Loki's 416 build (finally)

[loki646]

Ok here is the test video of the actuated lid. This is also a test of using the Droid via Qik.com and the Qik app.

For now, no I'm not planning on a RTT but again the actuator will also be assisted with a standard gas shock of the same or higher rating for a combined weight cap of 300+lbs. I can also simply replace this actuator with a higher rated one later as they have them available up to 400lb each. The cost really wasn't bad at all. $129 for the actuator and maybe $10 in misc hardware & wiring. Having a lid that a 120lb 5'2" girlfriend can lift.......priceless!:victory:

YouTube - Qik - M416 Actuated Lid Demo by loki646

 

[rubicon789]

Talk about raising the bar!

How much did that run you?

Already on that... Check out the site here... Look slike $119.95.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=fa+05-12-18

Not sure if we can find them cheaper though. I am drooling right now. It also doesn't look like it takes up much room at all.

Couple of questions though.What if the lift fails, can you still open the lid? Did you build in any provisions for is this happens, such as a sort or something not mechanical? just curious.

I love the idea though and will seriously consider when I am building my lid this summer.

 

[loki646]

I will still have gas shocks as assists but also as an alternative in case of mechanical failure. I'm still working on a pin release system so the actuator can be released even if the lid is in the closed position. I'm thinking something like a pull cable of sorts.

 

[loki646]

Couple of questions though.What if the lift fails, can you still open the lid? Did you build in any provisions for is this happens, such as a sort or something not mechanical? just curious.

I love the idea though and will seriously consider when I am building my lid this summer.

Alright just had a brain fart while sitting back staring at the lid contemplating your question in more detail and came up with what may seem the most simple idea. With the cross member that I added for mounting the actuator's mount to the lid, this created a convenient square that in fact will make for the perfect access panel. Simply open the panel and the pin for the upper actuator pin is easily accessible.

 

[xcmountain80]

Nice!

 

[loki646]

Quote from JKO member

Awesome Job so far!! I may have to copy this actuator idea on my chaser. Mine is easy enough to open and close but that actuator will work as a secondary lock as well (so long as the switch is hidden).
Have you thought about putting the actuator and assist on the outside of the trailer vs. inside? Was just thinking that if you have bulky items inside and are traveling off road there is a possibility that they could bounce and damage them.

Again Great job....U got skills!!!

I did have that thought, but The actuator is not outdoor rated and given the dust, dirt, and mud that our vehicles see, I doubt it would survive very long.

The unit actually only stands off the headboard by about 5" and that was me giving it an additional 2" of clearance. I did in fact think of the cargo damage factor and the plan is to build a "sub" wall between the main cargo area and the 5" space that houses the unit. The 5" space will also serve as a means to recess some of my other gadgetry via a hard-mounted Pelican Case. Inside the case will be a regular stereo, CB w/weather radio, a few outlets, and the trailer's switch panel. This allows me to use a smaller Pelican case that would otherwise be too shallow for the depth needed for some of these items. It will be mounted and sealed to the outside of the headboard itself. then all the wiring will be in the 5" sub space shared by the actuator.

Thanks again everyone for the compliments. This is hopefully just the first in a few more of these I might build. But this one was more of me building my skills in areas I had never even touched before. Hopefully it also serves as proof of what even the average weekend tool guy can accomplish in just a small one car garage and a little ingenuity.

 

[loki646]

Well I got rained out at work on Monday, so that meant I could spend sometime working on a few things that I intended to do this last weekend but wasn't motivated to do.

Awhile back either on this forum or over at JKO, someone had mentioned concern that cargo might shift and damage the actuator. Well here is the beginning stages to answer that problem. Originally I was going build a full dividing wall, but after rummaging around in the junk pile that is my garage, I decided to finally do something with the left over pieces from my Wilderness Rack that was crushed back during my flop in the TJ.

Now the best part of this, it will be removable. Pictured is just one of two railings that will be bolted into the sides; an upper and a lower. I simply cut out 8" of length, re-welded the mounting ends, and done!. Unlike a solid panel divider I can also use these to strap down my cargo for additional security against load shifting.

The picture of the propane tank is me considering this as it's location. It can be removed through the small square section of the lid with merely by tilting it slightly. This plays right into my idea of having two hinged panels within the lid towards the front. The larger section is still open to debate on its use. I'm currently thinking either locating the batteries and electronics here or a future water tank as this section of the frame was reinforced for this purpose.

And finally I decided to get around to installing the tailgate latch. Though its not 100% finished, it's basically done. The final fittings will be added once I install the seal around the tailgate itself. For those looking to buy this same latch, here is the link.

 

[loki646]

Now as I've mentioned before, this trailer will also serve as a utility trailer as well, hauling loose material such as gravel or mulch. During those times, the lid will be removed and I will still need a means to tie down a tarp or cover. With the lid on, I still need a means to strap down loads of sheet lumber or other items of the such. So why not stick with a tried and true method, plus well damn it I just plain like the looks of the hooks on there.

So I spent yesterday cleaning up & prepping the tie down hooks that I salvaged from the original tub. I couldn't get all the paint off due to their weird angle and size, however I got most of the bad rust spots off and heavy chip mark out.

Now for attaching them, with concern than by welding them I might end up with excessive burn through on the 16 gauge tub and wanting the flexibility of being able to move or even remove them later I decided to simply pop rivet them. The LocTite serves as both a temp adhesive to hold the hook in place long enough for me to drill the hole and pop the rivet in, but also once dried it will seal around the rivet eliminating any leaks.

Creating a sudo gasket seal

Once the Loctite was tacky, simply applied the hook and pressed to create the bond

Positioned at the 1' and 2' marks from either end leaving a 2' space between the 2nd and 3rd hooks for the fender placement.

The finished look well just short of paint anyway

Next on the To Do list was install the new 4" round LEDs. pretty cut and dry on these with the exception that the 4" holes I originally cut were about 3/8th too small, so after trimming the holes with a jig saw ( would have loved to have had a plasma cutter this morning) I got the new lights in.

 

[dirty Bakers]

I really respect wat you are doing and your skills. I think If I were to build a trailer I would follow your build as a guid line.

 

[loki646]

No real new news other than hopefully by Saturday night I hopefully will have a set of stock Rubi rims and tires. I've been bouncing PMs to set up a meet for me to buy a set of black rims up in Jacksonville, so my Saturday might be spent with a lot of driving.

Hopefully though I'll get a set of tires on the trailer so I can get it turned around to start work on the other side. I just got my estimate from Martyn @ Adventure Trailers for the Max Coupler so I'll be placing that order today as well. That leaves me 3 weekends before Jeep Beach to get this ready, it won't be finished, but it will at least be presentable.

 

[loki646]

Came home tonight and pulled one of the front tires off the Jeep and along with the spare I pulled the trailer out so I could turn it around making work on the other side easier.

Here is a sneak peek at the near finished side, I may still cut and raise the bottom of the fender to provide some extra clearance for larger tires in the future.

 

[discosleuth]

wow big improvement looks great!!!

 

[highlandercj-7]

Shaping up nice!

 

[loki646]

I've been posting this in two forums, so you will have to excuse the next few posts as I'm cutting and pasting a few back posts from the other forum to catch you all up on where I'm at with this.​

 

[loki646]

With the new rims from d'sjk (JKO member)

The CB antenna and mount

Here you can get an idea of just how far the actuator extends to open the lid.