Help Out a Noob: Should I buy this Tundra?

[Motoprof14]

Have no experience with builds, but plenty of interest and time. So, I'm thinking of getting this 2001 Tundra SR5 from a local dealer, asking $10,900. Hard to come by older Tundras in good nick around Iowa. Plus for me this has a shell, really good condition bodywork, interior is nice, clean, and it meets my needs (i.e., 3-4 week trips with my 8 year old son, sleep in the back, do dirt roads, Wyoming, Utah, etc, good times). But the vehicle has 150,000 miles on it: so here's my question: is that a bit too high? Can I expect a string of problems/maintenance in the next 50K miles? Are the things that I will need to change out the kind of things that need changing anyway as I gradually make the Tundra more expedition-worthy (i.e., better shocks, bigger tires)? Oh, and any stuff in particular I should have checked out on the vehicle before buying? Appreciate input, thanks!

Don't know how to insert pics so here's the link to the Tundra as advertised. And no, I'm not intending to advertise it - don't want anyone buying it from under me, tho I guess that could happen.

http://assets.clickmotive.com/inven...4a257f30da62037e8!20141127031556000.jpg?w=564

 

[Clutch]

What does the frame look like? Any rust?

 

[utroda]

Thats seem like a lot for a truck with 150,000 miles. I paid 9 for mine 4 years ago 1 owner with only 80,000 miles on it and complete paperwork on all work since they owned it. I would work them down for sure.

 

[Motoprof14]

I could not see any rust except underneath on the chassis, surface-type rust probably normal for this age truck and part of the country. I have not yet got to inspect under the hood. Will do tomorrow.

 

[TwoTrack]

I bought my 05 with 150k on it for 9800 in Orlando, FL. It's a little harder to find nice 4x4's here, almost every truck is 2wd. Mine was not as clean as you are describing but mechanically it had all service records and was well taken care of. These motors are very good. There were some issues with the early transmissions. I think you could expect to do timing belt and fluids in the next 50k. I'd check the steering rack for any signs of leaks. These are great trucks and the motors will run for a long time.

Check out tundrasolutions.com, you will find lots of help over there as well.

 

[cdthiker]

The truck is at the point in its life where you are going to need to sink money in to stuff like suspension front end etc. All wear and tear items.
These first gen trucks have the very stout 4.7 The last time I talked to my buddy with one he had over 250 k on and still running strong.
I worked for a company that beat the snot out of those old tundras in the high desert of utah. They just kept going.

Talk the dealer down and stick a few thousand away for preventive stuff. Take the truck to another shop and have them run a full pre purchase inspection on it. Easily worth the hundred bucks or so to know what is wrong with it. It gives you a great bartering chip and if all else fails you out some change but not neck deep into a truck
What it comes down to is you are talking about buying a truck that is almost 15 years old.
They are great rigs but just like every thing else as it gets long in the tooth it takes some care and money to keep it going

 

[Greenyota]

If you can do the install yourself replacing all the front end (UBJs, LBJs, inner & outer tierods, steering rack bushings, cv boots, shocks, and coils...etc) it should only cost around $1,000. I would say that should be done if you're going to take this thing on expedition off-road style trips considering it has 150,000 miles. Timing belt and water pump are going to need to be done again around 185,000 miles. I would talk the dealer down to sub 9,500 if you can.

 

[Motoprof14]

Thanks, guys, that's all very good advice. Will be sure to get the vehicle checked out by a third party, see what they say. I am not mechanically minded (or handed), so I need to be cautious and pass this one over, if need be.

 

[utroda]

Do they have service records for the truck?

 

[seanpistol]

Overpriced

 

[Derek24]

Right price for a dealer, private party would be around 7-8k. Actually here in CA you could get that price private party, damn toyotas out here add another $1k easy. Like others said check records and see how low they will go. Offer them 9k for it, might say no at first but it high priced so it's not going anywhere. But if you like it and going to keep it for a long time, it will last, then go for it. If they are hard to come by out there then act fast!

 

[cdthiker]

Thanks, guys, that's all very good advice. Will be sure to get the vehicle checked out by a third party, see what they say. I am not mechanically minded (or handed), so I need to be cautious and pass this one over, if need be.

The great part about that third party is they can hand you a list of things that may need done, do need to be done etc.

I bought a 95 4runner knowing i was going to need to put some work into it after I got it. That third part check up earned me a 1300 dollar barter chip.
if the dealer does not want to do it walk away
It is really simple tell them you will pay for it, and that you have no skill set or know how on this truck. You understand that they ran it through their shop but they are trying to sell a product.... Dont even talk price with them in till this has been done.

 

[Stone_Blue]

motoprof,
Go to www.toyota.com, sign up as an owner (free), and put in the VIN. You should be able to look up all the service records for stuff ever done by any Toyota Dealership.

I would ask the dealer if the following Recalls/TSBs have been done, and if they need to be done:

-Frame replacement (safety recall)
-front Lower Ball Joint replacement (not sure if this was a recall or TSB)
-front caliper upgrade (TSB)
-rear drum upgrade (TSB)

Also find out if the timing belt and water pump were ever done. Toyota suggests 90K intervals on those, so you are only 30k from what should be the SECOND replacement. (DONT let the dealer push you into having it done though...Just find out if it can be verified that it HAS been done, and if not, use it as a point to negotiate lower price...Its about a $1200-$1400 job if done by a dealer, IIRC)

Also inspect the two transmission lines going into the bottom of the radiator for corrosion. See if you can find out if the radiator or tranny have ever been replaced. Check the radiator cap and coolant reservoir for orange looking foam. The fittings in the bottom of the radiators are known for corroding, thus dumping ATF into the cooling system. If not repaired and flushed, the loss of AFT from the tranny could cause tranny replacement/rebuild.

I would drop the spare tire, get underneath, and run your hands up along the inside of the spare tire frame crossmember, looking for excessive rust, or possibly holes. This is one of the main areas that justify frame replacement. The "X" crossmember collects water and debris, (its dished UPWARDS..:rolleyes), and if excessive rust happens, there is a danger of the spare tire and winch falling off, So check close around the winch.

That pretty much covers any of the major issues with that year.

Good Luck!

PS- Nice truck...I have a 2000, also Sunfire Red Pearl...I wish mine looked that good...Plus wish I had the color matched cap this one has.

 

[RoadPhysicist]

Even though you gave it a once over for rust, do watch out for the frame rust recall. If it's a Toyota dealer they should be aware of it:

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/toyota-frame-rust-recall-only-partial-fix/

It wasn't an issue for me buying a used 2004 Tacoma that had spent all of its life in the Rocky Mountain West. However, I've asked about it in Toyota dealerships across the country and been told it's a real problem anywhere where a truck's driven on roads that are heavily salted in winter. Structural damage serious enough to cause safety problems may not be distinguishable from cosmetic issues with a casual inspection. The recall mitigation work is only done in states where it's an issue, so check out the truck's history.

 

[onemanarmy]

motoprof,
Go to www.toyota.com, sign up as an owner (free), and put in the VIN. You should be able to look up all the service records for stuff ever done by any Toyota Dealership.

I would ask the dealer if the following Recalls/TSBs have been done, and if they need to be done:

-Frame replacement (safety recall)
-front Lower Ball Joint replacement (not sure if this was a recall or TSB)
-front caliper upgrade (TSB)
-rear drum upgrade (TSB)

Also find out if the timing belt and water pump were ever done. Toyota suggests 90K intervals on those, so you are only 30k from what should be the SECOND replacement. (DONT let the dealer push you into having it done though...Just find out if it can be verified that it HAS been done, and if not, use it as a point to negotiate lower price...Its about a $1200-$1400 job if done by a dealer, IIRC)

Also inspect the two transmission lines going into the bottom of the radiator for corrosion. See if you can find out if the radiator or tranny have ever been replaced. Check the radiator cap and coolant reservoir for orange looking foam. The fittings in the bottom of the radiators are known for corroding, thus dumping ATF into the cooling system. If not repaired and flushed, the loss of AFT from the tranny could cause tranny replacement/rebuild.

I would drop the spare tire, get underneath, and run your hands up along the inside of the spare tire frame crossmember, looking for excessive rust, or possibly holes. This is one of the main areas that justify frame replacement. The "X" crossmember collects water and debris, (its dished UPWARDS..:rolleyes), and if excessive rust happens, there is a danger of the spare tire and winch falling off, So check close around the winch.

That pretty much covers any of the major issues with that year.

Good Luck!

PS- Nice truck...I have a 2000, also Sunfire Red Pearl...I wish mine looked that good...Plus wish I had the color matched cap this one has.

Fantastic advice/post