Luke's 2008 JK Unlimited Build

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: From 2007 to 2011 there was NO AUX cooler, just the inadequet one in the A/C condenser-they don't use the radiator !

JIMBO, the one on mine (OEM) is larger than the one in your pic. I'm wondering if I ended up with something special, or if yours is just more efficient, this the larger size isn't necessary. Perhaps you have something else; are there two coolers in front of you radiator?


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After 5 years Chrysler FINALLY issued the jeep auto/w an AUX COOLER--mine is self installed, but any aux cooler, no matter how large/small, will increase the auto tranny fluid cooling-

I have two in front of the radiator, one exposed tube/fin and one Moroso racing (FRAME MOUNT) 500 cc cooler--kinda redundant, but my auto never gets over 210° F-even towing up hills and off road-remember, my jeep is an '08 JKUR

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[Gear]

What I'm experiencing is a light popping in the steering. I have torqued every bolt from the pitman arm down and am still getting it. This has got to be a common JK thing as one of the other Jeeps we test drove had the same issue.

I have found an army of upgraded drag links, but I don't want to throw away money of the problem is elsewhere.

Hello Luke,

Open the hood and check the steering linkage going thru the firewall. For some reason on my 07 Jeep the bushing in the firewall would slide down the square shaft. I simple tapped it back into place and put a small hose clamp on the metal to keep it from sliding in the future.

Worth a check!

 

[kleinrider]

:sombrero: From 2007 to 2011 there was NO AUX cooler, just the inadequet one in the A/C condenser-they don't use the radiator !




After 5 years Chrysler FINALLY issued the jeep auto/w an AUX COOLER--mine is self installed, but any aux cooler, no matter how large/small, will increase the auto tranny fluid cooling-

I have two in front of the radiator, one exposed tube/fin and one Moroso racing (FRAME MOUNT) 500 cc cooler--kinda redundant, but my auto never gets over 210° F-even towing up hills and off road-remember, my jeep is an '08 JKUR

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

I took a pic of mine for you (sorry, crappy cell phone pic). Mine's an '07 JKU, with a tow package and this aux cooler. It's almost as big as my radiator. I think I got an odd ball one from the factory (I ordered it).

Bottom line though, you're right, any aux cooler will be better than nothing!


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[JIMBO]

:sombrero: Heh Heh, nope, thats your A/C condenser and the auto (warmer) is at the bottom/w the two tubes connected on the drivers side of the cond.

I took a pic of mine for you (sorry, crappy cell phone pic). Mine's an '07 JKU, with a tow package and this aux cooler. It's almost as big as my radiator. I think I got an odd ball one from the factory (I ordered it).

Bottom line though, you're right, any aux cooler will be better than nothing!


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The factory never issued a STOCK JK/JKU/w an aux cooler--

Now you may not have A/C--doesn't matter, the stock auto was supplied with the condenser--with or without the A/C system--so they could install the inadequet cooler (warmer)-:bike_rider:

So, sorry, but you don't have an aux cooler, look at my pic--the big aux cooler isn't on the radiator---it's on the A/C condenser !

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[kleinrider]

Ah, gotcha! Thanks for the clarifier!


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[Luke Wright]

I have had issues with a "clunk" in the steering from day one, I noticed it during the test drive and was sure I could fix it. Besides, at the price we paid I don't mind tidying up a few things.

With my wife moving the steering wheel back and forth I was able to find what I believe is the source of the clunk:



The boot on the ball joint seems to have come unseated allowing it to become contaminated and wear out. This link connects to the pitman art via a turnbuckle and a second ball joint:



Replacing this part is straight forward, but not exactly easy. Here is the new drag link that arrived today:



The joint locates on the steering knuckle via a taper with an interference fit. In other words, they are pressed together and very difficult to get apart. I have read that tapping on the steering nuckle with a ball peen hammer will cause it to fall out, but I'm going to employ a bit of heat to help it along. If I heat up the area around the mating hole with a blow torch it should expand the metal enough to release the joint.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Luke Wright]

Job done! Kind of, the steering wheel is now off center. Tomorrow I will adjust the turnbuckle between the pitman arm and steering knuckle to correct that.

I had to remove the tie rod end on the passenger side in order to remove the drag link, so if you need to do this to your Jeep be sure you do this first. I thought that getting the ball joint out of the steering knuckle would be an issue, but a few taps with the ball peen hammer caused it to pop out easily.

All in all, it's a 30 minute job.

 

[Deleted member 48574]

Its nice to pocket that 80 bucks minimum in shop fees! Well done.

May need to get a full alignment done now that you are finished that; even if it doesn't seem like it at the moment you'll save later on from tire wear and such.

 

[kleinrider]

This is my future, Luke, but unfortunately I'll have replace both ends. Those parts ain't cheap, so ill probably go aftermarket when I do it. Thanks for the tips on removing the tie rod on the passenger side.


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[Luke Wright]

It's an easy job, but I will suggest hitting everything with PB Blaster the day before (maybe even every day for a few days before if you live in the rust belt). Cleaning and oiling the treads before installing the new drag link will prevent much cursing too.

 

[Luke Wright]

I managed to finish installing the compressor last night:



Ignore the red tape, it's all I had. I will be replacing that with black gaffer tape soon. The compressor easily fits in the cubby and under the load space cover, you can't even tell it's there! I mounted it to the left side of the space directly through the body using the ARB supplied carriage bolts with rubber grommets at all contact points. I did this to try and isolate vibration. I cut a hole in the carpet rather than mounting it through the carpet for two reasons. One, so that I can remove the carpets to clean them without having to remove the compressor and two, because this unit develops a ton of heat while operating so I didn't want direct contact with the carpet. I did take the cut off section of carpet and try to burn it with a blow torch; thankfully it doesn't light on fire, it just melts away. The first few times I air up I will be watching the area around the compressor for melting or burning.



The power cables I ran outside the vehicle and to the battery via this conveniently located drain plug.



I made a slit in it, ran the wires through, and then gooped some sealer over it. I should recieved the splitter and pump up kit today or tomorrow.

I'm very pleased with the install so far.

 

[life_w_vagabonds]

I've been considering that spot for a compressor too. It's a great place to put stuff, unfortunately I usually need the stuff in there when all my camping gear is on top of it!

 

[Luke Wright]

The ARB pump up kit arrived early yesterday, so I made good use of my lunch break and finished off the job:



3jarrells- so true! The location of the cubby is irritating because you can't access it unless there is nothing in the load space. In the next few weeks I will be mounting a quick disconnect outside of the cubby so that I won't need to access it to use the compressor, which I will need to do as I am prototyping a drawer system for the load space.

 

[Luke Wright]

Look what else arrived yesterday:



This is an upgraded bolt kit from Northridge 4x4 to cure my Jeep of its sloppiness.

After replacing the drag link, the "clunking" did not go away; it was a total waste. As the bolt kit should have been the first fix, I'm doing it now. Unfortunately, the hole on the axel side of the front track bar is completely wallowed out. It's not a difficult repair, I just need to find someone who can weld a washer over the hole. Not a big deal, just annoying.

 

[voodoojk]

I wouldn't bother welding a washer. Just get the JKS track bar bracket/brace or the one from Polly. Bolts on right over the existing factory mount and gives you a brand new hole to use plus re-inforces the bracket.