Offroad Adventurer
New member
Maps of the Northern Cape, South Africa, date back to the early 1800 and since this time prospectors have explored the mountains and analysed the geology hoping to find the gold at the end of the rainbow. For most, the pot of gold has been elusive and very few prospectors have been able to eck out a living.
People like J. de Villiers, P. Sohnge, Solly Rupping, Daniels, Jack Otto and many more tried to find diamonds and gold.
Mr Niewoudt found 3.5 tons of copper at the Fanning mine and James Alexander after whom Alexander Bay was named found copper near the Orange River, near Sanddrif and shipped 350 tons of copper to Britain in 1836/37.
Jan de Vries moved to the area around 1921 and legend has it that he would disappear into the mountains with his donkeys and prospecting pan and would regularly return with gold. Jan is purported to be the only successful gold prospector in the Northern Cape.
I have visited the area over 120 times and have followed many of the trails. Recently I sat around a fire with some friends talking about the prospectors and their routes. Being fascinated with the area and the history I embarked on yet another adventure to follow the route that the early prospectors would have taken when they headed north.
Having traversed this area many times and having spent more than a year and a half (cumulative) exploring in the area I invited some Land Rover enthusiasts to join me on this expedition. I usually travel with three vehicles (or alone) but this time I decided to share the experience with some other 4x4 enthusiasts. Believing that Landy’s look the part and after a selection process for both vehicles and drivers I had my expedition team. The team consisted of members of both the 4x4 Offroad Adventure Club and the Cape Land Rover Club.
Many emails later the day dawned. We were to meet on a Saturday morning north of Springbok. Some of us travelled up on the Friday evening and met up after midnight with Kevin and Buzzy. They had left earlier in the day and had promised coffee and a big fire to welcome us but they were asleep when we arrived and there was no fire beckoning.
Early the next morning we met up with the other expedition members and so started our trip through the mountains.
The final expedition team was made up of:
Greg & Dirk Tdi 90
Matthew & Paul Tdi 90
John & Rob Td5 90
Kevin Tdi 110
John Little & James Td5 110
Leon Td5 110 DC
Buzzy Disco V8
Niel Disco V8
It had been raining in Cape Town when we left and the night was cold. Andy Brown had been in Namaqualand a week before and had called me to tell me that they had 47 degrees Celsius temperatures every day.
We woke early and had some coffee, the steam rising in the early morning chill.
After check we had only left footprints we left the bush camp and met up with the other expedition members.
We turned North West and followed an old track I had driven before. I wanted to show the team an old mine I had found years previously. We travelled down a valley, dust hanging in the air. The radio blurted “Please keep up, keep an eye on the vehicle behind you…”
Rob and I explored every mine shaft we could find and when one considers that people worked in these confined, almost claustrophobic mines with only natural ventilation and 45 degree ambient heat it could not have been fun. The resident bats were uncertain of the intruders and dropped off their perches on the ceiling and took up refuge in other dark tunnels.
Our next stop was yet another abandoned mine. The granite blocks stand forlorn and forgotten, cut free from the granite face. At the top of the hill overlooking the mine you can see for 30 kilometers and distant claims can be seen against the horizon.
The tracks zigzag West and we use available river beds to form our sand highway. Little used tracks carry us in the direction that the prospectors would have taken. Looking at the maps it seemed like we might be able to descend the escarpment. The team descend onto the track and a kilometer further the track ended at a “veepos”. We retraced our tracks and followed a well used track to the south. More detours and we were finally on the old “twee spoor” again.
We had been driving all day following tracks that have not been used for years. We descend into a wide valley and I recognised a smooth rock outcrop in the eastern end of the valley. Water must have flowed down the valley many years ago and created the giant, now desicated “bum slide”.
Once in the valley we again turned in the direction that the prospectors would have traversed with their donkeys. The sun was sinking rapidly and it was time to make camp.
On the Northern side of the valley we saw a perfect bush camp. High up the slope, overlooking the whole valley. We detoured from our compass bearing and turned across the valley. Slipping into low range we made our way up to the platform where we would camp the night.
Although perched at a slight angle the site was perfect. The fire was soon burning as tents were erected.
The night was warm, the silence broken by Jackal calls and by 10pm we were all asleep.
The next day became the highlight of the trip. I had entered waypoints which I had hoped would assist us in finding the prospectors route and soon we were driving through high grass which reminded me of our expedition to search for the Lost City of the Kalahari. No one had driven these tracks for many, many years.
We crossed a ridge and started descending slowly down tracks eroded almost 1 m deep. We then passed a well kept but abandoned pink farm house. The track turned North West and in the distance we saw a wind pump in the middle of a shimmering pan. Cattle stood around the concrete dam in the pan, but no people or farmsteads could be seen. We stopped and took a group photo and then moved on.
Our next surprise were the red “Kalahari” dunes. We followed another feint track which zigzagged through the dunes. One feint track led to another and soon we found ourselves on one of the roads leading to Eksteensfontein. Niel’s fuel was low and so we detoured into Eksteensfontein for petrol.
There is no garage in Eksteensfontein and a local, Mr Denis Farmer sells petrol in 5 litre containers from his home. Petrol for the desperate costs R12 per litre and Niel paid with a smile.
Matthew and I found a shop, run out of a domestic garage by a Pakistani, “sleeper cell?”
It was in the low 40’s when we left town and followed another river bed. No maintenance is done to wind pumps and concrete dams and soon we came across a wind pump spewing fresh water onto the ground. We stopped and had a makeshift shower. It was hot in the valley with the hot wind sucking all the moisture out of your body.
A short way further we saw Steenbok running from their shady hides, their midday siesta disturbed by the vehicles.
We found a wide river bank and decided that that was the night stop. Shade overwhelmed our camp as the sun moved West.
We heard Jackals again once darkness fell. We listened to the sounds and watched the sky for falling stars. There was no wind blowing and the sparks from the fire flew skyward.
The next morning we made an early start and headed up the valley.
We saw Jackals again, I guess the same ones who had yelped the night before. There were more animals than I had ever seen in the area. Steenbok, Rhebok, Jackals, snakes, mice and scorpions. A local menagerie!
While climbing a very steep and eroded pass Matthew reported a “noise”. Kevin and Leon listened and we move forward again. More noise and then a LOUD noise as the front diff housing had been holed by a bit of metal. Leon and John got to work and soon the prop shaft was off, the diff disabled and the half shafts pulled out sufficiently to disengage the spline. Matthew continued in 2 wheel drive and had to get some help “here and there” on the ascents.
We descended about 600 meters into the valley. Suddenly the cel phones beeped and we had signal in this wilderness. To the West I was sure I could see the sea and more to the North lay Bloeddrif. We passed some spectacular rock outcrops before turning into a river bed for our last night.
Matthew elected to turn for home with the broken diff and he took the first road to Springbok.
The river valley which was our camp has steep sides and is really beautiful. We had taken lots of wood and once again the fire was crackling in the night.
For the first time on our expedition we had scorpions appearing from their burrows and approaching the fire, tails cocked. We donned boots and kept an eye out for the little critters.
As we finished eating Buzzy produced a Woolworths Chocolate Moose for desert, a reminder of a previous trip six or seven years ago. Woolworths Chocolate Moose in the Richtersveld – Bloody Awesome - thanks Buzzy.
Tuesday morning, our last day we visited Tierhoek and climbed between the boulders, taking photographs and just exploring. The Tierhoek campsite forms part of the World Heritage Site and we were amused to see the whole brick long drop laying precariously at 30 degrees having sunk into the whole. We laughed about what the occupant had eaten to cause this devastation.
I entered the next waypoint and we traversed almost 30 kilometers of tracks before entering Spitskloof to see the caves. After a quick snack we left the kloof via a narrow track. Next stop Port Nolloth.
Once we said our goodbyes at the tar road we each went our own way, some to Port Nolloth, some to Springbok and some straight home.
Another wonderful time in the wilderness with some great people and of course our 4x4’s.
People like J. de Villiers, P. Sohnge, Solly Rupping, Daniels, Jack Otto and many more tried to find diamonds and gold.
Mr Niewoudt found 3.5 tons of copper at the Fanning mine and James Alexander after whom Alexander Bay was named found copper near the Orange River, near Sanddrif and shipped 350 tons of copper to Britain in 1836/37.
Jan de Vries moved to the area around 1921 and legend has it that he would disappear into the mountains with his donkeys and prospecting pan and would regularly return with gold. Jan is purported to be the only successful gold prospector in the Northern Cape.
I have visited the area over 120 times and have followed many of the trails. Recently I sat around a fire with some friends talking about the prospectors and their routes. Being fascinated with the area and the history I embarked on yet another adventure to follow the route that the early prospectors would have taken when they headed north.
Having traversed this area many times and having spent more than a year and a half (cumulative) exploring in the area I invited some Land Rover enthusiasts to join me on this expedition. I usually travel with three vehicles (or alone) but this time I decided to share the experience with some other 4x4 enthusiasts. Believing that Landy’s look the part and after a selection process for both vehicles and drivers I had my expedition team. The team consisted of members of both the 4x4 Offroad Adventure Club and the Cape Land Rover Club.
Many emails later the day dawned. We were to meet on a Saturday morning north of Springbok. Some of us travelled up on the Friday evening and met up after midnight with Kevin and Buzzy. They had left earlier in the day and had promised coffee and a big fire to welcome us but they were asleep when we arrived and there was no fire beckoning.
Early the next morning we met up with the other expedition members and so started our trip through the mountains.
The final expedition team was made up of:
Greg & Dirk Tdi 90
Matthew & Paul Tdi 90
John & Rob Td5 90
Kevin Tdi 110
John Little & James Td5 110
Leon Td5 110 DC
Buzzy Disco V8
Niel Disco V8
It had been raining in Cape Town when we left and the night was cold. Andy Brown had been in Namaqualand a week before and had called me to tell me that they had 47 degrees Celsius temperatures every day.
We woke early and had some coffee, the steam rising in the early morning chill.
After check we had only left footprints we left the bush camp and met up with the other expedition members.
We turned North West and followed an old track I had driven before. I wanted to show the team an old mine I had found years previously. We travelled down a valley, dust hanging in the air. The radio blurted “Please keep up, keep an eye on the vehicle behind you…”
Rob and I explored every mine shaft we could find and when one considers that people worked in these confined, almost claustrophobic mines with only natural ventilation and 45 degree ambient heat it could not have been fun. The resident bats were uncertain of the intruders and dropped off their perches on the ceiling and took up refuge in other dark tunnels.
Our next stop was yet another abandoned mine. The granite blocks stand forlorn and forgotten, cut free from the granite face. At the top of the hill overlooking the mine you can see for 30 kilometers and distant claims can be seen against the horizon.
The tracks zigzag West and we use available river beds to form our sand highway. Little used tracks carry us in the direction that the prospectors would have taken. Looking at the maps it seemed like we might be able to descend the escarpment. The team descend onto the track and a kilometer further the track ended at a “veepos”. We retraced our tracks and followed a well used track to the south. More detours and we were finally on the old “twee spoor” again.
We had been driving all day following tracks that have not been used for years. We descend into a wide valley and I recognised a smooth rock outcrop in the eastern end of the valley. Water must have flowed down the valley many years ago and created the giant, now desicated “bum slide”.
Once in the valley we again turned in the direction that the prospectors would have traversed with their donkeys. The sun was sinking rapidly and it was time to make camp.
On the Northern side of the valley we saw a perfect bush camp. High up the slope, overlooking the whole valley. We detoured from our compass bearing and turned across the valley. Slipping into low range we made our way up to the platform where we would camp the night.
Although perched at a slight angle the site was perfect. The fire was soon burning as tents were erected.
The night was warm, the silence broken by Jackal calls and by 10pm we were all asleep.
The next day became the highlight of the trip. I had entered waypoints which I had hoped would assist us in finding the prospectors route and soon we were driving through high grass which reminded me of our expedition to search for the Lost City of the Kalahari. No one had driven these tracks for many, many years.
We crossed a ridge and started descending slowly down tracks eroded almost 1 m deep. We then passed a well kept but abandoned pink farm house. The track turned North West and in the distance we saw a wind pump in the middle of a shimmering pan. Cattle stood around the concrete dam in the pan, but no people or farmsteads could be seen. We stopped and took a group photo and then moved on.
Our next surprise were the red “Kalahari” dunes. We followed another feint track which zigzagged through the dunes. One feint track led to another and soon we found ourselves on one of the roads leading to Eksteensfontein. Niel’s fuel was low and so we detoured into Eksteensfontein for petrol.
There is no garage in Eksteensfontein and a local, Mr Denis Farmer sells petrol in 5 litre containers from his home. Petrol for the desperate costs R12 per litre and Niel paid with a smile.
Matthew and I found a shop, run out of a domestic garage by a Pakistani, “sleeper cell?”
It was in the low 40’s when we left town and followed another river bed. No maintenance is done to wind pumps and concrete dams and soon we came across a wind pump spewing fresh water onto the ground. We stopped and had a makeshift shower. It was hot in the valley with the hot wind sucking all the moisture out of your body.
A short way further we saw Steenbok running from their shady hides, their midday siesta disturbed by the vehicles.
We found a wide river bank and decided that that was the night stop. Shade overwhelmed our camp as the sun moved West.
We heard Jackals again once darkness fell. We listened to the sounds and watched the sky for falling stars. There was no wind blowing and the sparks from the fire flew skyward.
The next morning we made an early start and headed up the valley.
We saw Jackals again, I guess the same ones who had yelped the night before. There were more animals than I had ever seen in the area. Steenbok, Rhebok, Jackals, snakes, mice and scorpions. A local menagerie!
While climbing a very steep and eroded pass Matthew reported a “noise”. Kevin and Leon listened and we move forward again. More noise and then a LOUD noise as the front diff housing had been holed by a bit of metal. Leon and John got to work and soon the prop shaft was off, the diff disabled and the half shafts pulled out sufficiently to disengage the spline. Matthew continued in 2 wheel drive and had to get some help “here and there” on the ascents.
We descended about 600 meters into the valley. Suddenly the cel phones beeped and we had signal in this wilderness. To the West I was sure I could see the sea and more to the North lay Bloeddrif. We passed some spectacular rock outcrops before turning into a river bed for our last night.
Matthew elected to turn for home with the broken diff and he took the first road to Springbok.
The river valley which was our camp has steep sides and is really beautiful. We had taken lots of wood and once again the fire was crackling in the night.
For the first time on our expedition we had scorpions appearing from their burrows and approaching the fire, tails cocked. We donned boots and kept an eye out for the little critters.
As we finished eating Buzzy produced a Woolworths Chocolate Moose for desert, a reminder of a previous trip six or seven years ago. Woolworths Chocolate Moose in the Richtersveld – Bloody Awesome - thanks Buzzy.
Tuesday morning, our last day we visited Tierhoek and climbed between the boulders, taking photographs and just exploring. The Tierhoek campsite forms part of the World Heritage Site and we were amused to see the whole brick long drop laying precariously at 30 degrees having sunk into the whole. We laughed about what the occupant had eaten to cause this devastation.
I entered the next waypoint and we traversed almost 30 kilometers of tracks before entering Spitskloof to see the caves. After a quick snack we left the kloof via a narrow track. Next stop Port Nolloth.
Once we said our goodbyes at the tar road we each went our own way, some to Port Nolloth, some to Springbok and some straight home.
Another wonderful time in the wilderness with some great people and of course our 4x4’s.
