Help Me On My Trailer Solar Setup

[dakota123]

Trying to piece together a solar setup here is what i have so far. What am i missing? What should i replace with what? Not sure what gauge wire i need and what type of fuses/where to run them.

250 Watt Panel:
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_270&products_id=3070

30a controller
http://www.amazon.com/Sun-YOBA-Char...words=30+amp+solar+controller#customerReviews

Battery
http://www.lowes.com/pd_599947-5065..._clickID=60fd4ad1-a005-4fd0-993a-d0084b6b7eb8

1000W Inverter
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-1000w-..._9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1460664410&sr=1-9

 

[calicamper]

Before you even map out parts. You need to understand your power needs.

My trailer system I targeted an estimated worse case of 8-10ah burn/ use and a typical 4-6ah burn during a 24hr solar cycle. Im on season 2 and its all good.

My set up all fits in the 50 caliber ammo box bolted to the trailer. Panels are set out in the sunny spots which is never the same camp to camp.

So whats your idea for what you'll run off the power system? Then people here can start giving you really good details on power needs vs gear that will meet your need.

My set up was about $200 all in panels, battery, fuse box, lights, charging station for small gear etc. No fridge!

 

[dakota123]

My main thing is keeping things under $300. I won't be running a fridge. Just charging up cameras, cell phones and blue tooth speaker as well as a few led flood lights and other lights. I would like to run a fridge sometime in the future so i don't want to limit my self and have to get a whole new setup when that happens.

I know absolutely very minimal about electrical and little to none about solar so I'm a complete noob with this stuff

 

[teotwaki]

It is not that complicated. It will be easier to start thinking of how much amperage you need over X hours and then how big of a solar system to recharge your battery over X hours of sunlight.

Lots of info in the EXPO-FAQ http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/60087-Solar-Power-FAQ

Also lots of knowledgeable people here to guide you. A good source of solar panels and other materials here: http://www.solarblvd.com/

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Like other said you need to get a better handle on power.
Based on your needs you have too much system and out of balance.
I figure 100AH of battery for ever 100Watts of solar
Your battery based on its size is a group 24 with ~55AH plenty big for your needs but undersized for 250Watts of solar

For your needs I would consider -
►A battery in your trailer and charge it while driving. Should do everything you want for a few days without recharging
►Portable power supply like a Duracell 600
►I also have Brunton Solaris 25 that will do what you need for $100

 

[calicamper]

My main thing is keeping things under $300. I won't be running a fridge. Just charging up cameras, cell phones and blue tooth speaker as well as a few led flood lights and other lights. I would like to run a fridge sometime in the future so i don't want to limit my self and have to get a whole new setup when that happens.

I know absolutely very minimal about electrical and little to none about solar so I'm a complete noob with this stuff

Thats what my need was. Though I knew fridge was never going to be an add on. My controller is a $30 amazon 20 amp max in or out controller. These were primarily designed for solar parking lot lighting. Where all the guts are mounted in a box on the pole, and self regulating etc. I've been really happy with the results. My project was also an intentional learning project for a much larger job.

The really bright ATV 6 LED flood lamp $12 amazon buy pulls 1amp. The 20ft string of cheapie weather proof LED strip is about 1 amp total pull when lit.

I bought a 12volt charging hub 2 12v sockets and 4 usb sockets which I plug into a plug tied to a simple 6 fuse fuse box. The fuse box is powered by the power side of the charge controller, to take advantage of the cut off feature and so we can track our usage etc. Thats where the 20 amp max limit sets your power limit if you use it like I did. Max I might pull 18 amps if every thing is on at the same time. I put a 15 amp inline fuse between the controller and my fuse box which powers all my various lights etc.

My larger project is a 8.2kwh house system. We generated 37kwhrs yesterday. Similar ideas just far more advanced and fancier. ;-)

 

[calicamper]

My basic details 20amp controller, 18amp hr deep cycle battery, 6 fuse box, small ground bar. All of that is mounted in my 50 call ammo box bolted to the trailer. The two Renogy 10watt panels I stow in boxes in the tounge box and set out in camp. I used the plugs the panels came with, removed the gator clips. So the controller has a simple wire harness with two plugs on it for the solar input using the plugs that came with the panels.

My LED lighting I use a cheap little water tight automotive style locking plugs. The charging hub, I picked up a RC helli battery connector leads and use that for plugging in my charging hub. When not in use, I disable the 24hr hot feature via the controller interface, and stow all the leads capped in the ammo box. Only wire exiting the box is a wire led to the rear mounted ATV flood. All other power is plugged in at camp, and the top of the ammo box is left cracked open with the cords exiting from under the lid.

The two 10watt panels give me 4-8 amps charge during the summer in coastal CA. Which keeps the basics happy. If we had heavy charging use lap tops, cameras etc I would go 40watts. Anything heavier and 80 -100watt panel and larger storage / battery.

My set up was also weight sensitive, its about 22lbs total added to the trailer. My group 31s on my boat are 38lb each..

 

[calicamper]

These systems are closed loop in the sense that you dont ground them. I used a ground bar to tie all the neg wires back to the neg feed on the output side of the controller. The pos side feeds the small fuse block. If you ground it to the trailer you either fry the controller, blow a fuse or your LEDs dont work. Its not the same as trailer tail lights where your grounding to the trailer. Also the solar panels and the LEDs are pos neg specific you need to check your connection with a meter to ensure your pos is pos and your neg is neg. One of my panels actually was reversed but I caught it when I tested the output prior to plugging it into anything.

 

[calicamper]

I also agree that battery size and panel size are related. Last summer we spent 6 days Eastern Sierras the little 18amp hour battery and two 10watt panels which never really had an ideal sunny spot all day kept two cell phones charged, a go pro, and I pad along with LED lighting supported all week no issues. I do put the battery on a house charger before we leave and when we return. The solar simply keeps the battery happy. Off season with the controller shut off no hot feed, I put it on a charger about every 4 weeks. Keeps it happy and healthy. Zero power feed from the tow car. I wanted it simple and isolated.

 

[dakota123]

I also agree that battery size and panel size are related. Last summer we spent 6 days Eastern Sierras the little 18amp hour battery and two 10watt panels which never really had an ideal sunny spot all day kept two cell phones charged, a go pro, and I pad along with LED lighting supported all week no issues. I do put the battery on a house charger before we leave and when we return. The solar simply keeps the battery happy. Off season with the controller shut off no hot feed, I put it on a charger about every 4 weeks. Keeps it happy and healthy. Zero power feed from the tow car. I wanted it simple and isolated.

Wow thanks for all that info I probably would have grounded it to the trailer to be honest haha. I know I won't necessarily be drawing that much off the battery overall for my current needs. But I'm the type of person that likes to have more in case i ever need it. So thats why i wanted to go with the 250 watt panel to begin with. Just need help knowing what would support that panel with relatively low cost if that makes sense.

 

[dakota123]

Like other said you need to get a better handle on power.
Based on your needs you have too much system and out of balance.
I figure 100AH of battery for ever 100Watts of solar
Your battery based on its size is a group 24 with ~55AH plenty big for your needs but undersized for 250Watts of solar

For your needs I would consider -
►A battery in your trailer and charge it while driving. Should do everything you want for a few days without recharging
►Portable power supply like a Duracell 600
►I also have Brunton Solaris 25 that will do what you need for $100

So correct me if I'm wrong. You are saying i need to go with two batteries at least? Would it make sense to stay with one battery now and add a second one when i find myself needing the full use out of solar panel? I feel like the 160 bucks for a 250 watt panel vs around the same for an 100watt or less wattage panel that it just makes more sense to go with the 250 watt first? But what do i know haha

 

[calicamper]

So correct me if I'm wrong. You are saying i need to go with two batteries at least? Would it make sense to stay with one battery now and add a second one when i find myself needing the full use out of solar panel? I feel like the 160 bucks for a 250 watt panel vs around the same for an 100watt or less wattage panel that it just makes more sense to go with the 250 watt first? But what do i know haha

The negative to solar. They produce power even if you dont need it. 250watt panel is big. Heck I have 285s on my house!

You can always add a panel but even 80watts would be excessive for what it sounds like you'll need.

 

[4x4junkie]

So correct me if I'm wrong. You are saying i need to go with two batteries at least? Would it make sense to stay with one battery now and add a second one when i find myself needing the full use out of solar panel? I feel like the 160 bucks for a 250 watt panel vs around the same for an 100watt or less wattage panel that it just makes more sense to go with the 250 watt first? But what do i know haha

FYI, the 250W solar panel you linked in your OP will not work effectively with the charge controller you linked. That panel requires you have a "MPPT" controller such as this Eco-Worthy unit to use it effectively on a 12-volt system. A PWM controller is best used with panels that have a max-power voltage (Vmp) rating between 17-18V (your 250W one is over 30 volts).

And yes, you will need more battery if you plan to run both a fridge and that big inverter for more than a minute or so at a time. My setup runs a fridge, LED lights, charging of the occasional phone, and playing the stereo, along with occasional charging of R/C vehicle batteries. It consists of 170W solar thru a SunSaver MPPT controller and two 90Ah Deka batteries (180Ah). It's proven to be about perfect size for my uses.

These systems are closed loop in the sense that you dont ground them. I used a ground bar to tie all the neg wires back to the neg feed on the output side of the controller. The pos side feeds the small fuse block. If you ground it to the trailer you either fry the controller, blow a fuse or your LEDs dont work. Its not the same as trailer tail lights where your grounding to the trailer. Also the solar panels and the LEDs are pos neg specific you need to check your connection with a meter to ensure your pos is pos and your neg is neg. One of my panels actually was reversed but I caught it when I tested the output prior to plugging it into anything.

I've yet to come across any solar controller that cannot be grounded to the vehicle (trailer) frame... It sounds like you had another issue that blew your fuses/prevented your LEDs from working (something touching against the positive connection would cause issues like you describe).

 

[calicamper]

Seems alot of these inexpensive charge controllers claim in their 'specs as "positive ground". Sort of confusing ??
What I believe they mean is "positive common". Of all positive terminals, (both input & outputs) are electrically common to each other.

( I assume its cheaper to manufacture. Design or components-wise ? )

Anyway, if battery negative is chassis grounded to accomodate car charging for example the controller load outputs and attached appliances must remain isolated from chassis.
Conversely, if battery were isolated. The load outputs could utilise a negative grounding wiring scheme.

Yep. I think this design is more due to the commercial application where these units are used by the 100's. Vs being used as cheap small power units on trailers.

 

[calicamper]

Im really happy how mine has turned out and the performance of the system. My wife thinks shes livin large with our LED lit tent and charging hub for devices. This and the Mr Buddy heater basically eliminated 90% of her complaints