Jakes Wacky LS Swapped, Straight Axled, Coilovered, Airbagged '87 F250 Build

[frozenmoustache]

Last week I went about removing all of the loose rust from the frame, because I'm too cheap to buy a sandblaster I figured I would just be able to wire wheel the whole thing in a couple hours. That turned into a couple days, which turned into a week. Mostly because we had to work a bunch of overtime at my shop. So I actually hadn't been down to work on the truck since Tuesday.

Tuesday the frame went from looking like this

To this

About halfway through doing the other side, I found a stripping disk meant for preparing metal for paint. I figured I'd see how it compared to the wire wheel. It was much better. And considering I'm planning on using POR-15 to re-coat the frame, I need as bare metal as I can get.

Here's how the stripping disk compared to the wire wheel.

So that meant that I had to go back over all of the previously wire wheeled areas and hit them with the disk. Fortunately I was able to finish it tonight. Tomorrow I get to tackle filling in all of those little (and big) holes that are riddled throughout the frame of this thing.

 

[frozenmoustache]

It has been so hot that progress has slowed down significantly. Hopefully this heat breaks soon and I can get some real progress done. Also should be noted that all of the work I have been doing has been at a painstakingly slow pace, regardless of how much sweat I produce. I think it's just slow moving work.

After cleaning the frame up I started plug welding all of the holes. Only three holes were left exposed. One for the bed (which i welded a nut to the bottom side of, and the two used to hold the old crossmember for the rear cab mounts. Those will be filled after I put the new crossmember in. Some of the larger holes needed some help filling, so small plates were added. Now once the boxing is completed there will be no ways for water to entire the frame.

Here you can see the three holes that were left. I also added a 1/4" plate inside the frame rail as a brace for the body mounting crossmember. I'm not positive it will need it, but I figured it certainly won't hurt it. I'm thinking about adding some more throughout the frame.

Without all of the crossmembers in the frame it looks a little intimidating. I hope that once it's all back together everything stayed true and straight. So far so good.

For a little motivation for the build, I picked up the wheels and tires I'm going to be running. I'm a little worried about load rating, as these are only a C class, but if it really becomes an issue I can always address it.
39x13.5r17 BFG KM3's on Method NV305s. Windsor? for scale. The package measured to 38 &1/4" tall. I didn't check the width.

 

[Madbaddad]

About your tires...

The Load Rating on tires is only the maximum air pressure for that tire. Standard Load Rating is 36psi, Load Range C is up to 50psi, Load Range D is up to 65psi and Load Range E is up to 80psi. The actual load capacity of any given tire, regardless of its "Load Range", is the "Load Index". That tire has a Load Index of 121 and is capable of supporting 3,267lbs at 50psi.

The best way to determine inflation pressures is to weigh each corner of the truck with a full load and find a chart that has inflation pressures for that load.

I used a public dump scale to find out my truck weighed 4400 on the front axle and 4200 on the rear. Going by those numbers, my Load Range E tires needed 55 and 50 psi. I took them both to 60 to allow for variations in weight and my truck stopped pogoing on the freeway. I have also not seen any weird wear patterns so the tires are fine at that pressure.

So unless your truck is going to weigh over 12,000 pounds, those tires should be good. Just adjust the pressure for the load and you will be fine.