My new F-450 Build

[norcal*PWRstroke]

Love the truck, purchase price and your vision for it! I also respect your views on life money debt and freedom. My truck is a 6 speed 4x4 as well. I have about 20K zero loans and 5 years time into the whole setup including the Lance camper, but I only paid 10k for the truck. Cant wait to see the build as it moves forward. I am 30 years young so not too much older than you.
goodluck and pm me with any questions you have on the 7.3 platform. I do all my own work on everything, know the 7.3 well!

 

[adam88]

Good on ya! All the guys who say you can't do something are merely saying they can't. Probably because they won't get off the couch.

Yeah because all you need to do is "get off the couch" to build your own earthroamer for $30,000.

 

[stoverjoe]

30k tends to go a long way toward making a rig LOOK worthy of any destination, but genuine functionality gets expensive fast. Not saying it not possible on 30k, but it will take smart budgeting.

 

[justbecause]

I dont think 30k and a few months is unreasonable.
full size campers on on craigslist for around 1k, in a "needs TLC" state, and ones ready to camp can be found for less than 10k.

I wouldnt waste any money changing to coils, I also wouldnt consider running anything over a 35, are you planning on taking this over the rubicon?

a 450 is what i would want for my base truck. and if i found a 4x4 7.3 4 door for less than 5k i would have bought it in a second. You just dont see those around my area, I guess I'll have to start looking at texas craigslist.

these are probably the two best pop-up threads going right now, IMHO. http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...arcraft-Pine-Mountain-Lonestar-Pop-top-Camper

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/153441-The-Bowman-Odyssey-Rig

I have first hand experience with bio-diesel, across 3 different vehicles, and it was nothing but trouble for every single one of them. I would not run veggie-oil in a vehicle. I know there are a thousand people on the internet who swear its the greatest thing ever, but that was not our experience.

 

[dumprat]

Yeah because all you need to do is "get off the couch" to build your own earthroamer for $30,000.

If he already has the truck and willing to do the work himself I am sure it can be done.

You can get old motor home where I am for super cheap or free. Most come complete right down to the dishes.
Look at highway truck wreckers. Sleeper components are very light, nicely made and could form the interior of a camper easy. And the corrugated aluminum panels are neat as well. They also rivet together and will attach to a welded thin wall tube without a lot of grief.

Used mil spec take off tires were mentioned. A cheap and effective way to go.

You are only limited my your imagination and ambition.

 

[War_Wagon]

I'm not much older than you (27), working on a very similar plan on a 2001 f350 platform. I am married and its pretty rad.

If you think you will make a scratch build self sufficient rig in 3 months for 30k including the price to get the 450 up to snuff, thats a big push. I think I was in the same overly ambitious boat about 6 months ago in the initial concept stages.

If you are planning on modifying an existing platform, like an alaskan or a uhaul box or something, you might have a shot at it in three months. But for a nice scratch built tube frame chassis with sheet metal skin, expect maybe 6 months and 20k plus for the camper build alone, no ford parts involved. It took me a month to build my three point mount and start to get aluminum on the truck.

Things I would consider.

• Pick one project. If you are going to build a camper, dont worry about your truck interior. Do that second.
• 37" BFG Baja TA's on 16.5" HMMWV wheels are about your only option for big military beadlocks given your budget. They are cheap and they work.
• Don't forget the cost to paint or finish whatever you make.
• Galvanic corrosion. If you dont know about it, look it up.
• 3 point mount. Your frame is gonna flex a bunch, if you are using aluminum (brittle) you might experience major stresses.
• Old RV stuff will work, but you will be amazed at how poorly its made.. if you are building a nice rig, you wont want to finish it with stapled particle board.

Regardless, its a fun project. Let me know if you have any questions I can help with.

I appreciate your input and have read through your entire build. Impressive stuff! The problem with the HMMWV have is the bolt pattern. It was probably much easier to find adapter for your rig because you have the 170 bolt pattern. This big 450 has the 225 8 lug, and adapters, spacers, and rims are much harder to come by. However, I would be happy with you wheel set up, on 37" with a 4" lift. Let's get real, these super duties with a huge diesel isn't going to be the most useful off the road, but that seems to be enough to access anything I want to access, my 2 stroke Kawasaki will take me the rest of the way. I really like your build and I'm super impressed with your use of auto desk fusion 360. I downloaded it and am learning to use it.

I believe I will handle the interior over the next year while in still working, that's a project I can take care or of over a few weekends. I will also be designing, planning and accumulating parts in this time period,m. By the time I start on it full time, I intend to have the truck complete with everything but a paint job.

As far as galvanic corrosion, I know what it is and am aware, but what exactly is your point? I'd like to learn as much as possible from people like you to avoid mistakes.

The old RV parts I plan to use for the most part will be the unseen. I'm in construction and the finish out plan will be using home materials, such as laminate plank floor, tile backsplash etc.

I may steel your design for he three point mount!

Solid set up my friend

 

[gmacmt]

I appreciate your input and have read through your entire build. Impressive stuff! The problem with the HMMWV have is the bolt pattern. It was probably much easier to find adapter for your rig because you have the 170 bolt pattern. This big 450 has the 225 8 lug, and adapters, spacers, and rims are much harder to come by. However, I would be happy with you wheel set up, on 37" with a 4" lift. Let's get real, these super duties with a huge diesel isn't going to be the most useful off the road, but that seems to be enough to access anything I want to access, my 2 stroke Kawasaki will take me the rest of the way. I really like your build and I'm super impressed with your use of auto desk fusion 360. I downloaded it and am learning to use it.

The way I see it, the super duties are really big trucks. In order to maintain decent breakover angles, especially on a crew cab. 37" tires on a 23 foot long truck are pretty different than 33" tires on an 18' long truck. Plus the used (or even brand new old stock) military BFG baja TA will be cheaper than any store bought name brand 33-35 you can buy. I had the wheel adapters custom machined, they are not an off the shelf part. Motorsport tech could make a set for you pretty easily, you would just need to tell them what you want.

Also, to address an earlier point someone else made, switching to 2005+ coils might be a really nice thing. I have been thinking about doing it a lot. The turning circle on these things are horrendous with the front leafs. The only thing that is keeping me from making the switch right now is that I already bought the adapters and 16.5" wheels, and to fit 16.5's on a 05+ you have to grind brake calipers. The 05+ also ride waaaay better.

As far as galvanic corrosion, I know what it is and am aware, but what exactly is your point? I'd like to learn as much as possible from people like you to avoid mistakes.

Your truck is steel, and you cabin will be aluminum. So you need to make sure your interfaces will not corrode. And if you use fasteners on the aluminum (even in the interior) you need to keep in mind the potential for corrosion. Zinc plated stuff, and stainless (more corrosion resistant than zinc, but weaker and $$) tend to work pretty well. A lot of old RVs use steel in their construction, so that is something to think about too.

 

[Duramax]

Sounds like fun

This is a very cool idea! Have you thought about buying an aluminum framed camper from Copart or some auction and doing a full modification. In my experience it is always the little stuff that throughs the timeline and budget off(ie. hose fittings wiring switches power systems) it seams like starting with a working base then modifying mite stretch the $$$ a lot further.
Just a thought.
-Josh

 

[Nathaniel0712]

I am your same age as well with a similar truck (01 7.3 350 6speed - building a custom trailer for it now which is dirt cheap, simple and nearing completion on a $2500 budget) Ideally I'd stick a utility body on it with a four wheel camper or some other sort of solid truck camper, dirt bike on the back and hit the road but I'm not there yet. I'll eventually sell the trailer and do this.
Nice to see there are a few other guys my age out there. Not a college grad but its a goal for one day. Have a great job - run an auto repair shop - and have a few side gigs. My goal is to save up about 50K, quit my job and travel the U.S. for a year+ keeping to the major attractions and smaller towns. Getting there and figure I've got about another year or two of work. I'd love to end up in the U.P. or Montana/Wyoming/Idaho.


Two quick things:

I've owned and repaired many 7.3's - STAY AWAY from veggie oil. These HEUI systems do not like the glycerin and other byproducts in the veggie oil as well as its corrosive properties. Small amounts of bio are fine but for long term durability still with good ol' diesel fuel. While a great cost saving idea it isn't in the long run. Another thing to note is you should start using ARCH oil - very good stuff. My 2000 7.3 ran rough when cold, idled like **** and has 309,000 with no injection work. Changed the HPOP oil and regular oil, added ARCH oil and use it religiously and the truck runs incredibly smooth - all injectors are back up to par and its been that way ever since. It's a 2 part system fuel & oil, $ 100.00 per oil change and works wonders in the 7.3 and 6.0. Try it.

Next up - the 05+ coil swap while not a priority is actually quite simple and a very good upgrade. You'll want a donor as you can harvest all the 2005+ components (steering gear down) and they will bolt right up with some extra holes drilled. I am in the process of finding a donor chassis for my 01 although I just did front brakes and ball joints to keep her working so I'm not in a he rush. The leaf spring suspensions are actually quite good and realistically you are not going to be going on super technical trails in a 10,000LB+ rig. If you find a CC Lariat donor you'll definitely want to jump on it as it'll kill 2 bird with one stone.


Check out this thread - It has inspired my ultimate vehicle and is along the lines of what you intend to do. I do understand that truck campers are not the most solid units out there.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...per-The-Super-Trailer-Blue-Collar-Earthroamer

 

[War_Wagon]

I've owned and repaired many 7.3's - STAY AWAY from veggie oil. These HEUI systems do not like the glycerin and other byproducts in the veggie oil as well as its corrosive properties. Small amounts of bio are fine but for long term durability still with good ol' diesel fuel. While a great cost saving idea it isn't in the long run. Another thing to note is you should start using ARCH oil - very good stuff. My 2000 7.3 ran rough when cold, idled like **** and has 309,000 with no injection work. Changed the HPOP oil and regular oil, added ARCH oil and use it religiously and the truck runs incredibly smooth - all injectors are back up to par and its been that way ever since. It's a 2 part system fuel & oil, $ 100.00 per oil change and works wonders in the 7.3 and 6.0. Try it.

Next up - the 05+ coil swap while not a priority is actually quite simple and a very good upgrade. You'll want a donor as you can harvest all the 2005+ components (steering gear down) and they will bolt right up with some extra holes drilled. I am in the process of finding a donor chassis for my 01 although I just did front brakes and ball joints to keep her working so I'm not in a he rush. The leaf spring suspensions are actually quite good and realistically you are not going to be going on super technical trails in a 10,000LB+ rig. If you find a CC Lariat donor you'll definitely want to jump on it as it'll kill 2 bird with one stone.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...per-The-Super-Trailer-Blue-Collar-Earthroamer

Thanks for the advise. I believe you've steered me far away from veggie oil. It sounds like a PITA to deal with and the last thing I want is a rough running diesel.

As for the front end conversion, I am still considering it but it is not at the top of the list. Even if I convert it over, I still feel like I will need a few acres to turn the rig around. Plus, I dont want to deal with having twp different bolt patterns on the truck due to the axle swap.

Update to the truck:

New 135 amp alternator
new temp sensor
New flex fan
New fan clutch
fixed the transmission leak
Changed transmission fluid
new water pump (I kid you not, there was an entire shop rag inside the water pump)
Changed the oil
Changed both fuel filters
vacuumed down and recharged the AC (It works!)
Got it aligned

Coming up:
rebuilding the seals in the fuel filter on top of the motor as it leaks
Ball joints
Service front and rear end
Change rear pinion seals
Change U joints
Swap out the rusty fenders
Front grill and bumper swap
Add the second alternator

After this, she will be ready to hit the highway and haul a few trailers in the meantime

ALSO,

I have decided to go with the route of buying a cabover camper and modifying it. I am looking at getting a slightly older (2000-2005) full length lance cabover camper with a slide out, welding up a custom mounting frame and building custom storage boxes where the fenderwell cut outs are. I believe this option will be cheaper, easier, better, more roomy on the inside bc of the slideout, and more storage space than I would with a custom camper without a slide. I will then remodel the entire inside of the camper to my liking. Thoughts?

 

[Seabass]

I like it!

 

[gmacmt]

As for the front end conversion, I am still considering it but it is not at the top of the list. Even if I convert it over, I still feel like I will need a few acres to turn the rig around. Plus, I dont want to deal with having twp different bolt patterns on the truck due to the axle swap.

Drive a new truck first, and then get back to me on that one. The coil front end on a CCLB will turn like a leaf sprung extra cab short bed. And ride better to boot, I should have never driven my buddies 2015. Also, if you swap the front you can swap the rear even easier and keep the same bolt pattern. Just something to keep in mind.

I have decided to go with the route of buying a cabover camper and modifying it. I am looking at getting a slightly older (2000-2005) full length lance cabover camper with a slide out, welding up a custom mounting frame and building custom storage boxes where the fenderwell cut outs are. I believe this option will be cheaper, easier, better, more roomy on the inside bc of the slideout, and more storage space than I would with a custom camper without a slide. I will then remodel the entire inside of the camper to my liking. Thoughts?

I think that is super smart to work with an existing camper. I am ~2 months of SOLID work on my shell alone, including design. If you plan on going offroad, make sure the slide out is going to be strong enough to hold up.

 

[War_Wagon]

Update - Camper purchase

I wanted to update you guys on the camper purchase. I caught a good deal on craigslist that I just could not pass up. The photo should be attached (that is not my truck in the photo). I bought a 2001 lance 1121 cabover with a slideout for $5,000! For the most part, these are worth around 12k to 15k. The good, virtually everything works on it except the generator. The bad, it is a wood frame model and not an aluminum frame, so it has some structural issues around the slideout and some rot in that same area where there is a tear in the filon and water has entered the wall cavity. Taking into account I am going to strip and paint the whole thing, I don't believe these repairs should be too intensive but we will see. I am also in construction and should be the right guy for the job. I get that the wood frame is going to be a little heavy, but couple extra hundred pounds really wont make much of a difference when it come to the 13k pounds this rig will weigh. It has a working shower, AC Unit, sink, stereo, awning. I got the generator running for a few days but it lost compression and will need a new cylinder head, it is currently in the works. It is a rear entry unit, which I don't prefer as I wanted a side entry one, but for the price, I believe it was worth the sacrifice. I now have a running and driving 4x4 f450 7.3 and a decent cabover camper for $10,000. With another $15,000 to spend on parts, upgrades and body work, I really think I will make this work for 25k. What do y'all think?

 

[dtimms]

That will be a fun rig! Nice big camper, lots of room. The front end work on that truck is pretty straight forward. Enjoy man, that's what life is all about.

 

[back woods]

Well, hoping you have good luck with the camper. A water damaged truck camper can be a huge headache. A few years ago I bought a Travel Lite 10.5ft camper for my F700, it was a good deal with just a touch of noticeable water damage (small bubble). Ended up costing me $6000 to get it back up to snuff, the gelcoat is a pain in the *** to work with and be very careful with water damage around the slide. Lance has been known for having major structural failure around the slide in the wood models. One more thing to check out is the roof and the self leveling sealant. You sound like a jack of all trades like myself but you have been warned. It can get bad, quick. Good luck with the build.