Jeep Auxiliary Wiring Basics

[jream2008]

Hello All!

I just bought a bunch of toys for the JKUR:
- 4 Rigid D2 Dually LED lights (2 driving, 2 wide)
- 1 IPF backup/work light (to mount on the rear tire carrier)
- National Luna fridge/freezer (to be mounted on Adventure Trailers combo slide)
- Warn Zeon winch

I have wiring for each individual component, but I am wondering if there is a bigger picture I need to be considering? From the research I have been doing, it seems like I should have:
- Some port of switch pod/bank (does anyone have any good recommendations? I don't like how bulky the Daystar switch panel is)
- Relays in the engine compartment that would be actuated by the switches
- Fuses - not sure where they go, exactly, other than as close to the battery as possible
- From what I have read, it seems like the winch should not be fused, but maybe it should have a disconnect?

Since this is a pretty straightforward set of accessories for a JKU, does anyone have any good recommendations on wiring strategy? I have seen some things like the DBox4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmoaKsfwug4) or the SPOD (http://www.4x4spod.com/product_p/600-07.htm) that look like they combine all the relay/fuse setup in one place - is that the way to go?

Any help would be appreciated (including pointing me to existing threads - I HAVE spent time searching ExPo for good threads, but it is hard to find the right thing).

Thanks!

Jason

 

[daveh]

I'm using an SPOD. The simplest way to connect all of those items. Just run the wires to the SPOD and you're good to go. The only item not able to connect would be the winch. Follow Warns install on that one.


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[Weeds]

I used a Painless fuse box mounted next to the battery. The cost is under $80.00. It has fused circuits that work with or without the ignition on. I have had it for 6 years with no problems.

I believe there is a knife switch that can be mounted to the battery for the a manual winch disconnect.

 

[1stDeuce]

Call me a hack, but for small LED lights, I'm not sure I'd bother with relays, unless you want to use really small switches, or make them go on/off at strange times, or with input from other devices.
Particularly for the backup light, just wire it into the power and ground for the reverse lights, unless you want a separate switch for it. I that's the case, put a diode in the wiring from the backup lamps, and switch a direct feed to the lamp between the diode and the led. That way your switch won't turn on the stock backup lamps, but putting it in reverse will turn them all on.

If you do the driving lights two to a switch, again, you could skip the relays. Those lights draw 2.5A each, 5A total. That's not much... Relays are good for getting full voltage to a high amp device w/o sending lots of juice through switches and running heavy wire great distances. They're also good for running things via switched grounds so you are only running ground wires. That was necessary for 150W halogen lights that drew 25A a pair, but for LED's, just put a 10a fuse in line to the power to the switch, and run the output right to the lamps. Or run 12v to the lamps on a 10a fuse, and then run the ground wire to the switch, and to ground. Either way, 5a total isn't much amperage, and even using 18ga wire should get plenty of voltage to them. They're certainly not going to be noticably dimmer getting .5v less than is available at the battery. (Approximate loss from 15' of 18ga wire running 5A.) Welcome to the ease of wiring LED's!!

Winches indeed wire direct, right to the battery. (For BOTH Positive and Ground!!) I've never run a disconnect, and never had a problem. If you do want a disconnect, make sure it's rated to at least 500A! I actually used marine wing nut terminals in MI so I could disconnect the positive and prevent corrosion in the winter, but I don't bother now that I live in the arid SW.

For the fridge, you might consider running dedicated wire directly from the battery to the general area. I'd recommend wire of somewhat significant gauge (10 or 12 ga) and perhaps a 30A fuse just in case you want to use it to power other things. That'll get it good voltage, which will keep it very happy. I use Anderson PowerPole connectors (available on Ebay) for that sort of thing, since cigarette lighter plugs are notoriously inefficient at moving more than just a few amps,and they often come unplugged on rough roads. Easy to use, easy to mount, easy to make adapters for battery clamps, cigarette lighter, or direct power.

Good luck!!
Chris

 

[SulVento]

For me the spod has been great. Wouldn't change a thing.

 

[unkamonkey]

I don't run many extra electrical things other than a radiator fan but I would run extra lights through relays. A friend managed to munch his front fender on his Jeep when his electric winch failed to turn off. Some people put another solenoid pair in to prevent things like this. I suppose that's why I like PTOs, if something is going wrong, shut off the motor. I have also read that a winch should only be connected to the top terminals of the battery, the side connections won't work for long. I suppose it depends on the battery.

 

[BCobe]

Painless also has a control system! http://www.quadratec.com/products/17004_009X_PG.htm

 

[Weeds]

Painless also has a control system! http://www.quadratec.com/products/17004_009X_PG.htm

This was not available when I installed the fuse panel.

 

[Dr.TardCakes]

I wonder how this compares to the sPOD?

 

[Mitch502]

If you wanted, you could go to a junkyard and get a fuse box w/ relay plugs in it....that would make some of your wiring easier....

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Trouble free/top quality/aircraft conns/installation ease/convenient fuse/relay combo box/combined 6-ckt switch array/w installation aircraft type--

----sPOD--never a whimper after 4 years

Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[WOODY2]

Don't know if I would run the ARB refrig thru the SPOD. Wire it direct with at least #10 wire otherwise you may be prone to the unit self shutting down due to current loss. ARB makes a good fused wiring harness that's pretty much plug and play.

 

[ken78cj5]

Aux wiring

I second the SPod. I installed one a few years ago in a CJ7, and have had no issues. It is a well built unit, and easy to install.

 

[jream2008]

Hey everyone! Thanks for all the replies!

I have ordered an sPOD. They upsold me - of course - on the dual LED option...

I ordered my fridge (National Luna) from Adventure Trailers, and he advised me to not go through the sPOD. He is sending me a wiring kit, so I will probably just wire that one directly. The wiring kit has a low voltage cut-off and a fuse, and the fridge itself has a low amp cut-off (I think?), so I will be pretty protected there.

And the winch I will wire directly. Although everything I read on ExPo suggests I should probably use my Hi-Lift instead of the winch ;-)

Thanks all!

 

[1stDeuce]

Hahah. Well, if all you have is a Hi-lift, then I suggest you use it. But if you have a winch, it's generally a LOT less work to use that instead, unless there's a reason the Hi-Lift is needed instead. (Lifting over something vs. dragging over it?) I recommend you get familiar with both so when you need them, you know how to use them, and which one would be the best to use.