Land Cruiser TLC ICON Baja 1000 edition
- Thread starter SOAZ
- Start date
Grim Reaper
Expedition Leader
ntsqd said:
The F motor Makes the same Torque as a 7M GE at a MUCH lower RPM.
the 2 F makes MORE torque. (210 verses 189)
The 3.4 makes as much Torque as the 3F but as much HP as the 7M. The smaller displacement lets it spin up more like the 7M. (220 lbft).
I loved the 7M. It was a really fun engine to tinker on. In a slick Supra its a great motor but pushing a big box with a lot of wind drag I really don't think it will be what you are hoping. It would always feel labored.
Westy
Adventurer
ntsqd said:
You should go read 4runnerRicks very informative thread on the 7m and his impressions, over on Pirate as Grim said before. More importantly, read up on his after thoughts on the 7m after he put in the 2.7.
While the 7m's are an upgrade from a 22re, especially a tired 22re - if you are going through all the work to do an engine swap, might as well put in something worthwhile like the 3.4.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
It would be a replacement in an FJ wagon, not a 22R/RE replacement. Via the ORC Yota ML a hunnert years ago I watched what Andrew and few others went thru in putting 5/7M's where 22R/RE's used to live. No way I want to go there.
FWIW I do NOT go to POoR's page. Sorry, that's a black hole in my internet, it flat doesn't exist to me. I value anything off that page at less than Zero. The why is not worth going into here. Just accept it and don't to change my mind on this topic as you will fail.
The point is moot anyway. I've too many projects in line already. The first 7M I ever put in anything will be in a '63 Nova coupe with an AFCO front sub-frame. That project is about the 673rd on the ever growing list.......
FWIW I do NOT go to POoR's page. Sorry, that's a black hole in my internet, it flat doesn't exist to me. I value anything off that page at less than Zero. The why is not worth going into here. Just accept it and don't to change my mind on this topic as you will fail.
The point is moot anyway. I've too many projects in line already. The first 7M I ever put in anything will be in a '63 Nova coupe with an AFCO front sub-frame. That project is about the 673rd on the ever growing list.......
LC/LR4Life
Adventurer
How about $45,000 ??? Seems a LOT more reasonable.
Hell they didn't even have to invent anything, they just copied Toyota!
No R&D... almost pure profit!
Hell they didn't even have to invent anything, they just copied Toyota!
No R&D... almost pure profit!
Lots of profit
I inquired how much they would charge me if I dropped off a completely bare body and frame so they could strip and paint the way the paint the ICON.
They quoted me $20,000! And that was if I did all of the dismantling and reassembly! You belive that! I was quoted $500 to strip them both here in denver. IS paint really $19,500?
:wings:
K
I inquired how much they would charge me if I dropped off a completely bare body and frame so they could strip and paint the way the paint the ICON.
They quoted me $20,000! And that was if I did all of the dismantling and reassembly! You belive that! I was quoted $500 to strip them both here in denver. IS paint really $19,500?
:wings:
K
nickw
Adventurer
BreckBJ44 said:
I know the answer to that question....NO.
I know they use a special "evironmentally responsible" paint, but I can not imagine it costs that kind of money.
$20,000 is the realm of high end custom hod rod paint, like SUPER high end, flames, pearlescent, etc. No way would I pay that for a cruiser.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
FWIW, I understand that the work TLC does is that sort of quality. Is it worth $20K for a paint job, very rarely IMO and like you say almost without doubt not on a utility truck. But if you are restoring something for shows or whatever, I suppose you might be able to justify that kind of coin for body work.nickw said:
Nothing I do is for show ;-)
I wasn't interested in show quality. I just wanted to make sure that since I have a rare body on my cruiser, that I never have to worry about rust again after a full frame off.
Does anyone know what the advantage to Powder, then paint and then the urea stuff is compared to other rust proofing methods? I am just looking for something super tough for the trail, even if it looks like poop.
Oh, what I could do with $ like that! Not to jump on the band wagon on those trucks, but I have seen really nice restorations, build ups, and customs that don't touch that price. As far as engines go, why not diesel? Also, why not toyota. I've been driving toyotas for years just because they run forever. For that much money, I want the engine to last forever. BTW - that is not a flame on chevy engines, I just have never seen a V8 go 250K with really hard mileage.
I wasn't interested in show quality. I just wanted to make sure that since I have a rare body on my cruiser, that I never have to worry about rust again after a full frame off.
Does anyone know what the advantage to Powder, then paint and then the urea stuff is compared to other rust proofing methods? I am just looking for something super tough for the trail, even if it looks like poop.
Oh, what I could do with $ like that! Not to jump on the band wagon on those trucks, but I have seen really nice restorations, build ups, and customs that don't touch that price. As far as engines go, why not diesel? Also, why not toyota. I've been driving toyotas for years just because they run forever. For that much money, I want the engine to last forever. BTW - that is not a flame on chevy engines, I just have never seen a V8 go 250K with really hard mileage.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Powder Coat was once thot to be the end-all solution. My personal experience has been that while it's tough stuff if applied right, once penetrated it's not any better than paint and a whole lot harder to spot repair back to the same level of protection.
I would look into the industrial paints if you want really long lasting protection. The moisture cured polyurethanes (marketed for home use as POR-15, Rust-Bullet, etc.) are one of several options out there.
I would look into the industrial paints if you want really long lasting protection. The moisture cured polyurethanes (marketed for home use as POR-15, Rust-Bullet, etc.) are one of several options out there.
Sloan
Explorer
The reason Johnathon didn't go with Toyota motors and drivetrains was because Toyota wasn't willing to source him the parts in the small quantities he required. It came down to it was cheaper to get axles and motors from GM than putting in small orders with Toyota and then waiting on parts. What you have to realize about TLC is that, here in LA the value of money is severly distorted. The last time I stopped by the were prepping 40s for Tom Hanks and David Letterman. Their work is amazing but they supply a niche market and it is a pricey one.