military or custom

[frumpy]

The info is much appreciated.

I set up the pintle so the trailer is sitting level, but if I cut off the top part of the pintle plate I will lose the gusset. The plate is 1/2" and rated for 10,000lbs (my trailer wont weigh more than 2000lbs loaded). Right now thats what is preventing me from being able to run the spare.

** The pintle is moved down lower than whats in the pic, it's now in the third hole up

 

[IdaSHO]

With less than 2k lbs in tow, Id be perfectly fine with modifying that hitch to fit your needs.

Cut the gusset, chop off excess plate, then using a shortened bit of the gusset you removed, weld the gusset back in place.

 

[rezdiver]

you can also adjust the trailer angle by moving the lunette to the upper position (upper hole) on your trailer.

I would have no issues on cutting it either, but if you feel its a safety issue, cut it and take it into a shop with a box of doughnuts in your hand and get a welder to spend 2 minutes and weld another gusset closer to where it is needed. or you can buy another receiver bracket like yours but much smaller for around 20-30 dollars from princess auto.

looking at your pics again, that gusset is only usefull for the exteme upper locations, that is why its there, the closer you get to the square tube down lower then you do not need the gusset as it is not accomplishing anything. its welded high up so the flat plate does not bend and flex, you will not have this issue if you are bolting down lower close to the square tube. this is just my opinion and not professional advice.

 

[Hill Bill E.]

With less than 2k lbs in tow, Id be perfectly fine with modifying that hitch to fit your needs.

Cut the gusset, chop off excess plate, then using a shortened bit of the gusset you removed, weld the gusset back in place.

Yep, that will work fine for your trailer.

Congrats on the trailer too!!!!

A wooden lid will be fine, if done right will last a long time.

I got 4 years out of mine, stiing outside year round, before it started giving me problems. It didn't leak bad, but the plywood started warping/seperating.

Had I repainted it when it needed it, it would have been fine.

I now have an aluminum skin on it.:coffeedrink:

Frame- skinned it with 1/4" plywood:

I built mine beefy, as it holds the RTT.

More pics if you need more ideas!: http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/Adventure Trailer Project/?start=all

 

[frumpy]

I think I am just going to cut it and maybe this will maybe giving me an excuse to finally get out my welder and set it up (its been sitting in its box since Christmas due to being gone for work and moving twice since march).

Another issue that I am having thats driving me nuts is the lights. I love the looks of the military lights, but is there an easy way to convert them to 12 volt?

 

[frumpy]

That wood lid looks nice, I was just thinking of doing something primitive quick and easy and hopefully get comfortable enough with welding again to build a steel one this winter.

 

[rezdiver]

put 12volt bulbs in them....
open the outer flathead screws running the perimeter of the light, (leave the two philips screws in the middle) open the lens cover up and change the two upper bulbs.... the bottom lights are for blackout driving, not needed, yours are probably LED's on the blackouts..

its an oring seal on the lens perimeter so you do not need to torque them too much as you will strip the aluminium housing threads

the wiring should all be 14 guage throughout the trailer so you are fine running 12v.

the truck end plug harness has a wire pin disconnect on the left side of the Aframe just on the outside where the C-channel beam has a plate welded to it. disconnect there and rewire a civilian plug.

 

[frumpy]

I think the easiest way is just going to be cut the wires and rewire from the light back.

Also, I was thinking of cutting down the pintle hitch plate to clear the spare but I may look for an 4-6" extension. It would clear the tailgate, but the tailgate wouldn't be able to open. Would I run into any issues doing this? I'm not worried about losing access to the tailgate as I still have the window to access gear in the trunk.

this one is $30 but it say its 20" long. I'm assuming thats the overall length.
http://www.princessauto.com/towing/towing/hitches/8304982-cliii-20-hitch-extender-with-step

 

[Outback]

For your plywood top use ACX or CDX plywood. The First letter stands for the top surface quality. A is no surface voids. The second letter stands for back side surface. The X is for exterior glue used in its construction. The X type will last longer outside. The best would be Marine Grade Plywood. This will outlast standard acx plywood many times over. Temporary fixes on projects tend to stay on longer than anticipated. Usually they stay on longer because 1 they work or 2 because you dont have time later to do it the way you wanted to to begin with.

 

[rezdiver]

I think the easiest way is just going to be cut the wires and rewire from the light back.

Also, I was thinking of cutting down the pintle hitch plate to clear the spare but I may look for an 4-6" extension. It would clear the tailgate, but the tailgate wouldn't be able to open. Would I run into any issues doing this? I'm not worried about losing access to the tailgate as I still have the window to access gear in the trunk.

this one is $30 but it say its 20" long. I'm assuming thats the overall length.
http://www.princessauto.com/towing/towing/hitches/8304982-cliii-20-hitch-extender-with-step

frumpy,
dont cut the wires in the harness if possible, i will buy the whole trailer wiring harness from you if the price is right. try and unplug the wires at the back of the trailer underneath, they look like bullet plugs save the plug ends too if you are cutting on the light side and not the harness side.

regarding the extension, i noticed your pintle is already sticking out pretty far with an extension it would put more stress on your receiver and frame if the weight and pressure is too much, depends how far out it will be to the trailer lunette connection..

 

[frumpy]

I'm going to go have another look at the lights. The guy I bought it from gave me another cable and said its to convert it to a civi pattern light hook up. Only problem is I don't think he knows what he is talking about, its just a replacement cable for the front part. I'll grab a few pics later.

As for the pintle plate, I'm not sure if the spare will clear while the trailer is sitting level, and if I go up in tire size again I'm going to run into the same issue again. Also, is it legal to have the trailer safety chains go to the pintle mount plate instead of the receiver (the chains aren't long enough to reach the receiver)

Outback, good call on the marine grade plywood, I can see it being on there longer than I plan especially if it works.

 

[frumpy]

rezdiver, I think I'm going to pull the wires and just use a normal civi trailer harness into the military lights and hope it works. If you're serious about wanting the wires shoot me a pm with what they are worth to you (not looking to make much just would like it to cover the cost of getting my lights up and running). I also have a spare piece that goes from where the wires come out of the trailer frame into the main cable to the plug. I'll grab some pics later on.

I think I'm going to axe this thread and start a build thread with more pics, info, and less clutter. Thanks to everyone thats helped with their info and getting me started.