mods you wouldnt do again ...

[Deleted member 9101]

Right, a Diesel is a completely different animal than a gasser, not even in the same realm. I can block off the radiator in my Cummins, and it still takes forever to get up to temp below 40*....

My service van, is a gasser and has heat after idling for 10 mins un 0-10*....

I could probably run my cummins w/o fans...

BUT, a gasser.... NO WAY.... I had electric fans on my Bronco, 302, w/ an auto.... Was fine... but, it would get warmer than I wanted... put the clutch fan back on....

My Rodeo, I ran an electric, with NO issues.... had a t-stat on it, AND, had a s/o switch on it....

SO.... It matters MORE what you are driving, than just the electric fan. He has a 351, and an auto...... just sayin...

Chase

I had a F-150 with a 5.4, Auto, three tool boxes and constantly towing in traffic and hills and I never had a problem running a electric fan. Its all about getting the max CFM you can and a good controller.

 

[Hill Bill E.]

Split sockets.:Wow1:

I haven't been able to split any of my Craftsmen ones and most of them are 40+ years old.

I have split/cracked a couple of Craftsman sockets, but always the 'newer' ones.*

I have some that are in the 40+ age also, great tools!

Those all stay in the shop:elkgrin: To valuable to loose on the trail/have stolen from the rig!

Rummage/Estate sales are a great place to find old Craftsman hand tools.

Even if they're broken, you can get them replaced!
:coffeedrink:

* For a while, Craftsman changed thier tool making process, and the quality/fit/finish went down the tubes. The older tools are awsome, never broke a socket in my dads set, and they have had many, many years of 'abuse' given to them!

 

[locrwln]

I run by '96 powerstroke 100% WITHOUT fans year round. And 4 months out of the year I have the radiator completely blocked off for winter duties.

The 7.3 in stock form simply doesnt work hard enough to make much heat.

Add injectors and a tune and things might change....

I would say that you aren't working the motor hard enough. Driving mine (7.3psd with 6spd) around empty, no problem, but if I have a "real" load on it, (camper and trailer) then my stock fan will kick on pulling a grade. Mine is totally stock.

Jack

 

[Rover De Land]

I have been running my discovery with no fan for a month or two. As long as the temperature is below 80* im good. If Im sitting in traffic for a little while I just need to use theheater. I do have a digital gauge.

 

[mustangwarrior]

actually when i bought my escort, the fan did not work, the guy had been driving it without it for awhile, and the only time it would heat up was in traffic with the a/c on, needless to say i replaced it with a $30 junkyard unit, i guess a little 4cyl wouldn't get that hot, but then again my old quad will heat up like crzy when the fan quits

and i have done my research with the e-fans, and seems like you get what you pay for, heard one that said flex-a-lite controllers will burn up, the best i've found is delta current controllers, i'm gonna run their factory ford 2 speed controller with a set of dual taurus fans from the pick and pull

 

[IdaSHO]

I would say that you aren't working the motor hard enough. Driving mine (7.3psd with 6spd) around empty, no problem, but if I have a "real" load on it, (camper and trailer) then my stock fan will kick on pulling a grade. Mine is totally stock.

Jack

Nope, the older Powerstrokes have a cooling system that hold up to nearly anything the motor can dish out, provided the vehicle is moving.

Even with 15k behind it pulling a 10% grade the temps stay in the green. I did have to upgrade to a large trans cooler for that pull though.

My truck is always hauling something, and tows on a regular basis.
Coolant temp is the LAST gauge I look at. When the motor is working, my eyes are always glancing at the EGT and trans temp gauges. Even with both of them nearing the red (easy to do if you are not careful), the coolant temp is just fine.

Your Powerstroke is a totally different animal.

Larger injectors, more turbo, different tune. You also have a manual trans, which allows you to lug the motor. This can also add more heat than otherwise.

Another thing it has is a front mount intercooler, which detracts from the cooling ability of the radiator, especially when that turbo is working its butt off.

 

[Azlugz]

My twin turbo 6.4 doesn't heat up at all. Even going to Flagstaff or Payson up the hills towing my 38' 5'ver. This truck is so much nicer than my old 6.0(junk). The old 6.0 would slow down and heat up some towing the old 28' up the hills and it was 5K less. Friend has the new 2011 Ford and it does even better with a torque of 800

 

[98dango]

mods i regret that i have repeted.

37s or bigger on every small rig i whave owned.

I loved my 89 toyota when it have a 4" ifs lift and 33/35 with gears and a rear locker. Then I sas and 37s and dual cases never went any where i did not got befor it just drove like pooop.

94 gmc snomoa 2wd loved it 3" lift 32s went most every where i wanted. 4x4 would have been nice but it was fun. So 4x4 swap 38s and it got way big. I ended up with a rock truck not a camping expo truck I wanted.

 

[HARABAS]

This thread proves the zen of limited funds. It prompts one to take careful considerations before pulling the trigger, weighing pros and cons against practicality and efficiency.

That said, here are my regrets:

1) Cheap "extra bright white" headlights from ebay. Burned out a headlight socket and they never fit the bezel tabs properly. Switch to Hella E-Codes (A+).

2) ProComp ES3000 shocks. Haste=waste. Rode great the first month. Kaput in 8 months. Switched to Old Man Emu, which took about a month to get, but definitely one of the best mods I've done (including longer OME rear coils and torsion bar lift up front). Rides better than factory.

3) Going for the cheapest glass replacement I could find. Leak from windshield gasket and a misaligned FF passenger window that rattles when it's down. They also lacerated the plastic moisture shield between the door and trim. Now after heavy rains, the interior gets humid from moisture.

4) K&N Air Filter. Never got the negative effects, but I just found that it's more convenient to replace with standard filters than to deal with cleaning, hours of drying, then re-oiling.

5) Remanufactured Alternator from auto store chain. First one failed in 6 months while freeway driving. On my second one now (they replaced at no charge). So far no problem, but the worry is definitely on the back of my mind.

Lessons learned: The cheapest option causes the greatest inconvenience. Buy quality and do it ASAP - As Stock As Possible.

 

[landy89]

I wanted to install a Safari Snorkel on my Defender, but i was convinced by a supplier from Buffalo that a Mantec Snorkel was just as good. I installed the Mantec Snorkel and had a bunch of engine overheating problems. I had to changed engines and when i did the mechanic noticed that there was an air intake restriction when the turbo was engaged. I pulled off the Mantec Snorkel and sure enough the snorkel had a restiction which restricted the airflow to a hole about an inch in diameter. We cut the Mantec Snorkel plate out and were able to remove the restriction while still using the snorkel...but this is a very poorly designed snorkel that should not be installed. I was surprised that the dealer sold it to me.

Another item i dislike is the addition of a 3-way fridge (gas, 12V, 220v). This thing is useless on 12V, and frankly useless except as a holder for melting ice. Buy a Engel or ARB compressor fridge instead.

I had expensive Hella lights mounted in front of my grill. The lights had no covers on them. While driving on some roads in Bolivia one light was punctured by a stone while the other light broke the mount right off. Invest in some light covers. Also i noticed that having lights which are mounted up high are pretty much useless unless there is no one else around as oncoming traffic does not like them. There is always oncoming traffic and when there is not it is because the road is too dangerous to be driving at night in which case you need lights aimed low and close to see the dangers as you drive 10kmh.

Expensive soft tires turned out to be a bad investment. They wore down too quick from all the highway driving that inevitably must happen on expeditions and they were easily punctured. Much cheaper and easier to buy local tires.

An eberspacher interior heater 5KW which is plumbed into my engine coolant system was a complete waste of money (and a lot of money it was). The problems is the interior heater fan of hte vehicle must be engaged for the heat to be pumped into the cab of the vehicle. Also the eberspacher does not run at altitude, which is basically only when i need it.

I also learned that DO NOT do any modifications which you would be unhappy if it broke or was stolen - because that is what inevitably happens on expeditions.

 

[zidaro]

************** thread!

 

[greg mgm]

I owned my '78 GMC Sierra Classic for over 20 years and started mods on it while in my 20's. (Uh oh!) I highly regret drilling so many holes under the dash to mount various items over the years. Inevitably I'd install another item (cb, gps, brake controller, etc) then drill more holes, or I'd move something over for room to install something else.....and drill more holes. :Wow1: And on and on for 20 years.
Lesson learned. My new truck is nearly bone stock.....NO holes drilled!

 

[SLO_F-250]

************** thread!

You said it! Great thread!!!!

1) Rancho Shocks = Waste of $$$. Went through a few sets on the old truck. Switched to Bilsteins and had no problems.

2) Cutting the Rear Truck bed Body panel for the "pre-runner look". Tough to sell the truck bed when I eventually got rid of it and did the full blown build.

3) No truck/storage box for carrying tools/ parts/ etc with me = FaiL!

4) Lifting the rear of a truck without adding track bars. Axle wrap sucks!

and Im sure there are more....... :smiley_drive:

 

[Casper]

Hmmm, while I have many things I would not do "again" I have to say I am mostly glad I did them in the first place because I learned alot from them. Buying cheap verses buying quality would be a big one. Better to just save my money and get the good one the first time.

I think the biggest thing I would change is the "impulse" buys because they look "cool" or everyone else has it. Example, my Gobi rack. Just loved the design and quality of it. In reality I do not use it for it's intent, and now that weight is a big consern for me it will be coming off. My dual rear swing bumper is another, I already have the ability to carry water and fuel on my Chaser, I don't need to be able to carry another 10 gallons on the truck as well. If I where traveling abroad, then yes, but with the exploring/wheeling I do I just don't need it.

My next build I will also be paying a lot more attention to the weight of what I am adding to the truck. I am not saying I will compromise components for it, but I will definatley be "weighing" my options(pun intended :ylsmoke. Do I really need that all steel, heavy as he** front bumper, or would a nice light tube bumper work just as well.

Just my thoughts.

Cheers,
Josh
&
Porthos
:smiley_drive:

 

[bobcat charlie]

I built several IHC Scouts over the years and 2 mods I would not do again are (1) engine setback and (2) reverse shackle frontend.

I built an 800B and set the IHC 392 V-8 back 13 inches. Ended up with almost 50/50 weight distribution. This would have been great for a desert runner but most of my offroading is in the Sierra's and No. Nevada where the extra weight over the front axel makes for a better steep trail climber!

I also did a shackle reversal on the 800B...makes a better high speed ride but again, a front shackle pushes the wheel into the trail, helping traction and climbing ability.

Just watch an old IHC Scout II outclimb Jeeps easilly...front weight and front shackles make for a great climbing machine!