M101CDN build

ezzzzzzz

Observer
I picked up this trailer to build my camping rig. It was disassembled, chopped up for the tail gate, longer A frame arms fabricated and extended tube out the back for a rack. The bed was reinforced with two extra cross members. All those parts were galvanized before etching primer, seam sealer and more etching primer and then some paint. The springs have been blasted, painted and reassembled using poly slider material and new hardware. I rifle drilled and relieved the spring/shackle bolts to provide for lubrication. Wiring is almost complete which will be LED and include backup lighting. It has received a SOA conversion on the custom axle I built using RRC rear spindles and hubs. The landing leg has been replaced with the tongue jack. There's still a long way to go as I've barely started the hard top which will include a modified SII roof and RTT. In stock form the trailer sits 42" to the rail but now sits at 49". It will settle a bit more and should be at 47"- 48" when everything is installed.
 

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ezzzzzzz

Observer
Thanks. Tongue length extension is roughly 15". I did that to keep the stock appearance and use the lunette casting. If it proves inadequate I can always build an alternative to the casting and lengthen it more.
 

ezzzzzzz

Observer
I made a little headway this over the last few days. Hindered by a car show my Z club put on, and failed starter in my 240Z and fitting a rebuild L28 into my good friend's street/track 280Z. Here are a few pictures of the trailer's drop gate installed and the Series roof cut up and being shrunk for the hardtop.
 

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ezzzzzzz

Observer
The hardtop is still in progress but the trailer has been mostly completed and used this past week for a trip to First Landing State Park in Va Beach. The interior has been glass beaded, acid etched and Line-X coated. Even with the RTT up over 6' the trailer tows like a dream at 70+. Yes, that is A/C piped into the tent.
 

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ezzzzzzz

Observer
Very nice! What hinges did you use for the tailgate?

The hinges, gudgeon pins and antiluce came from http://www.towingandtrailers.com located in the chassis parts section. The hinges are weld-on types and the gudgeon pins they mate to are bolted to the frame. The antiluce are the catches at the top of that tailgate. I prefer them over nearly any other option. Once the hardtop is completed the lockable lift gate will secure the dropgate from prying eyes and thieves of convenience.
 

ezzzzzzz

Observer
Note the first pictures of the trailer upside down. I turned the front straps that hold the framerail to the outside then made the transition to the lunette casting. I picked up a HF tongue box that fits pretty darn close to the framelrail angle. It isn't mounted yet as I determine a good method to do so. It will probably be J-brackets that grasp the framerail held in place with button head bolts protruding through the box bottom. The idea is to split the box inside to hold battery/inverter/power receptacles on one side and straps/jack wheel/etc on the other. I also purchased this junction box locally to tie the wiring together. It can be found here too. http://catalog.redneck-trailer.com/...d=4&SKUTYPE=202&SKUFLD=SKU&DM=1250&WEBID=5094

I'm hoping that between now and next summer I can copy the extended tongue you did.
 

Skillet

Adventurer
I like the tongue jack setup. Can you elaborate on how you did that and what jack (brand and size) you used?

Thanks.
 

ezzzzzzz

Observer
I like the tongue jack setup. Can you elaborate on how you did that and what jack (brand and size) you used?

Thanks.

It was a simple jack, Bulldog, I think. I measured and bought based on the height/stowage requirement. A piece of 2x3 tubing was cut into a channel and welded to the jack tube. It was then bolted to the original drop leg casting.
 

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