LR3 keyfob / remote disintegration

[cornfarmer]

SUCCESS!!! The keys arrived today. I figured I try one at a time. Took my old, beat up, original key (that looked like the OP's key fob in the 1st post) and the uncut spare to my local Ace Hardware. Asked if they could duplicate the key cut, and the guy said he'd give it a try. At first it seemed to not quite fit into the ignition, but I took off the door lock cover and tried it in there. Had to kind of force it, but after that, it inserted easily, and then worked fine in the ignition.
The programming with the IID tool was super quick and easy (hardest part was finding the right menu to initiate the process).
New key starts the vehicle and the fob lock/unlock work fine! But I will carry both the new and old for a few weeks.

What did Ace charge you if you don't mind the question? I was thinking about going that route too but ended up doing what I did on page 1 of this thread.

 

[Boston90]

What did Ace charge you if you don't mind the question? I was thinking about going that route too but ended up doing what I did on page 1 of this thread.

Also wondering about pricing. I’ll check my local Ace for pricing tomorrow too.

 

[DVD]

Ace hardware charged $5/key to cut the new key blades to match the existing blade on my old fob. Not bad: 2 new keys for approx $40 vs probably close to $800 if I went to the dealer (of course, this doesn't count the cost of the IID tool for programming the new fob to the vehicle, but I already had that).

 

[Boston90]

What’s the consensus on LR programming the aftermarket fob? Think they’d resist?

 

[Abran]

LR won't do it. Need to buy theirs. FYI, the aftermarkets don't have a charging circuit, but still have the solder on style battery.

 

[Boston90]

Ok. I went to a local locksmith today to see if they had an option. I was quoted $224 for a new functional key and fob.

 

[krick3tt]

If the aftermarkets don't have a charging function it means you have to replace a battery, right? And, pry the thing apart all over again every time.

 

[DVD]

If the aftermarkets don't have a charging function it means you have to replace a battery, right? And, pry the thing apart all over again every time.

For $15 for the fob (inclu electronics and blank key) and $5 for having the key cut, I won't bother with the prying apart and soldering if/when the battery dies. I could replace a key every year for the remaining life of the vehicle and still be way ahead of just one new key from a dealer. If my after-market keys die after a few weeks, that's another matter, and I'd probably go ahead and buy a genuine fob/key from BP Utah or somesuch. Time will tell.

 

[Boston90]

I’ll be sure to ask the locksmith about the charging situation. I know I’ve never had to replace this battery in my Tacoma and in my wife’s old VW we changed her main key battery once in 4 years.

 

[DVD]

After a couple weeks, my new key/fobs are doing great. I am no longer bringing an old key along as backup. $20 approx for a new key/fob that works in all the expected ways. Such a good deal, I replaced both my old keys.
One note on the key cut. Both keys didn't quite fit in the ignition on first try (after the local Ace hardware cut the key to match the old one). The new keys inserted into the ignition but wouldn't turn to "on" position. I took the cover off the door keyhole (which seems a bit beefier than the ignition) and ran the key in and out a few times to get the key matched with the tumblers, and after while, I could turn the key in the door lock. After that, it worked fine in the ignition. I recently replaced my BMW key, and I had the same issue with the key not fitting perfectly on first try but then working after a few tries. I should add that the keys don't have any hang-up or clunky feel. It just took that final bit of forming in the vehicle.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Great update! I'll get one of these on order and maybe send it up to HB to that locksmith. Would be good to have a third lying around!

 

[Blaise]

Sorry for the delay. My $16 amazon key also worked fine.

 

[Silmarillion]

After a couple weeks, my new key/fobs are doing great. I am no longer bringing an old key along as backup. $20 approx for a new key/fob that works in all the expected ways. Such a good deal, I replaced both my old keys.
One note on the key cut. Both keys didn't quite fit in the ignition on first try (after the local Ace hardware cut the key to match the old one). The new keys inserted into the ignition but wouldn't turn to "on" position. I took the cover off the door keyhole (which seems a bit beefier than the ignition) and ran the key in and out a few times to get the key matched with the tumblers, and after while, I could turn the key in the door lock. After that, it worked fine in the ignition. I recently replaced my BMW key, and I had the same issue with the key not fitting perfectly on first try but then working after a few tries. I should add that the keys don't have any hang-up or clunky feel. It just took that final bit of forming in the vehicle.

Can you swap the metal key rod with the new one you buy so it doesn't have to recut?

 

[DVD]

Can you swap the metal key rod with the new one you buy so it doesn't have to recut?

I can't see why you couldn't. One of the keys/fobs I recently replaced was from 4 or so years ago, when I bought an empty fob and transferred the electronics and metal key rod. One thing I like about this new option is that I don't have the little bit of superglue overflow and the key never quite folded in exactly right when I did the swap.
So it's nice to have a clean, smooth working key again.