jeep hitch and bumper loads and tow rating

skunkriver

Observer
jeep bumper builders seem to never state there products hitch cap. and tow rating. I'm looking for ideas to beef up there bumper mounting points . also would like to see pics of broken hitches and story of how they broke. also what is the max. hitch load when on road and off road with a expedition trailer ?
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
What type of Jeep? A standard TJ has a 2000lbs. tow capacity-rated from the factory. An LJ bumps that to 3500 lbs. XJ's, ZJ, JK, KJ, etc., etc., etc. all fall relatively in the same category with the exception being some of the larger ZJ's I think are rated around 5000 lbs. if I remember right. Could be wrong on that though.

Your typical tow hitch is over-rated for the tow capacity of the Jeep from the factory. Your typical aftermarket bumper with receiver is over-rated as well, though often times, not actual listed as tow rated or stamped with a tow rating load rating for liability reasons.

I tow with my '05 LJ Rubicon, which is rated to 3500 lbs. I currently run a Jeeperman rear swingout bumper with tire carrier, jerry can rack and home-built Co2 carrier as well, though I'll likely be removing that in favor of building my own rear bumper and separate rear swingout mounted off my rear corner armor in some fashion once I get my trailer build complete.

I have the bumper mounted to the frame using the regular mounting points and frame tie-ins as well, along with the recommended 8 mounting bolts through the rear crossmember. When I welded in my rear Currie Anti-Rock, I then built my own mounts for the rear anti-rock so as the mounts became part of the rear frame tie-ins, I welded them to the frame, so they are all full-welded now to the frame instead of just bolted. Prior to welding to the frame though, they were just bolted, along with the 8 mouting bolts through the cross member. With the weight of the trailer loaded to full rated capacity, I could still get enough of a load on the trailer and bumper to create enough of a strain to flex the swingout-which is your typical A-frame design-a hair off the tailgate snubbers, so it would rattle over washboard roads. This became a nightmare so I then welded on a new latch mechanism off my rear corner armor to tie a second mounting point for the swingout off the upper portion of the A frame on the swingout. Prior to this mod, there was only 1 locking point for the swingout which worked fine for regular road use, but did NOT work at all off-road and especially under load when towing as it flexed enough to rattle and drive me nuts.

Granted this is NOT your standard bumper, but if you incorporate a swingout into your bumper, keep that in mind. You WILL have issues if you do not address that. For mounting options as you asked about, you will need to fix that. A second mounting point will be needed high on the A frame if one is added.

Even without a swingout, I'd HIGHLY recommend tying your bumper on your Jeep-if it's a typical TJ or LJ, into the frame from the regular mounting locations, then through the frame with frame tie-ins as well, through the cross members, then the key point that most are lacking is the third plane underneath the bumper where the factory keeps their factory tow hooks-build a bracket off each side out of 1/4" plate and tie into that third plane mounting point UNDERNEATH the frame. By tying into the sides of the frame with the tie-ins, the back cross member, and underneath, you will NOT have issues towing, or flexing your bumper/frame. I know from experience towing with my Jeeperman swingout bumper. Mine has been modified many times to make "right". It did NOT have the lower bottom mounts, I added them to try to see if it made a difference. It did. I removed them for a reason I cannot remember now for testing purposes to prove my theory and indeed they are needed. I have not yet put them back on. Now I'm at the point of removing the current rear bumper to build a new one I THINK once my trailer is finished. If that's what I do, it WILL have those lower mounts.

As to what is max load-I don't know. I do know my current 5x10 trailer weighs 1100 lbs. empty with a 200 lbs. tongue weight and tows perfectly everywhere I go. I have NO issues with this trailer anywhere in any terrain under any circumstances, other than it's just not strong enough or built to my standards. It does great for what it's intended, but I need something a little different for off-road use which is why I'm building the new one. I frequently run the 5x10 to max capacity/load without issue and have no problem at all with the trailer. The issues stated above I believe to be standard design issues with the bumper/swingout design as I've seen the same issue on trailers loaded much lighter than mine. Regardless of how heavy/light you go, my recommendations remain the same for bumper mounting points regardless of trailer size/capacity and what you'll tow with.

Sorry for the length.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

WMac

Adventurer
Keep in mind, That its not always how much you can tow. Its how much you can SHUT DOWN..... I have a Rubicon with 4 wheel disk brakes and a slightly pumped up 4.0. it pulls my Conquer Conquest no problem.

The standard TJ 4.0's only have disks in the front.

I have a friend that did the 5.7 Hemi swap into his 2008 Jeep.... :Wow1: SomeBi*** will rip your lips off from a standing start. and 0 to infinity in nothing flat.

and I would guess it would pull my 37' 5th wheel if you could hook it up.

HOWEVER.....I would NOT want to be in it when it comes time to stop. the trailers weight would fold you up like a pretzel....

My point is just be careful about what you put behind your jeep. Respect what it is, and its towing capabilities..... a bumper capable of 4000lbs on a vehicle rated at 2000lbs doesnt mean its OK to trailer 4000lbs. :coffeedrink:
 
Last edited:

Hilldweller

SE Expedition Society
Keep in mind, That its not always how much you can tow. Its how much you can SHUT DOWN.....

What he said.
I have a 2-door JK with springs in it from a 4-door tow package. I've got steel bumpers at each end and a hitch from the same manufacturer.
But no trailer brakes yet....
The Max Coupler helps by maintaining smoothness but I watch surfaces like a hawk and keep my ballistic potential in mind.

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