M101 3/4 Ton Expedition Trailer Build

Hey Mark

Those trailer are my sisters. I was hoping to do a little work on them over the summer but so many other projects going on.

Did not get much done on the trailer this weekend. I cut everything of the bottom of the side panel. I'm going to leave a inch and half of the metal on the bottom to help get a good mounting surface once I weld the panel back in. I think I might but some rivits in as well just for a little insurance and if everything hold I can go back later and take them out and plug weld the holes which would add even more strengh.

I have been looking into that bolt pattern swap you talked about. I can find any information about that axle. I have not even looked at the bearings on them yet. The only thing I have found about the axle is that the hub nut socket you need is a inch and half. If you know anything about them I would love to know or if you have any ideas where I can find info about them. I want to run the 5x4.5 bolt pattern like my Jeep and I affraid I'm going to have to get another axle for it. I don't think I ever sdaid how much I paid for the trailer, which was $750 and I have to drive 10 miles to get it. Looking on ebay it seems that I was not a bad price if I dont have to change the axle. I'm not going to run out and change anytime soon, I just plan on getting a spare for the current set up.

Well hope you doing well.

Robert Walker
 
Dear TXH3T

Thanks for the voice of incouragement. When I first started this I was not sure what people would think about it. I don't think at first I was doing a good job of describing what it was I was tring to do. Hopefully the pictures will help at bit and that when finished it will as well.

Thanks again for looking at my project.

Robert Walker
 

Chris Cordes

Expedition Leader
Hey your welcome man! I think this is a very cool idea and it will look great when ya got it all together. Best of luck keep up the good work!
 

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
The axle on both my M101A2 and M116A2 trailers are Dexters.
Changing the hubs may not be as cheap as a new axle TXH3T "quoted $120.00 for his"

http://www.dexterpartsonline.com/page/465305582

To remove the hub nut use channel locks. "no need for a socket"
pull the cotter pin, the castle lock and unscrew the axle nut. Pull the hub, Clean it all
inspect, add new wheel bearing grease and revers order install. spin the hub while tightening the nut to seat the bearings.

Get a spare wheel and tire for now and save for the new axle. 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern and a 235-85-16 were stock rollers.
$750.00 was not bad and it was close. My M101A2 was $500.00 but I had to travel 500 miles round trip.

Keep us posted and take your time, It is looking very cool. " you may be a trend setter on this mod, Many people think these trailers are way to big to use.
Mine looks tiny behing my truck so it is ok with me.
when it stops turning from being tight back it off to the cotter pin hole. castle nut and cotter pin back.
 

Attachments

  • channel-lock-pliers-s.jpg
    channel-lock-pliers-s.jpg
    13.2 KB · Views: 877
  • DSC05280.JPG
    DSC05280.JPG
    92.9 KB · Views: 59
Last edited:
Well I got some welding done today. Was a bit nervous about doing it, but I have spent the last few days doing some practice welds on scrap material. They are not the best looking welds by no means, but the panel is sold and does not move. Tried to pry the panel away from the bed and it started tearing the metal so I think they are sold. Plus I still need to do the other side of the panel as well.

Well more to come in a few days.

Thanks for looking

Robert Walker

DRV SD 1.jpgDRV SD 2.jpgDRV SD 3.jpgDRV SD 4.jpgDRV SD 5.jpg
 
Well did some work on trailer today. I got the other side panel cut free and most of the prep work done so I can weld it back on. Sounds like it's going to rain maybe here so I don't thinmk I will get it done by Sunday night. In fact I think that I will be lucky to get the trailer back together before winter. I still have to do all the wiring for the tail lights plus build the boxes for the tailights, need to get the hitch rewelded as well.

Well just a little update for those who might be watching.

Thanks

Robert Walker

PS Side before 1.jpgPS Side before 2.jpgPS Side panel removed 1.jpgPS Side panel removed 2.jpgPS Side panel removed 3.jpgPS Side panel removed 4.jpg
 

Greenmonkey

Adventurer
Subscribed..
Your project is looking really good so far. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see the final product.


Tyler
 

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
Robert: Pull it into the carport and keep going. Still time to get it done before the snow flies.
Keep us posted.
 
Made some more progress today on the trailer. I got the right side panel all cleaned up and ready for welding. Took some pics of some of the metal removed just for the heck of it. Not sure what the weight reduction is going to be, but the air lift hooks weight 6 pounds each, so that is 24 pounds taking off plus the 50 or so for the surge brake. I'm not sure that I'm going to remove that much weight when I get this done. The welds will add some weight plus I'm not sure what the tongue bracket set up weights, I forgot to weight it before I installed it. Well it’s supposed to rain here Monday so I don’t know if I will get the welding done or not. I still need to decide how much of the front of the cargo box I'm going to remove. I'm thinking up to the second stake pocket from the front and that would make the box length just over 6 foot long. The new measurements should be close to a m416 or M100.

Well thats all for today.Thanks again for looking.

Robert Walker

These are the airlift hooks. There are two on each side and they weight 6 pounds each.
airlift hooks.jpg

Some cut off pieces.
airlift hooks.jpgCut off pieces 1.jpg

Right side panel mock up.
PS Side mock up 2.jpgPS Side mock up 3.jpgPS SIde mock up 4.jpgPS Side mock up 5.jpgPS Side mock up1.jpg
 
Hey Mark,

I'm planning on keeping them, just not sure how much of them. The red pretty much is where the sides were at. I painted them red because there are some sharp edges from the cutting and I thought maybe that would keep me from running into them. Seems to be working, I want to keep the fender extension so that I can have the side boxes. I had this hair brained idea to use old school lockers because to buy the boxes could easily be 800 dollars, but the more I have looked at the lockers the more I'm not sure about them working. For one they cost anywhere to 100 to 150 before shipping, and then I looked up how much it would be for shipping and it was around 200 dollars so it puts me right back at the regular box price. I'm not sure if my fab skills are good enough to build them from scratch.

Well I hope to get the other side panel at least tacked in Tuesday. I start a new job next Monday so I'm trying to get as much done this week as I can because I will only be home on the weekends, plus there is a Jeep show and swap meet this weekend in Iowa and according to the web site there are supposed to be custom off road trailers there.

Well hope you have a good week,

Robert Walker
 

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
Robert:

I think It is turning out great!
Good luck with the new job and shoot some trailer pictures at the show.
Any used truck boxes on craigslist in your area?

Mark
 
More progress was made today, well really a lot of progress for me. Sometimes I need to slow down and smooth things a little more but time is always against me. I mocked up the passenger side panel today and it went so smooth that I was able to weld it in. Now when I say weld in I have it welded so that it will not move. The panels are only welded on the outside right now. I don't want to weld the inside until I have everything in place so that I can get everything as square as possible. This brings a problem to light that even though I knew I may have to face it's become a bit more of a problem that I first thought. Here is the problem.

This trailer is a M101A, the cargo box that is, while the trailer frame is a M116A2. The cargo box was built in the late 60's the frame in the late 80's I think. Everything on these two pieces is either slightly bent or extremely bent. This made welding the panels in a little difficult, had to push and pry to get the pieces to line up so this trailer will never be as straight and perfect as one build with fresh metal, but for me it just adds charter and I will be less worried when it bounces of a tree or rock. Having said that here are some more pictures of what I accomplished today.

Fianl mock 4.jpgFianl mock 6.jpgFinal Front.jpgFinal Mock 1.jpgFinal Mock 2.jpgFinal Mock 3.jpgFinal mock 5.jpgFinal Mock up frpnt 1.jpgFront mock 4.jpgfront mock 6.jpg
 
These pictures are my mockup of where I plan to shorten the front length to. The cardboard is at 6 1/2 feet from the rear of the cargo box. I have 4 of the fuel cans that I plan to mount on the front plus a propane tank later in the build. I kind of like the idea of leaving the side and the front in place to protect the cans and the propane bottle, but the mounts I have in mind will protect them pretty well and removing the sides at this point might reduce some weight. I have seen Jeep Cherokee pulling car trailers with cars on them, and I know what my brothers old car trailer weighted, so weight although important I'm not overly worried at this point. So I'm going to take few days and think about it a bit.

Front mock 4.jpgfront mock 6.jpgfront mock 7.jpgfront mock 8.jpgFront mock.jpgMock front 1.jpgMock front 2.jpgMock front 3.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Cook table 1.jpg
    Cook table 1.jpg
    534.6 KB · Views: 22
  • Cook table 2.jpg
    Cook table 2.jpg
    536.1 KB · Views: 23

Forum statistics

Threads
185,981
Messages
2,880,489
Members
225,705
Latest member
Smudge12
Top