My built from scratch brutally strong camper shell

kelly1450

Member
I purchased my ‘86 pickup truck a little over two years ago after selling my Jeep Cherokee. I wanted a more economical 4x4 vehicle that was simple and easy to work on. The pickup came from a friend of mines aunt who was the second owner of ten years. After driving it to its new home in the mountains of Southern California; I prepped it for a trip to Colorado. The trip went very well, the economy and the simplicity of the little truck was just what I wanted; above all, I really enjoyed the practicality of the camper shell that came with the truck. I had never owned a truck with a camper shell but had wanted to for the reasons of camping/sleeping, traveling/hauling and most importantly for my chocolate Labrador affectionately known as Pumpkin.

The original camper shell was a Leer placed on the truck when new as the original owner told me, “It was to take her dogs to dog shows along the west coast” it was in good condition for its age and I didn’t see any problems with it until my first desert trip. As of my first desert trip with the truck, I had already been on a numerous adventures with the truck from Colorado to Moab and back, and numerous local 4x4 trails when volunteering for the local National Forest OHV program. I knew that the desert would be the truck and campers greatest test. I have been doing desert trips for a number of years. My friends and I have used our local deserts for recreation, desert racing and general adventuring as we call it; we have learned in that time that nothing will rattle, bounce and violently shake things apart like a spirited drive across the desert.

After the first desert trip it was apparent the truck was good as I had already made some modifications like shocks, tires and springs but the camper shell was another story. All the little cracks that the shell had acquired over its years of use had spread exponentially and it was clear it would not last so I found it a new home. I got a newer shell that I hoped would yield a few years of reliable use, in reality the second shell lasted 5 months. My options were to buy another shell and internally gusset it or build my own shell from scratch. By this point I was over dealing with the lack of integrity traditional camper shells so I opted to build my own.

I decided to build the new shell the only way I knew it would hold up to my abuse. I would build a new shell with a tubular steel frame and aluminum panels just like a desert race vehicle. I did decide to go a different route on the sides, I wanted to be able to remove them if I wanted to and I wanted to have a removable window and screen. I decided on canvas for the sides with removable Lexan windows. After many more hours of fabrication and sewing than I had anticipated (I did teach myself how to sew! Thanks YouTube!) I completed the project, at least for now.

Notes: camper shell seems to be pretty rain proof; I have only hose tested it as I live in sunny SoCal. Even though it may look like water would leak from the roof there is a piece of weather stripping between edge of roof aluminum and the canvas. Camper frame is made of 1 ½ inch .090 wall D.O.M.

Please feel free to ask questions or make constructive criticisms.


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From the Rubicon

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Bullfrog trail without sides on

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first camper shell in Moab a week after purchase of truck.

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kelly1450

Member
here is a picture of my wife and I and then below of the Rubicon group with the dogs including Pumpkin whom the camper was mainly built for:)

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kelly1450

Member
Southpier, the Pumpkin name came from her being born on Halloween first we called her "Cala" as in Calabaza Spanish for Pumpkin but as she got older and her personality developed it was clear she was a Pumpkin, she's pretty much the sweetest dog ever.
 

jonnyquest

Adventurer
I was thinking of doing the same sort of thing for an old Chevy k10. My thought is for the canopy roof to be high enough to sit up inside. Obviously it would have to be higher than the cab. What kind of canvas are you using? I would like to hear how it holds up in the rain. It looks cool. Kinda tactical.
 

evilfij

Explorer
I would have used a tubing bender to put a radius on the bends but it looks functional.

I have to ask why you did not put the canvas under the aluminium too.
 

kelly1450

Member
evilfij, As far as bends go I tried to avoid them for two reasons, one the .090 .083 and .060 wall tubing I used does not like being bent to far before it kinks that's in a JD squared bender the second reason is, tubing bends no matter the thickness make the tubing significantly weaker by stretching the outside radius of the tubing. I used thin tubing because I wanted to keep the weight down as much as possible but not sacrifice strength. The end result is that when I weighed just the skeleton it was 102.0 lbs, plus the weight of the roof and sides which I have not had a chance to weigh I estimate the total weight around 130 lbs.

I originally planed on putting the canvas under the aluminum roof but I decided not to because in practicality it would not be easy take on and off. The main reason was that the roof needed to be held down with bolts and there was no foreseeable way for the bolts to go through the aluminum to the steel frame without putting holes in the canvas thus increasing the difficulty in removal and ripping the canvas. The route I chose with the weather striping that clips into the aluminum and rests against the canvas acts like a rain gutter of sorts moving water to either the front or rear or the camper, with the hose test this appeared to work quite well.

To answer future questions like why not ditch aluminum and use one continuous piece of canvas or why not cover aluminum with a continuous piece of canvas over both sides of camper. the reason I built the covering the way I did was I wanted an aluminum roof that I could stand on, sit on and in the future sleep on, I am planing on making a roof top tent for the camper. the reason I left the void of aluminum on the roof is I believed that I could best make the sides fit nice in tight if they laced up from the top like a shoe which in practice has worked out quite well. most importantly though with the void in the roof it gives me the capability to put hooks up there and hold items down like extra gear and the future the canoe wish to buy.
 
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kelly1450

Member
Johnyquest, The the material I used was military olive drab cotton canvas waxed with Canvak, basically the same material the military used for years to cover vehicles.
 

obolt

New member
Just found this thread, and wanted to say you made a great looking shell! I've been thinking about building something similar for my long bed dodge since I've had the same problems you did with fiberglass shells cracking on previous trucks. You have an estimate on how much tubing you used for the build? I'd like to try and make the same type of steel frame, semi-modular shell but tall enough that I can fit my dirt bike under the roof. Any way you could post some more pics of your frame structure and how you braced/supported the roof and corners?

Great job on your build!
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
evilfij, As far as bends go I tried to avoid them for two reasons, one the .090 .083 and .060 wall tubing I used does not like being bent to far before it kinks that's in a JD squared bender the second reason is, tubing bends no matter the thickness make the tubing significantly weaker by stretching the outside radius of the tubing.

What radius were you pulling? I've never had my JD2 kink anything at any radius I've tried.
 

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