My 4Runner

atestofmettle

New member
I just bought a 1994 4Runner and I am starting to mod it to be a Expedition Vehicle. I figured I wouldn't bother getting more upgrades until i could see so i put in a bunch of lights. i am thinking about getting a 4.5 inch Pro-comp lift. Any Suggestions on a good lift? I really dont care about getting the car higher i just want better suspension. I also want to do more to the car but my budget is low. What should i do first?
-Snorkel
-Suspension
-Gear (Fridge, lights, living items.....)
Any input about anything i could do to my 4Runner would be great. thanks!
 

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
Welcome to ExPo!

Well, we need to know what you plan to DO with the 4Runner, where do you want to go??? Your 4Runner will go most anywhere in stock form as it sits now IMO.

Here are a few suggestions:
Lifts - Stay away from drop bracket lifts (Fabtech, Procomp etc.) and dont cut your frame/crossmembers to install a lift of any kind (unless you SAS).

A good 3 inch kit from OME is plenty of lift and will give you what you need.

Tires - very important to get you there and back and always a priority mod IMO.

Camping gear - Big on my list was the fridge (and I know others will agree) and it is probably the BEST mod of any I have done. It makes things SO much nicer!

Snorkels are strictly for safety :costumed-smiley-007

.02
 

atestofmettle

New member
Thanks alot
what are good tires for everyday (not too extreme)off roading?
i also drive on the road. i am doing alot of my offroading because i own a farm and i have to do inspections so alot of dirt driving but i ski alot too.
Are there any other mods i could do that would be good to have?
 
atestofmettle said:
Thanks alot
what are good tires for everyday (not too extreme)off roading?
i also drive on the road. i am doing alot of my offroading because i own a farm and i have to do inspections so alot of dirt driving but i ski alot too.
Are there any other mods i could do that would be good to have?

My Tacoma is a dd too so I have BFG AT's on. That is generally the tire people get for general purpose. There are some other good AT brands out there, but I only have BFG AT experience so hopefully someone chimes up.

Mods- Well, the most important thing for me was getting my camping gear in order and the storage of my equipment.
DO NOT go out buying every cool thing that guys on here have until you spend enough time with your rig. Generally mods that enhance safety and protection would be first on my list. The tires too as they are the only things that touch the road.

Check out TacoDocs build thread. He can give you a lot of ideas on where to go next. He has documented the transformation of his truck well. Just make sure you keep your wallet far from you when reading his thread:drool: . There have been several time when I have shelled out several hundred only 5 minutes after reading his thread and going think well I should buy that too.

I would also agree that a good 3 inch kit from OME is plenty of lift.
 
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Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
There is no way to lift the front of that truck more then an about inch without drop brackets to lower the front diff Except a long travel kit. Other then the higer rate torsion bars there is not much you can do unless goign to the long travel with coil over conversion. Set of ball joit spacers and a good set of shocks is goign to be about it BUT that is a very sturdy IFS. Its biggest problem is the Idler arm.

It will clear 33x 10.5 with a set of tin snips and a hammer if you stick with stock size and offset rims so it really doesn't need much lift for most of what you will do with it. A locker in the rear Regear and call it done.

A 2 inch body lift and engien lift with a custom cross memebr will get you over 5 inches of exta clearence at the transmission croassmeber. You can also modify the brackets for the fuel tank and move it up 2 inches. This also make rockslider easier to install without a loss in ground clearence.

www.4crawler.com click the 4Runner lots of good ideas and products.

Is your truck a 31 inch tall tire model (check the door sticker for tire size)? If so you probably have 4.88's in the diffs It will work for 33's.

The
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Grim covered it, but I will only add that while a 33x9.50 or 33x10.50 tire will fit on stock rims with no lift, don't plan on fitting chains in there if want to keep the fenders intact. If I can get a couple of hours I have a set of ball joint spacers to install and I'm hoping that the extra inch or so of space gains me some breathing room to keep from taking my fender lips off with chains.

Otherwise, doing the body and drivetrain lift, that is a ton of cheap clearance just waiting on a 4Runner. Although the drivetrain and fuel tank lift is easier on a leaf sprung 4Runner (up to 1989), I think it can be done on the second generations without too much trouble. But getting the gas tank moved up seems like a really good idea on your truck.

OME's kit is going to give you more like 1.5~2" of lift, there's only so much lift you can get from the front end without adding brackets. But with OME (or someone else) torsion and lower profile upper bump stops you can easily get about 1.5" of lift and still have just a little down travel. I think the true cheap way to lift the back is Land Cruiser coils. The stock 80 series ones I think give a 4Runner a couple of inches of lift and when they lift them they will probably give them to you, certainly shouldn't be much more than a case of beer.

I would avoid a 4.5" lift, no need for it unless you are doing 35" or 37" tires. If you are going to that height, just do the solid axle swap. Otherwise, stick within the factory parameters, add an IFS brace, slightly larger torsion bars and good shocks. Run a 33x9.50 or x10.50 AT and your truck will be fine. Then focus on sliders, bumpers, lockers.

Grim is right on about the idler arm. After hobbling a couple of stock ones along, I just dropped the money on a Total Chaos arm. But there are guys making replacement brass bushings for the stock arm and that would be an improvement. The stock ones with the nylon bushing last about one 'wheeling trip.

BTW, which engine do you have? I'm having trouble finding a snorkel for our body style trucks with a 22R-E. If you have a V6 or carb'd 22R, Safari's got you covered, just doesn't seem to be any love for the 22R-E ones. But then again I haven't looked too hard since a Safari is about $400.

Good luck and have fun!
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
Pretty much what everyone here has said is right on. I've done the cruiser coil lift and you can see what I'm running by clicking on the link in my sig.

I'll add a couple things:

1. Our early IFS is missing a lower a-arm rear brace, which leaves you open to bending the frame easier. Sonoran steel sells the beefiest one and I believe Downey and others sell some as well. I have the sonoran steel one and I have landed on it hard a few times and it just gets scratches.

2. If you don't have a really heavy bumper and winch, then I would stick with the stock tbars and balljoint spacers (www.sdori.com) for the best ride and easier to use what little flex you have.

3. Find out your gear ratio, since you have a 5spd, I'd guess that you have 4.56 There are spots online that can explain the codes on your doorjamb sticker and one of those codes will be your gear ratio.

4. Moving the gas tank on our 4runners is a little bit tougher as you can't lift it straight up because the upper arm for the rear axle is in the way. As it is now, when my passenger side droops, the upper arm hitting the gas tank is what stops droop.

6. Use it how it is now, no need to wait for mods
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
slosurfer said:
3. Find out your gear ratio, since you have a 5spd, I'd guess that you have 4.56 There are spots online that can explain the codes on your doorjamb sticker and one of those codes will be your gear ratio.
A good one: http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274535

Basically after about 1984 (Toyota was messing with axle ratios in the late 1970s and early 1980s to meet MPG targets) it comes down to:

5 speed on 225/75R15 = 4.10
Auto on 225/75R15 = 4.30
5 speed on 31x10.50 = 4.56
Auto on 31x10.50 = 4.88

It is in theory independent of the engine, although there really aren't 22R-E trucks that came with 31" tires.
6. Use it how it is now, no need to wait for mods
Truer words have not been spoken.
 

atestofmettle

New member
BTW, which engine do you have? I'm having trouble finding a snorkel for our body style trucks with a 22R-E. If you have a V6 or carb'd 22R, Safari's got you covered, just doesn't seem to be any love for the 22R-E ones. But then again I haven't looked too hard since a Safari is about $400.

Good luck and have fun![/QUOTE]


i have the v6 so ya safari has my back
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
Yep, skip the Pro-comp lift, for those rigs, teh Bj spacer and a good set of Leaf springs (OME IMO) are your best bet. Far more durable/relaible, and in reality you can run bigger tires with NO lift.

Grim and Dave have hit the proverbial nails on the head...

These are great trucks to build (86-95 trucks are all tghe same underneath except for a few power/drivetrain options). While the powertrains aren't the most brawny, the trucks are pretty heavily built for their size...
 
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slosurfer

Adventurer
4Rescue said:
Yep, skip the Pro-comp lift, for those rigs, teh Bj spacer and a good set of Leaf springs (OME IMO) are your best bet. Far more durable/relaible, and in reality you can run bigger tires with NO lift.

He'll need coil springs rather than leaf springs, but OME is a good choice for coil springs as well. I haven't used them, but I haven't heard anyone complain about them. Just make sure you do your homework so you know if you will need the HD ones or not.
 
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Willman

Active member
Welcome to the ExPo!

First.....sliders...then Roof Top Tent......Fridge.....

Then the rest!

If Donahoe makes shocks for you rig.....get them!


:26_7_2:
 

atestofmettle

New member
hey im just wondering your opinion on my next mod.
-dual batteries/fridge
or
spacer in the back to level rig
or
save money for a long time for suspension kit
or
intake system
thanks
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
atestofmettle said:
hey im just wondering your opinion on my next mod.
-dual batteries/fridge
or
spacer in the back to level rig
or
save money for a long time for suspension kit
or
intake system
thanks

-Dual Batteries/Fridge:

Well, you can go along time and never have one. While they are awsome and great to have, many many expeditions have been made without them, so I have put them farther down on my personal list of mods.


-Save money or a long time for suspension (or something to that nature)

This one is in all fairness a two parter- while it is always wise to save and save, there are watys to not have to save as much... Get some Ball Joint spacers and a set of cruiser coils and you're running 33's comfortably.. Not to mention, do you really want to be the guy who has the engel and the dual odssey set-up running bald tires on a saggy old Toyota suspension (and OOOOOOOOOOOOH how they sag)... kinda odd my friend.

-Intake system:

Unless you're talking about a snorkel, I'd stay away from it(fipk's, "cold air intakes" etc). And, unless you're finding that you cross alot of rivers, it's not realy that important at this jusncture... OOH, but you did say you were on a farm eh... well, the dust and constant off-road time would make a snorkel more usefull to you... but I'd still get my suspension sorted before I added any new parts. :26_7_2:
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
atestofmettle said:
hey im just wondering your opinion on my next mod.
-dual batteries/fridge
or
spacer in the back to level rig
or
save money for a long time for suspension kit
or
intake system
thanks


Of those four, I would say the suspension system. Maybe a OME suspension.
 

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