Help with 7.3 DIY airbox/intake fab. ideas?

FEDUPWBS

Observer
So today we had the intake piping off the 03 E-350 today installing regulated return and bowl delete and found the intake pipes fairly (nasty!) dirty. Turbo still looks fine but the stock air box isn't cutting it and has to go asap. I have searched for hours on mods and or pics but have found NOTHING. If anybody has pictures of a DIY or available option or a link please share with the rest of the world here.
Jeff
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
I know this has been talked about on the sportsmobileforum.com and I think a powerstroke forum or some ford forum also had info on this...
 

2.8rsr

New member
I've searched around as well, here are a few links. The people that seem to actually take on this project with pictures are doing other mods as well like adding an intercooler and/or the fuel bowl delete/regulated return.

A guy in the first post said he made one but needed the fuel bowl/regulated return to give him enough room to get the 4" pipe over the HPOP.

However, in the second post a guy stated that an intake manufacturer researched and mocked up an intake for us but found the improvements to be negligible and shelved the project. This could have also been demand driven as there are a lot more 7.3 pickups than vans.

I read somewhere on the forums in my search that someone fit a Ford AIS intake from a truck in their van but I never saw proof in pictures.


http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/e-series-van-discussion/21437-air-intake-02-e350-w-7-3l.html

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/air-intake-diy-not-diy-305518/
 

cem17

New member
Some of the clips on my air box were broken off or not sealing well and, as a result, my turbo was gone. It is pretty pricey for a new box. An open intake seemed more cost effective and opened up room for a coolant filter next to the overflow bottle. That is, once I moved the battery to the frame.

I ended up using 22deg and 45 deg elbows and 2 straight pieces of less than 12" (I believe). I had to make a z bracket to move the (ford updated) intake to turbo boot slightly. I used an amsoil filter (there is also a kn type). Model Eau4091 or KN RC5102, these have a stud on the top of the filter which was used to hold it down. It is a little tight but worked out pretty good.

Since I had big holes cut in my fenders for intersection lights (ambulance), I buggered out as big of a hole as I could in the inner fender and had a couple of louvered plates made to cover the holes on the fenders. I still have to finish the shield to block the engine heat.

Results: I couldn't tell you if you really gain that much performance as I replaced the turbo (1.0 A/R), deleted EBPV, replaced leaking uppipes, wrapped all the pipes, added a HP Oil crossover...and a bunch of other maintenance items.

It did open up a lot of space in the engine compartment which is nice for working on and lots of room for sound deadening. The turbo noise did increase but its not that bad.
 

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FEDUPWBS

Observer
cem17 VERY NICE. I have just installed a bowl delete and regulated return. thinking hood scoop and shaker style air box giving great ram and cool air . Should look good considering I have the UJOR 8" and 37's so the van already looks over the top. Great pics your idea is doable and very inspiring. Do you have pics of the reroute of the wire harness by chance?
 

FEDUPWBS

Observer
rsr2.8 I'm thinking of something similar to your link like blizzardvan built. Thanks for the info and please keep it coming if anyone has additional thoughts.
 

FEDUPWBS

Observer
Cem17, where did you get the amsoil filter and how much was it? Your setup seems the most logical and with a small turbo hoodscoop and a solid attempt to isolate the area like you did with the baffle should work well for me. Can you post a pic with the baffle installed and wiring of the battery relocation please?
 

cem17

New member
FEDUPWBS, I got the filter from Amsoil directly, I also got the prefilter. The heat shield is still unfinished. Ultimately, it will bolt to the base of the battery tray (tray itself is removed). The air temperature sensor will plug into the shield, but looks like it may need to be extended an inch or two. I have a power post in the way (maybe ambulance specific?) and didn't want to rush it in before I began a 40 day project assignment.

Between the battery tray mount and the shield (with some hoodliner) it should do ok at blocking heat. The intake tubing will still heat up because of engine heat though.

As for my wiring, I bought a oem battery box off ebay and mounted it to the frame rail next to my existing twin 6v golf cart batteries in a cabinet. Each set is fused and wired to a high amp switch, battery monitor, and solar. The ambulance likely has a few differences. The wiring is pretty simple, move a couple of grounds add a power post next the radiator (if there isn't one), and run a heavy gauge back to the battery. I used 00 welding cable for everything major. Its a good opportunity to reorganize your energy management and security. Sorry no pics at the moment.
 

cem17

New member
Ya, I was going to forward that link to siliconintakes. You might want to try a silicon 45 elbow instead of metal. It should give you a little more wiggle room.

Good time for a kill switch or two.
 

FEDUPWBS

Observer
The regulated return and bowl delete opened up a considerable amount of room (for a van) for the new intake pipe. Just received the new battery box from ebay today so will start the battery move soon. Going to install several addition guages like pre and pots compressor temp, inlet air temp, ambient temp and underhood temp as well as pre turbo vacuum. Will see if this mod was really worth the time and hassle considering what must be done to accomplish it.
Is there any interest in a limited run partial kit specifically a mandrel bent tube and parts list etc. Possibly cold air box panels?
This is a major mod unless you already have the bowl delete and relocated battery.
 

chasespeed

Explorer
Unique Metal Products.... check it out.. canister based around the big donaldson filter.

Or check donaldsons site.... there are options for that filter in a plastic housing designed for construction equipment....

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

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