Locker for a Dana 50 in a F250 Diesel??

[4x4junkie]

Some super-dutys did come with a solid axle D50, yes.


As for strength, the actual difference between the TTB D50 and a D60 is very slight. Chances are if you are breaking shafts or u-joints on a D50, you probably would be breaking them on a D60 as well.

The real benefits pushing to a D60 are suspension and steeing related. The D50 is never really "correct" when it comes to suspension and steering alignment. Camber and toe alignments are ALWAYS changing as the suspension cycles.

The difference between a D50 and D60 is actually pretty substantial.

A D50's inner axle shafts neck down to 30 spline (1.31" @ spline) where the D60 has much larger 35 spline shafts (1.50"). These larger inner shafts will better tolerate the torque fluctuations created by the u-joints when the steering is turned. The D50 also has a smaller ring gear with a MUCH smaller pinion shaft, and in the case of a TTB D50, has much smaller u-joints too. The D50 also doesn't have near as much aftermarket as a D60 (twice Ford attempted to put D50s into F-350s but both times went back to the D60 because the 50 apparently wasn't reliable enough. This last time around they finally ditched the D50 under F-250s at the same time starting with '02 models).
You can fix a TTB 50's steering, though that certainly wouldn't address it's strength limitations.

My thinking is that if the OP is contemplating the installation of a locker, he's doing something demanding enough that I probably wouldn't be taking chances with a weaker axle when there's a 100% bolt-in stronger option available. Though if he leaves the diff open, then yeah I would agree it'll probably be OK.

 

[IdaSHO]

I stand by my original statement.

As I said, As for strength, the actual difference between the TTB D50 and a D60 is very slight. Chances are if you are breaking shafts or u-joints on a D50, you probably would be breaking them on a D60 as well.

Perhaps I should clarify...

Regardless of physical differences, the actual strength differences are what matters. And for 90+% of all "OBS" F-series owners, the strength difference is irrelevant simply because the TTB D50 will NEVER break under normal or even partially abusive situations. Nasty shock-loading situations that are encountered during rear wheeling will break most anything. Given enough beating, D50 or D60, it doesnt matter, the weakest link WILL be found. And given my experiences, it will be either a U-joint or a lockout. Tell me, aside from serious offroading (this is Expedition portal BTW) how common is it exactly, to break a D50 R&P, shaft, or U-joint? It simply isnt common.


With ALL that said, I made the change recently from the TTb D50 under my '96 Powerstroke to a kingpin D60 for a few simple reasons that I eluded to earlier.

*The Kingpin D60 will NEVER need an alignment (caster or camber)
*steering and alignment are not effected by suspension cycling
*And finally, the real life hatred of all things BALL JOINT. Never again will I have to replace the ball joints on this truck. it doesnt have any anymore!

 

[Buliwyf]

I've never seen a 99+ Dana50 solid axle fail. Leaky pinion seal or bad bearing maybe.

But I could climb to the moon on the stacks of broken TTB's I've seen. That's a whole different game. I won't touch a truck with the TTB.
*the only thing the 60 Kingpin accomplishes is the ability to run high steer. They still require as much maintenance as the balljoints IME. Never had to align either type on a Ford.

 

[bjm206]

I have seen two solid axle (99+) Dana 50s that have failed. Both snapped an axle at the neck down area around the inner splines. Both were open diffs that failed while plowing snow (slip, grab, snap).

 

[IdaSHO]

Not surprising bjm, plowing is TERRIBLY tough on the front end of a truck. What are the chances that both those rigs had auto transmissions, and the operator was changing from Drive to Reverse before coming to a complete stop....

That will snap any axle after enough hits.

*the only thing the 60 Kingpin accomplishes is the ability to run high steer. They still require as much maintenance as the balljoints IME.

Hardly. Most SD ball joints wear out in less than 50k miles. Replacement at a shop costs around $500 per side, plus considering the down time without a truck....

Pushing to a kingpin axle reduces maintenance considerably, and increases reliability.

 

[Buliwyf]

Hardly. Most SD ball joints wear out in less than 50k miles. Replacement at a shop costs around $500 per side, plus considering the down time without a truck....

Pushing to a kingpin axle reduces maintenance considerably, and increases reliability.

Funny? I'm getting 180,000+ on mine. They're cake to replace, but I don't recall ever having to them more than once per truck.
-
Kingpins are nice, but harder to find and extra $$$.

 

[IdaSHO]

I dont care how easy you think they are to replace. They are beyond the scope of the shade-tree mechanic. Especially if you have any corrosion.

I wanted an axle Id NEVER have to replace them on, so I went kingpin.


As for mileage, just google search "super duty ball joint miles" and my claims will be justified.

Any super duty with a ball joint axle that is carrying anything more than its own weight (this IS expedition portal) WILL be going through ball joints quickly. Its that simple. My F250 with the TTB D50 and a 2500lb camper went through them routinely every 25k or so. OEM, MOOG, Raybestos, it didnt matter.

Kingpins will last the life of the truck, only needing a shot of grease every decade or so.

 

[Buliwyf]

I dont care how easy you think they are to replace. They are beyond the scope of the shade-tree mechanic. Especially if you have any corrosion.

I wanted an axle Id NEVER have to replace them on, so I went kingpin.

My F250 with the TTB D50 and a 2500lb camper went through them routinely every 25k or so. OEM, MOOG, Raybestos, it didnt matter.

.

You had a TTB on an OBS F250, yeah those ate joints. I'm not talking TTB joint and rod eating junk. Every time your suspension cycled, it tugged on your steering. So every little dip and bump in the road gave a little tug to the rods and joints. Solid axles don't have much of that. I can't recall the last time we did a front end joint on any of our 350/3500 trucks.

I'm talking '99+ solid axles. It's just not a big deal. Enjoy your kingpins, but for everyone else, don't bother, the standard Dana 60's are fine and cheaper/more plentiful.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

I wanted a kingpin axle. Heard so many good things about them. However, they are too old. They don't come with the newer 8x170 lug pattern. Not gonna rule out a D60 from an F350 in the future, but just gonna put my ARB in my stock D50 for now, and be careful.

 

[IdaSHO]

I'm talking '99+ solid axles.

So am I.

Re-read my last post about ball joints...

As for mileage, just google search "super duty ball joint miles" and my claims will be justified.

 

[Buliwyf]

I wanted a kingpin axle. Heard so many good things about them. However, they are too old. They don't come with the newer 8x170 lug pattern. Not gonna rule out a D60 from an F350 in the future, but just gonna put my ARB in my stock D50 for now, and be careful.

You'll be fine. Especially if you're only locking up for extra traction in mud and farm grass. What diff are you putting in the rear.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

Same... ARB. Odd you should mention grass... Couldn't get up the hill in my own backyard without engaging the front axle back when I first bought her. (she had all terrain tires, just pack up and spin)

 

[IdaSHO]

Weight helps a lot too.

Without a doubt, removing the tin-can factory bed in favor of a much heavier flatbed has made my truck MUCH better in 2wd.

It used to be a roller-skate on ice and snow in the winter, making running it in 4wd almost a requirement. With the flatbed I can manage it in 2wd until Im in 19+ inches of snow.