Lifting and jacking?

[Scotty D]

Thanks for the tips guys. I did not know about those attachments.
I spent a good amount of time in my youth getting my old 2wd chevy truck out of the mud with a farm jack, if you dont know what you are doing , its like wrestling a mule.

 

[Herbie]

Just a note on bottle jacks, when the tire is flat, the axle tube is 3-6" lower to the ground.
[...]
If your bottle jack is 10" tall when fully lowered, it may be impossible to get it under the axle. (if you're on concrete, rocks, etc. where you can't dig down)

I'm a bottle jack guy. The stock scissor jack didn't have enough throw to get my taller tires up high enough to change, and I don't have a good spot to lift with a Hi-Lift. My solution to the above problem is the Bogert Safe Jack system with the extensions and modular Jack-Stand kit. In the event of a dead-flat tire, I can manage a tire-change with a 2-stage lift. (First lift from the spring mount or subframe, then drop onto the jackstand, then a second lift under the axle or hub.)

It could be a bit less cumbersome if I can find a 2-stage bottle jack with the right shaft diameter, but for now, I'll take slow but safe and compact.

 

[Teamoatmealpie]

Just a note on bottle jacks, when the tire is flat, the axle tube is 3-6" lower to the ground.

On some vehicles, this may be as low as 8" off the ground.

If your bottle jack is 10" tall when fully lowered, it may be impossible to get it under the axle. (if you're on concrete, rocks, etc. where you can't dig down)

This leaves you placing the jack in a less thn desirable position.

When measuring, think 'worst case' scenerio, like the tire came completey off the wheel. And size your bottle jack accordingly.

They do make short, 2 stage bottle jacks.


I prefer a Hi-Lift for changing a tire on the trail, but with droopy, coil suspensions, you often need to chain or strap the axle, to prevent it from drooping, and jacking the Hi-Lift to it's max.

Great Food for Thought- Never really thought about the lack of clearance, its always been about getting more lift to accommodate for the lifted van. I will be reassessing my scissor & high-lift & wood blocks I carry.

 

[Petrolburner]

I built my own, but basically this.

http://dmzfab.com/product/jack-skid-plate-for-harbor-freight-2-ton-racing-jack/

I left the wheels on mine so it could still roll around on concrete if I ever needed a second floor jack in the garage. The aluminum skid plate means it will work in the sand. It's low enough to get under the axle or frame with a flat tire. A 2 ton jack is plenty. It will safely lift more than that, but the effort required on the handle gets pretty high.

 

[Petrolburner]

I found my photos

Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Untitled by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Skid plate for the Motovan jack by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Skid plate for the Motovan jack by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Skid plate for the Motovan jack by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Skid plate for the Motovan jack by Petrolburner, on Flickr

Skid plate for the Motovan jack by Petrolburner, on Flickr

 

[IdaSHO]

Sorry, Ill never allow myself to depend upon a 2-ton floor jack to lift any full-size rig.

Step it up to a 3-ton, at least. Especially considering such a cheap jack is being used.


The front end alone on a 4wd 7.3 E-350 even without being "expo'd" out, can weigh near 2-tons
Fully dressed, its easy to push 4500+ on the front end. Ambo? Even more....


I always have a 6T bottle jack.

And never a worry about low clearances to get in there, as I retain the factory jack.
Its more than enough to regain any lost clearance I need, then I slip the stupid simple, reliable, and safe bottle jack under.

Bottle jack is also half the price and weighs less.

 

[Petrolburner]

Ok. Call it a 5000 pound rear axle, half that is 2500, seems far enough under the 4000 pound rating to me. I prefer the wide base of the jack I showed to the small base of a bottle jack. I'm not sure what my plan is for my box van yet. My rear axle weight could potentially be 9000 pounds.

 

[akskiffer]

floor and trolley jacks.. the base needs to travel to get under the lift pad.

I have my doubts about you trail n dune floor-jackers doing anything.

WHY- in the driveway the jacks don't have enough handle travel to start lifting my diff when the jack is aligned w/long van axis. If the base wont move it adds up to a lot of pulling the van from your jack point while elevating it

heck, I hate watching floor jacks drag themselves about when I lift next to the tires. garage floor is smoother than my driveway

The stock jack is not wimpy. I wish a bumper jack would work.

Lastly you do need a van if you are taking a floor jack; who thinks they are too big?

 

[akskiffer]

of course, who knows how much recovery gear, rigging, tools, spares, companions might be required or helpful in times of trouble like flats,getting stuck or required repairs.

The last places that trouble was likely I would have needed a big helicopter or a cat or army to get out if I broke.

 

[Alloy]

We have Bigfoot Leveling on our trailer.....it's also on board jacking. The cyl rods are oversize unlike many RV leveling sys.

Bigfoot Leveler's Ford E-350 System Comparisons

Bigfoot System Comparisons for the Ford E-350 Chassis See a side-by-side comparison of the Bigfoot Automatic, Platinum and Wireless Leveling Systems.

www.thebigfootleveler.com

 

[billiebob]

Factory supplied screw jack under the axle works best on solid axles. And my wifes Subaru.
The tire can be fully flat, the jack still fits and with a 2 stage lift, gets plenty high enough.
Altho the local tire shop I use does the winter/summer change over for free.

 

[Regcabguy]

My truck's 8900# with two occupants,wet camper and 50# boxer. I have a traditional steel floor jack at home,the factory scissors jack and 12 ton bottle jack in the truck. Perhaps an overbuilt scissors type jack with bolt on platform might be a viable option? Might be a market for one?