My '91 'burb from sunny SoCal

[rxm6]

First off, nice score from my neck of the woods.

What tires were on the truck originally when you bought it to average 17.2mpg? I think those 35's and the 2" lift will hurt the mpgs more than anything else. A friend of mine had a 90 Jimmy with 35's and a 4" lift and was getting around 13-15 on the freeway. That was according to him, so I don't know how accurate his mpg figure is. If you don't want to upset mpgs too much, I would say to stay with the 255/85's and a 2" lift if you want.

And I second Spur's comment on the death wobble from underrated springs. I purchased some HD springs for mine, but I intend on carrying a lot of weight.

Once again, nice find!

 

[Rovertrader]

Thanks yet again guys. And yes, the brace is for sure regardless of other changes with the steering. Glad to hear a new rag joint helped that much- much cheaper and easier for sure. Ferrari dump, love it;-) What springs did you switch to?

She came w/ 265/75-16s, and I really think the 255s will help mileage, being about 1.8" taller and a half inch narrower. Also am worried about the 35s in that regard, as they are 2.5" wider, and only 1.5" taller. How would the 255s look with a 2" lift- tough to envision for me. Guess I can just leave the tires/wheels until after the lift, as I have the 17s and 35s from previous trucks. Very well may be a good solution- trying very hard to practice restraint!!

 

[Spur]

If you look through my build thread there are some pictures midway of my truck with a 4" lift and 33s. I know that's not what you are doing, but it might give you a frame of reference.

The springs on the front were custom made by National. I got it weighed, told them the height they needed to be, etc. They were all wrong, wrong height, wrong hardware, and super late. I had to get the truck done because I was moving and the burb was my DD for this past winter. So I just lived with it and now I don't mind the extra height so much. Anyway, long story. So now, a year later, custom springs are getting made by Alcan to match the fronts and to support the weight of all my gear and for the rare times I tow with that truck. Right now the tuff country in the rear are really floaty. The truck needs to have good highway manners and that takes precedence with some decisions for me. Hopefully the Alcan experience will be a little better.

For your truck, the tuff country kit from ORD might work just fine. It actually felt great on my truck for the first month or so, but the weight quickly broke them into being very soft. Strange but they never sagged, just completely felt like a totally different suspension within a few weeks. One with death wobble and dangerous at speed on the highway. I actually suspected this might happen, but the build of the truck meant that we needed a quick 4" lift to accommodate the new engine. For you, maybe it wouldn't fatigue so fast.

But do think about how much weight you're going to have. I don't think most spring manufacturers think about expo vehicles loaded down with water, fuel, gear, tools, roof racks, armor, winches, or in my case a different engine. Cant blame em.

If I were you, I would see if there was a local shop that could make you springs. See what they say. They might surprise you with how cheap they are. You could get exactly what you want and need. Get everything else from ORD, shackle flip, bushings, etc. Just a thought. Maybe worth looking into. Leaf springs on an OBS GM truck ain't rocket science.

 

[Rovertrader]

Thanks, just reread part of your build again. The Cummins certainly changes things.
We just picked up a Jumping Jack trailer, and actually pack pretty light- too many motorcycle years I suppose. Anyway, making storage options for the JJ now. Probably have the Engel Combi in the back, and clothes and such, tools, a little recovery gear, second battery,,, okay, it gets heavy ;-) I had actually planned on Firestone bags having had good luck with them in the past. Thoughts??
I also have a set of 285/75-18 Toyos from my SD, which are 35s, and nice width. Looking for some cheap new GM take off's in 18", which will actually help the steering a bit, and no biggie offroad given the application. I think this may be my answer for tires/wheels, and go 2" lift, etc...

 

[Spur]

I think bags would be great to think about. I had them on the the 1 ton I sold two years ago. They made a world of difference when towing. Great being able to air them down when off road.

I'm about to upgrade the suspension on my work truck. It's getting bags for sure, along with shocks and springs. I'm offroad everyday and routinely tow 10k pounds. Right now, the heat fade sucks.

 

[Rovertrader]

Funny, I need/use them on the 250, but the PW does fine. Of course the 250 rides much better empty too...

 

[mr250twostroke]

Thanks Sock Puppet!!

mr250twostroke, I tend to agree on leaving it, except the goal would be to tighten up the steering a bit. Considering crossover with PSC reman box, 2" lift w/ 35s, and even replacing the steering column to eliminate the rag joint and go U jts. The logic also includes new bushings at all the springs, and new shocks- most likely Bilstein 5100s. As you say, not looking for any major flex, just tightening it all up. Thanks

You might consider this http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286086&highlight=jeep+steering+shaft to replace your rag joint. Cheap and very effective. With that,new spring/swaybar bushings and a good steereing box your goal should be met. The crossover is a superior system but at a cost and really does its work when flexing the front end. I have run my Burb with and without the swaybar and definately noticed a difference. My springs are fairly stiff 6" superlifts. If money is no object then go for it, just seems a bit much for a 2" lift and 35's with light offroading. Here's a poor video of what made me go to crossover http://youtu.be/GikzPzoZ7yQ, it was conventional push/pull steering with the swaybar in the video (sorry about the mud in the beginning). Also you'll notice the driver side was stuffed, would have been much worse with the droop on the driver side.

 

[rxm6]

How would the 255s look with a 2" lift- tough to envision for me.

255/85r16 at stock height with 16x8 military wheels.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=471399&stc=1&d=1245505940

These are 255/85r16 with a 4" lift on 16x6.5 stock wheels

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=526544&stc=1&d=1261584817

ORD burb with 33x12.5 and a 3" front lift and 4" rear lift (to level) on 16x8 military wheels

http://www.offroaddesign.com/action/burly-burb.htm


Personally, I'm going with the 3," 4" lift from ORD with 255/85r16 for the majority of my driving. On the odd occasion I head into sand or mud, I have a set of 33x12.5, but they suck down too many mpgs for the amount of highway driving I do.

 

[Rovertrader]

Thanks for the YJ fix, makes good sence, and waaay cheaper. I do not want the truck to become a money pit, and quite honestly, it is pretty darn good as she sits. I do want to tighten up the steering a bit, but the tire/wheel issue is almost cosmetic. I also need to get the steering brace done. Just got my HD Warn lockouts for the front, and steering is the next biggie.

rxm6, thanks for the links, but only the last one works- which is a great read, and very helpful. I need to research some military surplus wheels now... Also researching some cheaper 18"s, so to use the 285/75-18 (35s but skinny) I already have. I think the 18s will improve the steering, but not a lot of sidewall, though enough for what I am planning I think.

 

[ExpoMike]

Here is a 35/12.5x17 tire on H2 wheels with a stock front suspension. Had to trim the lower back corner off the fender. Even with this, as it articulated and I turned about mid way, the edge of the tire would rub on the inner fender liner on the back. Also when turned all the way right the tire would rub on the drag link rod end. Less offset on the wheels would not cause this problem.

 

[chilliwak]

I like the `Burb´you have there Rovertrader. I am sure you will have lots of fun with that awesome machine. Do you have any pics of off-road action? Congrats on purchasing such a nice clean example of what is probably one of the best rigs around...

 

[Rovertrader]

thanks again guys for the input and pics!! Not to mention all the kind words...

A little work finished up, some premium Warn lockout hubs and later year roof rails- hopefully to mount a Hannibal platform to, we'll see. Thoughts??

 

[dieselfuel]

Crossover steering will negate the use of a sway bar, which I think would be a big negative for a burb. Depending on how much articulation your looking at and how much fender your willing to trim I would say a 2 inch is the minimum.

I daily drove my '89 3/4t suburban on 36"s, 4"lift and no sway bar for years. It was fine.

 

[roostercruiser]

Purdy. I wish mine got 17 MPG. I've got the 4speed manual and it drinks gas

 

[Rovertrader]

Okay, a few more decisions and work done.
Decided on no lift, do the Jeep steering fix which is in route, $35 including shipping-Thanks a ton for the help here!! Keeping the 255/85-16 BFG KM1s for now.
New headliner done, pics to follow.
Decent stereo with amp and sub mounted in rear- amp on side wall and sub in the spare tire well- looks great.
Added 3 power points at base of front console, and added 3 more at amp in rear of truck.
Seats wired up, and all old wiring gutted- apparently from old hard wire cell phone mount.
Exhaust, true duals, being fitted now- to stainless headers. Also, complete tune up complete- hoping for 20 mpg hwy, we'll see...