Help NEEDED fast...ish

[FastGlass]

I posted this elsewhere too, but I need all the experience I can get on this stat, so:
....I'm in the process of ordering a Prorock 60 semi float rear and PR 44 unlimited front and the good folks at Northridge are talking of welding on some Synergy HD track bar brackets front and rear before sending them out to me. I have an AEV 4.5' RS to install...springs, high steer, Bilstein 5160 res shocks, but I'll be going Clayton for the long arms in the rear.
Anyhow....Can anyone help me figure something out here?
The AEV 4.5 RS provides a drag flip kit/high steer setup….right? This is to alter and raise the roll point? It also centers…or trys to..the axle assembly?
A bit confused here...
1)This synergy weld on bracket will work in conjunction with…or INSTEAD of the AEV system?
2)What does the Synergy one do that the AEV one doesn’t?
3)Would it be wise to add a beefed up tie rod (Syn HD), F+R track bar (are these included with AEV…if so, are they sufficient?), HD Sways, drag link etc while were mucking about down there?
4) “IF" I go Clayton LA's in the back…upper and lower…will the welded on Synergy bracket be in the way or work with this?
I don’t want to do this twice…
Im trying to get this in this weekend for their black friday deals...
Thank you all!

 

[BCobe]

Have you messaged Northridge with these questions?

I can look into some of the questions later on but maybe just have them forget the weld on brackets. Looks like AEVs are just a bolt on so if for some reason they do not work with the Clayton you can simply unbolt and change as necessary.

IMO be easier to go from bolt on to weld on rather than vise versa.

I know you do not want to do it twice but without any reasearch on the questions thats the fastest info I can give.
Maybe someone running a similar set up or knowledgeable on both systems will chime in!

 

[FastGlass]

Good morning BCobe,
Thanks for responding. Overnight, on the other forum, Northridge did respond.
Apparently the AEV bracketry works as needed, but only on a stock D44 diameter axle. The Dynatrac Prorock's are significantly oversized and as such, no longer would work. Hence the new weld on Synergy's with multiple mounting points for stabilizer etc...
As for the rest, it was suggested that yes, an upgraded Tie rod would be nice, but the tracbars provided in the AEV kit are fine unless Im looking for an adjustable version. JKS...Currie...there are options.
The synergy brecketry doesn't come into play or impede the use of the Clayton long arms if I were to go that route.

 

[BCobe]

Glad you were able to get it all sorted out. Sounds like you have a pretty legit build on your hands. Good luck!

 

[rlynch356]

here's a set for sale - http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=8976

 

[voodoojk]

Curious.. Why aev lift? If your going long arm, with pro rocks all you really want from the lift would be AEV Springs guessing?? I would just buy the springs then. Aev lifts are pretty much aimed at going on bone stock jeeps and using OEM components. And they work great. If your putting on pro rock 60's and such ditching brand new rubicon components you must be ready to do major rock crawling and/or hemi conversion to warrant the need for that and pretty much already outgrown the aev lift in my opinion. If you have the coin I would be doing coil overs myself. Or at least run full heavy duty components say from synergy or currie.

 

[FastGlass]

here's a set for sale - http://forum.aev-conversions.com/showthread.php?t=8976

What!? That's crazy! Is this guy seriously straight trading for Rubi axles?!

Curious.. Why aev lift? If your going long arm, with pro rocks all you really want from the lift would be AEV Springs guessing?? I would just buy the springs then. Aev lifts are pretty much aimed at going on bone stock jeeps and using OEM components. And they work great. If your putting on pro rock 60's and such ditching brand new rubicon components you must be ready to do major rock crawling and/or hemi conversion to warrant the need for that and pretty much already outgrown the aev lift in my opinion. If you have the coin I would be doing coil overs myself. Or at least run full heavy duty components say from synergy or currie.

I wish I could argue with you. Well, not really. But you're pretty spot on. If I thought I was going in this direction to begin with, I never would have started with a Rubicon. I'm not considering a Hemi swap, but I'll most likely be supercharging it. I wish I could just buy the springs, but I can't. I'm not building this SPECIFICALLY for HD crawling, but when I want to go, I'll have little reservations about taking a pretty heavy rig and doing so. I need the axles for the ability to handle all the weight and turning those 37's under load without issues. Like I said...Its overbuilt for its intended uses, but I'm fine with that. The long arms aren't needed. And I may not go that route. I would like the ability to push the rear axle back an inch or so, and the adjustability having LA's all around provide. I'd like the greater articulation they COULD provide, but the limiting factor for this application IS the AEV shocks as you've pointed out. Just not going to get the benefits until and unless I go with a different shock setup. Most people who crawl are using lighter (generally) "stubby" bumpers, are roofless and in two doors. I had a '10 , two door I was planning on building this way. Now it's a 4 door, hardtop only, with a rack, roof top tent, 220lbs of bumper, 100 lb winch, armor, extra gas, extra water, fridge , dual batteries etc etc....
Add my two 135 lb German Shepherds, camera equipment...and well, we're over 6k lbs grinding through the NE woods...
Yeah, might not be Moab....But it ain't walking either. Overbuilt for intended use. For sure. But at this point in time, I can. So, why not?

 

[voodoojk]

Basically , from someone who has "been there done that" I was just saying that before you buy a $2k+ lift, make sure you will/can use all the components of the lift to make it worth the money. I had to take off a bunch of good heavy duty aftermarket parts and go back to OEM control arms, drive shafts etc etc to make the aev lift work as designed.

 

[FastGlass]

Basically , from someone who has "been there done that" I was just saying that before you buy a $2k+ lift, make sure you will/can use all the components of the lift to make it worth the money. I had to take off a bunch of good heavy duty aftermarket parts and go back to OEM control arms, drive shafts etc etc to make the aev lift work as designed.

Thanks Voodoo. I definitely appreciate the input. What issues did you have regarding the driveshafts? It seems, At this point, that I'll be using most of this kit...of course, I'm saying that with it sitting in boxes in my living room. I'm skipping any long arms till I wheel it a bit as is. To use the high steer/drag link flip kit, I'll have to have the synergy version brackets welded onto the new axles (doing their tie rod while I'm at it too) as the tube diameters are different, though I'm being assured by Northridge4x4 that everything should work just fine with the rest of the AEV 4.5 setup and the Prorocks.

 

[rlynch356]

Apparently... that is what he is doing.. I'm sure there is some cash from the buyer involved but who knows.
I just scored a low miles take off lift from there for cheap.

 

[mrchips]

I have those exact axles in my 06 Rubi Unlimited, 5.38's/37's, you won't be sorry on spending that kind of coin, well worth it