My M716 DIY Build

WilloCo

New member
Allright, I guess I'll start this.
My inspiration here is certainly the turtleback trailer. Great design, overpriced for my needs (and my fabrication abilities)

I'm starting with a Military M716 generator trailer - pintle hitch, towing with my 5th gen Toyota 4runner Trail. (maybe my wifes GX470 some time...)
Trailer is on 8bolt wheels with E rated 285/75r16s (my 4runner is on 285/75r17s)
LED lights, 7 pin harness and a tool/battery box is installed.
trailer-m716.jpg
The trailer as I bought it. I've pulled hte aluminum risers off - there was a cracked weld and they aren't useful for my build.

I'm going to call this a semi-budget build. I'm not afraid to buy parts, I tend to keep the budget via the DIY bit.

Next bit:
I have an ARB Simpson tent that was rammed into a garage that I picked up for cheap on CL last year.
I ordered parts to fix it up this week.
  • New Ladder (it was gone)
  • Mounting hardware (includes ladder hinge bits)
  • Waterproof Cover (also gone)
  • Hinges (bent)
I skipped the mounting extrusions, it saved $70 and I'm gong to build custom mounting bars.
The only remaining issue is some damage to the ABS/Foam base where the mounting bolts pulled out. If I fail at repairs, I'll buy a new base for $360 or so.

Today I visited the steel shop and made some plans. After visiting I made a spreadsheet for the cuts I need. I'm going to head down there again before the weekend and grab steel with my truck.

I also ordered a Dometic CFX95DZW. It'll get a dedicated slide in the camper and may get transferred to my 4runner for grocery getting (We live in the mountains, big stores are an hour away in most cases)

doing research, I've found a nice folding faucet and I'm thinking of using a normal stainless sink from HD rather than a camper sink.
For water, I'm looking at around 40 gallons of water, I want extra for moronic camp fires. I almost always find them and fires are a huge risk where I live.

Current design in my head is as follows:
  • Build a 72longx48widex42tall box
  • ARB RTT mounted on top of the box
  • Build a sub box for the water reservoir and insulate it
  • Add a on demand water heater for dishes/heading the water res - I camp later in the year and want to keep that water from freezing during hunting season.
  • Shelf for my big cooler (in the vain hope that I actually get an elk/deer at some point.
  • Slide out shelf for the big Dometic fridge/freezer
  • 2x AGM batteries
  • Solar panel to maintain the batts when the trailer is parked/sunny camping (I have a spare controller from my RV(that I don't use for long distance trips)
  • Fold out Kitchen counter/sink
  • 12v water res heater for use with shore power/towing on cooooold days.
  • Shore power controller
  • Maybe a heater of some sort to warm the RTT - I've seen some good ideas
  • Rhinorack 270 awning, add walls at some point
  • leveling jacks on all corners (that can be driven with a cordless drill/ratchet)
  • Extra receiver hitch points
  • Spare tire carrier
  • Fold down stainless table - the steel shop has lots of stainless
I'm planning to weld the box this weekend, chose the dometic so I can size the slide.
I'll be a bit organic on the details - I've found that I often have better ideas by letting the develop during builds.

So yeah, I'm stoked, the trailer tows great, I pulled the tent out of storage and I earned like 4x amex points on my fridge/freezer order.
My current goal is to get a box built, start fleshing out compartments and have a usable trailer for hunting season this year.
At a minimum, that's going to be the box, rtt mounts, fridge slide and a battery or two.
 

WilloCo

New member
Some tent parts arrived today - I can see why the cover is so expensive - it's a heavy beast.
I decided on a Freezer Fridge - The rather massive Dometic CFX 95. It's huge, but my wife and I love good food.
Reviews are great for this series and the flexibility of having a fridge AND a freezer is fantastic. I forsee happy ice cream eating people on hot camp outs in my future.

I also spent some time designing a frame using 1.5" 16 guage steel.
The frame will mount to the trailer and extend over the wheel wheels about 6 inches on each side.
This will keep the edges open for standing on. The Kitchen will be on the drivers side and the tent will open to the passenger side.
I figure on a top opening kitchen panel for normal weather and the 270 awning for longer term camping - top open kitchen 'roof' will protect the tent from rising stove heat as well.
A passenger side panel - just like the kitchen, will allow for storage of whatever.
I'm also figuring on a catalyst panel heater on the side. Current thinking is that heat would rise up the annex and into the tent.
 

WilloCo

New member
Picked up steel today, planning to build out my frame over the weekend.
5 24 foot 1.5x1.5 16 guage hot roll square tube steel pieces. I figured on about 4 but grabbed an extra for creative bits.
1 20 foot 1.5x1.5 1/8 inch angle - This'll save me square tube along the bottom of the frame to the trailer and I can use to for shelf bracketing.

Back to working on cad designs for tonight but things are starting to come together.
 

WilloCo

New member
f6O6oXH.jpg

Got the main body of the new box together today. Tomorrow I need to pull some bolts that are in the way, double check for squareness and finish welding joints that are tack welded. After that I'll work on the steel that'll run along the wheel wells and make my final decision on where the kitchen will end up.
 

WilloCo

New member
XRwCzzv.jpg

I put together some inch and a half angle to run along the trailer bed and up the fender wells. Then I ran full length box along the top of the fender wells. The wells aren't quite level but I went for a better fit across the wells for now. There's a good half inch drop front to rear on the passenger side but the frame fits the trailer very nicely.

After serious consideration of making my own slider, I tossed the idea and ordered a slide for my mega dometic today.
gander outdoors has a labor day coupon so it was only $220 with tax/shipping vs $260-300 elsewhere.
After bouncing ideas off my daughter a bit, we decided the the best place for the fridge is to slide out the back - why? So we can easily access it in parking lots.
 

WilloCo

New member
The slide showed up today, but there is an issue with it. It doesn't extend the cooler beyond the end of the slide base.
There's a significant flaw in the design of the slider: It doesn't extend past the mounted base. Fine for vehicles but not so good for a trailer where it needs to slide out past the edge of the trailer body!

Not the end of the world, I waited for it to show up before committing to the design requirements.

Still working on circuit lists and other bits... More to come.
 

WilloCo

New member
Back from travel and looking at my next steps.
I'm planning on making door panels and am thinking of some composite work...

For my door panels, I'm thinking of using 3/4 square tube along with foam filler and skinning both sides with aluminum trailer siding.
This will create a strong, light, solid door panel in each case. For the extra long kitchen door, I'll add a few 3/4 square tube ribs.
For the door openings, I'm thinking I'll run some 1/2 to 3/4 angle iron and use hole welding to attach them to the 1 1/2 inch tubing.
This will create a good sealing surface to keep things dry.
 

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