IBS - Intelligent Battery Systems now available from Sierra Expeditions

[flyingwil]

Out of the ones I have used, I like the IBS the best.

 

[fire931]

I really like this system as well however I'm having a hard time justifying the cost of it versus some other options.. I will be running a very customized battery location/setup in my rig so other than the controller and relay the rest would probably go unused.

 

[rain76king]

Installed mine easily, clean and has been 100% worry free. Also let me know when one of my batteries was on the fritz.
It's a great package, everything needed to do the install was there.

 

[wesel123]

Sorry I have to say it. AWESOME product but the name has got to go. Someone at work was looking over my shoulder and asked if I had "Irritable Bowel Syndrome" :sombrero:

 

[flyingwil]

Sorry I have to say it. AWESOME product but the name has got to go. Someone at work was looking over my shoulder and asked if I had "Irritable Bowel Syndrome" :sombrero:

Yeah I was thinking the same thing the other day. Its Intelligent Battery Systems.

 

[Dave 2000]

Just a casual enquiry to whoever has the experience to answer. I intend to fit a dual battery controller into my UK spec Landcuiser 80 I am a bit wary of electronics when used in hostile environments hence the use of the all mechanical 80. I have researched the marine versions of various controllers which I like for their ability to be manually overridden at the press of a button on the actual unit but also want the display of battery condition. I had considered mixing theNational Luna dual display (not controller) with the marine solenoids when I came across the IBS system, (I agree with whoever pointed out the name could have been better :elkgrin anyway, the IBS appears to have it all untill I read up on the unit, it seems to have the 'best' system you now need three relays or two relays and a relay booster module which looks like a relay, why?

I like the KISS principal and it seems that the additions are simply making up for the weakness of the original solenoid, perhaps a heavier relay would make the other units redundant?

Also, does the IBS LED display stay on whilst you are driving so you can monitor the batteries or do you have to press a button to see what is happening with the individual batteries?

Thanks in advance for any input, I like to be as informed as possible about pro's and con's of various systems.

regards

Dave

 

[alan]

Sorry for late reply, I do believe TJM supplied there own relay which looks very similar but had a problem of burning out, I'm sure if Beat from IBS is supplying them then there would be no problem.

T-max also re-badges them as well.

Alan, from our research the new kits include a different relay with safe working loads of 200Amps and capable of spikes to 500A. In testing, we had no issues with the relay testing under load (winching, jump starting others, Etc..) so this leads me to ask if your relay was the same style as shown above or if it was the older style relay without the uC?

 

[flyingwil]

Just a casual enquiry to whoever has the experience to answer. I intend to fit a dual battery controller into my UK spec Landcuiser 80 I am a bit wary of electronics when used in hostile environments hence the use of the all mechanical 80. I have researched the marine versions of various controllers which I like for their ability to be manually overridden at the press of a button on the actual unit but also want the display of battery condition. I had considered mixing theNational Luna dual display (not controller) with the marine solenoids when I came across the IBS system, (I agree with whoever pointed out the name could have been better :elkgrin anyway, the IBS appears to have it all untill I read up on the unit, it seems to have the 'best' system you now need three relays or two relays and a relay booster module which looks like a relay, why?

The RBM (Relay Booster Module) performs a Link Start from the auxiliary battery even if the starter battery has failed completely. RBM fits into the wiring of the IBS 200Amp relay. RBM improves the link start support to 100%, if sufficient charge is still available in the auxiliary battery.

In the case of a deep discharge of the starter battery (start up of engine from starter battery is no longer possible), the "Link" button on the IBS battery monitor (IBS-DBS/BM3 or DBi-DBS) is pressed. With the support from the RBM at starter battery voltage below 10V the start of the engine from the Auxiliary Battery (AUX) would be activated.

In very cold weather or when starting capacity is reduced the RBM supports the relay to make sure the contacts stay properly closed during link start, this extends the relay life.

We carry only the new IBS Battery Monitors (with uC Technology) in our kits. These monitors are equipped with a low battery alarm on both batteries. If this alarm starts to sound, then check your battery system before further traveling. If doing so the risk of having battery problems is very small and RBM is only there if things go totally wrong.

I like the KISS principal and it seems that the additions are simply making up for the weakness of the original solenoid, perhaps a heavier relay would make the other units redundant?

The RBM module is simply an add-on for those with too much wiring on the main battery. If you think of it like a capacitor to trigger the relay, it might make more sense. The relay (solenoid as your calling it) is capable of 500amps.

Also, does the IBS LED display stay on whilst you are driving so you can monitor the batteries or do you have to press a button to see what is happening with the individual batteries?

On the IBS Battery Monitor there is a display button, this button will adjust the brightness of the LED's and also enable the battery voltage lights to illuminate for a preset time (I think 60 seconds). The charge and status LED's are the only ones that stay illuminated while driving, these are also dimmable by the display button. I found that you get a good grasp simply by the status LED's, and the alarm will trigger if anything goes wrong.

Hope that helps you out Dave.... let me know if you have any other questions, or feel free to give us a call and we can discuss the IBS vs. National Luna vs Ironman, etc...

 

[Dave 2000]

OK thanks for your reply, I will make up my mind at a later date. I would have liked to have had the facility to keep the display on whilst driving but I suppose it is of little use if the batteries are parallel anyway as they would probably show the same reading.

Some friends (well 26) had thought about a group buy from a supplier here in Spain but despite making attempts to buy even the outlet has not responded, a bit worrying.

Thanks again anyway

regards

Dave

 

[assafde]

I realize it's a relative old post, but I was wondering if someone encountered the same phenomena.
I drive a 2001 Land Rover Discovery TD5.
My setup includes two batteries, main is a 100A Caterpillar battery, AUX is a yellow Optima.
The DBS reads perfectly the true volt reading as on my NANOCOM and the same values with a Fluke devise.

The issue is with the "Charge scale" which reads a different voltage from the Main battery voltage which being charges directly from the alternator.
The system is 2 years old, and was working fine up to 3 months ago.

All DBS wiring is 50mm wires thick, all "controlling" wiring are connected directly to batteries leads.

1. While the alternator charge the main battery for 13.6 Volts, the DBS "charge scale" shows 13.0 volts only.
2. While the alternator charge the main battery for 13.2 Volts, the DBS "charge scale" shows Nothing!!! I need to force it to go back to "auto" mode, only then the 13 volt LED on the "charge scale" is lit.
Any ideas if unit is faulty?
How can I use the warranty?

 

[flyingwil]

I realize it's a relative old post, but I was wondering if someone encountered the same phenomena.
I drive a 2001 Land Rover Discovery TD5.
My setup includes two batteries, main is a 100A Caterpillar battery, AUX is a yellow Optima.
The DBS reads perfectly the true volt reading as on my NANOCOM and the same values with a Fluke devise.

The issue is with the "Charge scale" which reads a different voltage from the Main battery voltage which being charges directly from the alternator.
The system is 2 years old, and was working fine up to 3 months ago.

All DBS wiring is 50mm wires thick, all "controlling" wiring are connected directly to batteries leads.

1. While the alternator charge the main battery for 13.6 Volts, the DBS "charge scale" shows 13.0 volts only.
2. While the alternator charge the main battery for 13.2 Volts, the DBS "charge scale" shows Nothing!!! I need to force it to go back to "auto" mode, only then the 13 volt LED on the "charge scale" is lit.
Any ideas if unit is faulty?
How can I use the warranty?

Sorry for the delayed response. First thing I would try is to unplug the battery monitor (either a Deutch or black round connector) and then re-plug it back in. at this point it should come back on if not, let us know.