My Salisbury diff mesh pattern so far

[James86004]

This is after 2 iterations, both of which adjusted the carrier bearings. I think I need to tweak the pinion a tad.

 

[michaels]

looks too high on the towards the outer edge of the ring gear. the placement in the center of the tooth looks pretty decent though.

 

[Snagger]

I'm going to overhaul a Salisbury axle I just bought for my 109. The diff seems OK by hand, but I haven't opened it up yet. If the play between the pinion and crown wheel is excessive, but the pinion bearings are fine, can I just shim the diff carrier across to engage more tightly on the pinion and leave the pinion itself well alone, or will that need shimming too?

 

[muskyman]

way to much compound to really read the pattern.

what is that lithium grease?

go to a GM dealer and get the yellow GM stuff it will be way easier to read.

 

[Mercedesrover]

way to much compound to really read the pattern.

what is that lithium grease?

go to a GM dealer and get the yellow GM stuff it will be way easier to read.

+1.

Pinion looks too close to me.

There is a really good instructional .PDF on Yukon Gear's site.

Here's what my pattern looked like in the 109:

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'm going to overhaul a Salisbury axle I just bought for my 109. The diff seems OK by hand, but I haven't opened it up yet. If the play between the pinion and crown wheel is excessive, but the pinion bearings are fine, can I just shim the diff carrier across to engage more tightly on the pinion and leave the pinion itself well alone, or will that need shimming too?

In my opinion, that's just a band aid, and a somewhat ineffective one at that. I would replace the pinion bearings and seal while you're in there and then see what the pattern is like. Better to do it now than to have to break open the axle later.

 

[muskyman]

In my opinion, that's just a band aid, and a somewhat ineffective one at that. I would replace the pinion bearings and seal while you're in there and then see what the pattern is like. Better to do it now than to have to break open the axle later.

I have to disagree...once the gears are broken in and run its better to not touch them.

If you need to to do the pinion bearing you should run a pattern and then restore it to that pattern. If the first pattern was not perfect and then you change it the gears will make noise for sure.

The Dana 60 gears are very robust and the pinion bearings are not a very common failure point unless the pinion is pointed to the sky for a stupid tall lift. I would bet that wont be the case in a 109.

I say leave the set up alone unless there is a clear issue with the diff or you are going to a locker. and if you are going to the locker, I would replicate the original pattern the best you can and that should not be tough because the pinion stays put.

 

[Mercedesrover]

Yeah, I agree with Musky on this one. Don't try to change the pattern on a used set of gear of they'll surely make noise. And I'd rather have gears a little loose than a little tight.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Ditto on what Musky and Mercedes said. One addition though. If the diff has been running on bad bearings too long the gears could be junk. If you try to copy a poor original pattern then you will end up with a poor refurb'd pattern. If the pattern is poor to begin with then it's a good indicator that the gears are most likely bad.

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'll buy that. I was just thinking that adjusting the pattern to account for worn bearings is a bad way to go. I usually only change carrier bearings because they've sat with water in the diff and have rusted (neglect/junkyard). If the carrier bearings are pitted, usually the pinion bearings are bad as well. Your mileage may vary.

The Dana 60/Salisbury is such a beefy design that barring that, I would just replace the seals/wheel bearings (if necessary) and run that sucker.

 

[James86004]

way to much compound to really read the pattern.

what is that lithium grease?

go to a GM dealer and get the yellow GM stuff it will be way easier to read.

The compound is the stuff the local hot rod shop sold me. I don't know what it is, but it is not lithium grease - more like a paint. Perhaps I should dilute it with some oil. I will try to get a better picture for you - it looks better in person than in the photo.

Pinion looks too close to me.

There is a really good instructional .PDF on Yukon Gear's site.

I used Billavista's write up: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

However, the Yukon one states that since this is a used gear set, I should be paying attention to the coast side only. Would you concur?

 

[I Leak Oil]

However, the Yukon one states that since this is a used gear set, I should be paying attention to the coast side only. Would you concur?

That's because the coast side is usually in far better (less worn) condition to read. Yukon, if they didn't already, should suggest that you still take a pre-teardown pattern reading on the coast side and match it upon reassembly.

 

[James86004]

That's because the coast side is usually in far better (less worn) condition to read. Yukon, if they didn't already, should suggest that you still take a pre-teardown pattern reading on the coast side and match it upon reassembly.

I see. Unfortunately, that did not happen, since these gears came out of a diff on the other side of the Atlantic and were given to me for the price of shipping. You can see the wear in them, but you have to really look hard with a good light, and I have so far been unable to photograph it. On the drive side, it definitely looks a little close to the root of the ring gear teeth.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Oh I see, then you really have no alternative than to do what you're doing and hope for the best. Yes it is too close to the root.

 

[ntsqd]

I *think* that I asked this once before, but I've slept since then and have no memory of any answer. Can the U.S. Dana 60 gear sets be used in these axles?