Max Coupler on a Civilian Bantam

[atavuss]

I have had a couple of PM's on how I fabbed the mount up, here is how:
My original Fulton hitch was very worn and missing parts so instead of installing another ball hitch I bought a Max Coupler off road type hitch from Adventure Trailers. I fabbed up a new piece out of 2" tubing 12" long. I notched the top and bottom and spread the "ears" out to fit over the stub that sticks out when stock hitch is removed. I used safety chains from a M416 as the stock chains were too short. the Max Coupler works very nicely, no noise at all! I have not had it off road yet but so far its on road manners are great! as an added plus the Max Coupler can be removed as a theft deterent. The Max Coupler was installed using all bolt in parts and all original parts were saved. Nothing was altered on this mostly original trailer.

If I get a chance and if there is any interest I will get the trailer out of storage and take the 2" tube off to show how I fabbed the end to bolt to the front of the trailer.

 

[TacoDell]

something I need to do to my M100

can you post detail pics (or a link to) of how that bolts into the Casting/A-frame ?

I don't want to permanently alter my trailer neither.

 

[RJ40]

can you post detail pics (or a link to) of how that bolts into the A-frame ?

I don't want to permanently alter my trailer neither.

Ditto on that! Although, I have altered everything else, so what the h#@%$ would it matter now!!:Wow1:

Cheers!

 

[JWilli]

My M416

Yes, please give more info. Getting ready to do the same thing to my trailer and don't want to loose the kewl kickstand if I don't have to.

 

[atavuss]

did not get a chance to get the trailer out of storage over the weekend, will try this weekend. the "kickstand" casting has a stub that sticks out when you unbolt the original Fulton hitch. I just modified the 2"x12" trailer extension to fit over that stub by cutting out the top and bottom and bending the resulting ears out to fit up to where the through bolt goes through for the safty chains.

 

[TacoDell]

did not get a chance to get the trailer out of storage over the weekend, will try this weekend. the "kickstand" casting has a stub that sticks out when you unbolt the original Fulton hitch. I just modified the 2"x12" trailer extension to fit over that stub by cutting out the top and bottom and bending the resulting ears out to fit up to where the through bolt goes through for the safty chains.

so is the extension welded to the casting ?

I don't see how you could have much strength in the vertical load, with just a single horizontal bolt going thru, if cutting or slotting out the top and bottom of the extension.

What keeps the extension from pivoting or bending up or down ?



Just hard to grasp a visual, while looking at mine.

and so... look forward to the detail pics.

 

[atavuss]

nothing is welded. I really need to take it apart and take pictures. it is hard to explain. the tube fits over the stub that sticks out from the landing leg casting, I think it stuck out maybe 4"? there is a bolt going through the stub that sticks out from the landing leg casting and the large bolt that goes through the safty chains also. IMO the modification I did is much more substantial than the original Fulton hitch which is basically thin strap steel.

 

[TacoDell]

nothing is welded. I really need to take it apart and take pictures. it is hard to explain. the tube fits over the stub that sticks out from the landing leg casting, I think it stuck out maybe 4"? there is a bolt going through the stub that sticks out from the landing leg casting and the large bolt that goes through the safty chains also. IMO the modification I did is much more substantial than the original Fulton hitch which is basically thin strap steel.

so in looking at the exploded veiw...

I'm going to guess that the tabs have been inserted between the A frame and the casting. Wouldn't have thought there was enough free play between the A frames and casting to allow for fitting those tabs/ears between there ?

I see an step in the casting about 4" rearward.

So is this what you're talking about... the tabs go back to that point and the single bolt that holds the chains on, goes through both ?

and so vertical movement is secured simply because the tabs sit inside that step and the tab height is real close to the castings upper and lower in that depression ?

Couldn't the tabs be longer with that bend and reach the secondary pair of bolt mounting holes near the rear of the casting ?

Curious... 'cause if you space the front of the A frame away from the casting... then I would think the four bolts on the rear of the casting would need to have some thing in there taking up the newly found space between the A frame and casting ?


Yeah it would be great if you could offer more details... I think I got a sorta idea... or at least getting closer ?