more LR3 suspenion errors

zelatore

Explorer
Here's the story:

Last weekend I had a EAS error light come on and drop me to the bumpstops just as I was coming off the trail. I was able to clear it with the GAP tool but it would come back within a mile or two of driving. I kept seeing the front right sensor go out of range on the in-dash display and figured no big deal, I'll just replace it and be good to go.
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This weekend I replaced said sensor (also replaced a broken sway bar end link on the same side) and ... nothing. It behaves OK at parking lot speed but as soon as I get to highway speeds I get the red EAS 'tippy rover' warning light and it dumps me on the stops. I've tried swapping back to the stock rods from my Johnson rods just because, but no effect. Howver, now I'm getting warnings for ALL wheel sensors plus a cross link valve. Clearly these did not all fail at the same time.
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I know people often suspect batteries and/or brake light switch whenever odd codes seem to pop up. I ordered a switch last week since they are cheap but of course it hasn't shown up yet (thank you mr. brown). I did pull it and look at the contacts...nothing obvious. The battery has given me no reason to suspect it. I checked the voltage at the terminals this morning after it had sat overnight and had 12.35v. Running at idle I had 14.4v. Both of those numbers look good.
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At this point I'm running out of ideas. To make matters worse, I leave for work in the morning and won't be home until Thursday night, then Friday I'm supposed to leave for a club trip I'm leading in the Sierras. Pretty bad when the trail leader has to back out at the last minute!
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Any thoughts from the gallery?
 

zelatore

Explorer
Unfortunately, it appears my US spec '07 is wired differently than the thread above. I did go ahead and pull the inner fender out on the right front (what I took to be the NSF corner in the thread....Near Side Front(?) on a RHD English spec truck being the right front). Nothing like that wiring harness there at all. I followed the wiring from the sensor and it runs over the top of the frame rail and forward then up along the rad support to a junction similar to the one in the thread near the front of the air filter box. No signs of damage; went ahead and pulled it apart and all looks good with it.

Strike 2 for me....
 

JimBiram

Adventurer
Hope you aren't experiencing what I had. Had a bunch of self clearing faults, then after awhile dropped to stops. Gap tool said left rear sensor but that didn't do the trick. After flatbed tow to dealer, they had to replace the EAS controller. Worked fine thereafter. Wierd...


Every Day is a Good Day Surfing...Some are just Better Than Others

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zelatore

Explorer
Oh yes, did the calibration.

I went ahead and pulled the LF wheel well liner and associated bits (I have to drop my sliders to get to this, so bonus fun) and had a sniff around looking for any signs of damaged wiring but didn't find anything.

I've run out of time..it's 5:30 and I need to get some work done before leaving in the morning so it's time to just give up and break out the power tools (Visa). I've pushed my morning meetings back and will plan to just show up at Sacramento LR when they open at 7:30, hand them a platinum card and beg to have it done by Friday. So now I'm going to bolt my armor and wheels back on and put the truck in build mode so I can drive it first thing in the morning.
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This is going to hurt, but I won't be home during the week and it's the only way to get anything done between now and when I leave on our next trip.
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Here's hoping it's not the EAS controller. That's gotta be spendy.
 

unseenone

Explorer
A couple of other things to consider. Do you have lift rods, which ones. If they are out of whack that can cause the issue. Also, mismatch tire, or perhaps under inflated one. If you've got nav, put it on the 4x4 screen for a while and see what happens. I doubt battery, or it should kick off when you start it, rather than when it's running, but for kicks, check the voltage, while shut off, and again while running with a multimeter.
 

zelatore

Explorer
Yes, I run Johnson Rods, but I swapped in the stock ones for troubleshooting. Originally when the FR sensor was failing I could see it go out of range on the 4x4 info screen. Tires should be OK; all the same size and I had just aired them up when I came off the trail and still fought the issue.
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I did a check on the battery with a meter right on the posts. After sitting overnight it showed 12.35v. After starting, at idle, I had 14.4v. However I see the running voltage is changing between 13 and 14.x when running. Given the unusual way the regulators on these trucks work I don't think it's an issue though anything's possible.
 

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