Help - Confused about lifts

[Inline6]

I should of also said, your welcome to take a look at mine. Little to no lift and larger tires than your thinking.

 

[Hondarider]

When it comes to suspension components, I've spent tons of time modifying vehicles and Poly Performance is the company that I give my business to. That being said, if I were to do it all over again on a JKU with the intention of extensive travel. I'd leave the suspension bone stock.I drive around on 35s and there's really no reason for it. It's less enjoyable to drive than the stocker. My JKU on Rubicon 32s will go every where that I've gone in my lifted JK on 35s. Sure, it looks cooler, but it's got nothing to do with adventure. It's just a styling exercise. New JKs are arguably the most competent Jeeps ever built and guys were tackling the Rubicon on CJs 50 years ago. I'm betting that a little bit of driving skill will get you every where you ever want to go on stock suspension and tires. Just my $.02.

 

[Hill Bill E.]

I'm betting that a little bit of driving skill will get you every where you ever want to go on stock suspension and tires. Just my $.02.

Quoted for truth!

Seat Time on the trail, is the best mod you can do!!

JJ, I think you're on the right track, keeping the lift and tires 'small'

That will help maintain nice driving characteristics, and keep the COG low.


A 4 door JK needs a bit more lift, to increase the breakover angle. But with lockers and proper skids, you can drag over many obstacles.

As far as lifts, I've had experience with Iron Rock, Tera-Flex, Rough country, SkyJacker and Rubicon Express.

I've had bad luck with Rough Country springs 'settling' and loosing their lift.

Having good shocks will do the most for the ride, on and off road.

 

[nwoods]

.

So where are we rubbing vertically with the wheels turned with 1" taller tires and a 2"+ lift. Not to be a smart ***, but responding to a smart *** response. I think it might be assumed that taller tires means wider tires...not necessarily true?

Brad, my response was not meant as a smart *** response, I just figured that if I painted just enough of a picture for your to think it through, you would remember it longer and have a better appreciation for the geometry involved. Teach a man to fish.... etc.

On Jeep Wranglers, width is a partial factor, but not as significant as diameter. When dealing with diameter, front and rear tires can rub at the top of the wheel wells under full suspension compression if you bumpstops are not properly set, but this is usually not a huge issue. Tires can also rub when the suspension is fully articulated, (one wheel down, the opposite wheel stuff way up into the wheel well). This is a common issue, again can be tuned with bumpstops, but at the expense of travel and articulation. So if you provide wheel spacers, or rims with greater offsets, you can put the rubber out another inch or so and get that much more travel out of your suspension before the tires rub on the top of the wheel wells.

The third common potential rub is at the front wheels, on the inside frame rail or tub. With taller tires, when you turn the front wheels (steering), you can rub on the frame or tub. Compound this with a flexed out, fully articulated condition with one wheel stuffed way up AND turned, you run out of wheel well. Body lifts, spacers, etc... all help reduce this

Exhibit A: Front wheel is stuffed, but not quite rubbing. This truck runs 35"x12" "beefy" tires, with 1.25" spacers, a 4.5" lift, a 1" body lift, and AEV springs and bumpstops carefully tuned to prevent rubbing in just this condition. It can't be stuffed any further, but I had no problems turning or articulating to this extent

Same thing in the rear. Not quite rubbing, maximum stuffage

 

[Rancho]

goldenbeagle is your buddy Kane by chance?
If so I did the 2007 Ultimate Adventure with him across Texas.