My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Since there is so many folks here that don't ever get over to mud, I thought I would cross post my trailer build and get the opinions of non-Land Cruiser owners.

Enjoy!

Here we GO!

After nearly 9 months of planning, designing and gathering parts, I am ready to start my scratch built, homemade trailer for expedition/camping style travel. I have been greatly inspired by this site and www.ih8mud.com to make this thing. Special thanks to Exiled, Cruiseroutfit, Brownbear, Wesintl, and AxleIke for helping me out this far.


My Goal:

To create a small capable trailer that will be able to chase my fj40 over trails rated up to 3.5, and allow my wife and I to enjoy some of the modern conveniences of a small pop up trailer. We want to see all that Colorado, and Utah have to offer, and the rear end of a fj40 just doesn’t lend to multi-day camping/wheeling trips.


My Design Criteria:

Strength to match the fj40 without killing our lightweight approach.
Simple, in both operation and design.
FJ40 Cruiser track width.
3500# axle.
Matching wheels and tires to tow vehicle. (35” MTR’s)
6x5.5”hubs
Roof Top Tent.
On board Air (CO2).
On board 12v Power.
On board LPG.
On board Water.
On board shower and sink.
On board kitchen.
Multi-hitch options, pintle and ball hitch.
Must be smurf blue with a white top.:wings:


Building verses Buying:

After months of research, advice and searching, I decided to scratch build my trailer for a several reasons:
1. Most of the trailers I looked at needed heavy modifications to get them to do what I am wanting from a trailer. Take the m101 trailers from Canada. They are SWEET little trailers with a proven track record, and are nearly bomb proof. However, by the time I add a lid, extend the tongue, swap the hubs, buy new wheels, and install a tailgate, I could be well on my way to building one. Not to mention the time smoothing dents or repairing rust. I am NOT saying this is a bad way to go, but after comparing the cost of tracking one of these trailers down, adding shipping to my house, repairing, and modifying it, I can easily build my own. There isn’t that much to one of these little trailers.
2. Cost, I will come out ahead of buying a professionally built unit like the Adventure Trailer (though they are one of the finest trailers I have ever seen). All said and done, I should come in right around the cost of a modified m101 or m416.
3. I love to build things! This project will be as much about the journey as the end product. I work with people for a living and to be able to work with my hands is a MUST in my free time. It will take longer and most likely cost a bit more than expected but in the end I will love building this thing from scratch.
4. I can do it right… MY WAY :D, and only do it once, instead of modifying over and over as things go along…yeah right, is anything every really finished?


My Design:

I picked up one of those Mombassa Tents when they were going like hotcakes last fall. That inspired me to look into a trailer, have always wanted one, but the RTT got the ball rolling.

I am planning on a main cargo box and a two drawer sliding system with a lid on top. One drawer will be a slide out kitchen and storage, while the other side will be gear storage. The RTT will go on top of the lid, really nothing new to the trailer world, but hey, if it ain’t broke… I will have a tailgate and under bed storage for hard spares (axles and such) that don’t need to be accessed often.

The chassis will be a simple ladder frame made from 2x3x.120” tubing. I will have a 3x3x.25” tube as the main drawbar, with a 2.5x2.5x.5” tube that can adjust its overall length and connect to the hitch.

Doodles are worth 999 words so here are a few, the first pic shows the (rough) final frame design. The second pic is of the drawer concept and what the trailer should resemble when finished.
 

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Rezarf <><

Explorer
Today I mocked up the axle. I needed to get some hard measurements before starting to cut and weld. I got my axle from Randy at www.abctrailerparts.com they are a great business and I highly recommend them. I wanted to see what kind of clearance I needed between the axle spring perches and the inside of the tire. It looks as though I will have a 42” wide frame and clear the tires with room to spare. These springs don’t flex all that much like vehicles suspension. The hitch will do most of the articulating.

Here is a pic of all the parts with the kit, and a shot of how I taped off the axle to make my measured lines a bit easier to see. I also used a few 2x4’s to mock up the frame width to aid in measuring.
 

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Rezarf <><

Explorer
A run to the local steel yard netted all the steel needed for the chassis.

I am using:

2 x 3 x .125” for the cross members, the frame side rails, and the triangulating tongue supports.

2 x 4 x .125” for the rear bumper.

3 x 3 x .25” for the main tongue (chassis portion).

2.5 x 2.5 x .25” for the extendable tongue.

You can see in the pics how the lunette fits into the 2.5” material easily, and then it slides into the 3” material as well. MikeS gets credit for the idea here, thanks Mike! This will also allow me to slide a 2” ball coupler as well. I like this for the simple reason that I can drive the trailer in relative peace on the way to the trail, then let the banging begin once at the trail head, simply by swapping out the coupler for the lunette. I will use standard hitch pins for quick and easy swapping.

Does it look like a trailer yet?
 

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Rezarf <><

Explorer
I have a crazy summer travel schedule so progress will be slow, but I welcome your comments/suggestions.

THanks!

Drew
 

Willman

Active member
:clapsmile

I'm liking all these trailer builds going on!!!

Your trailer plan look great...are you going to do trailer brakes on your trailer???

Keep us posted!! Looks like a great build! Keep up the great work!!!

:)
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
I have no plans for brakes at the moment. This thing should come in around 1100# fully loaded up. I plan on converting the fj40 to rear disks however ;)

My axle has the flanges prewelded for brakes if I decide down the road the brakes need some help.

Thanks for the compliments!

Drew
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
I got to sneak a little more work in on the trailer today. I got the hitch figured out. My fj40 has a home made tire carrier/bumper combo that I made last year to get a 35” spare out of my rear bed. I planned on using a pintle/hitch combo that I have used for years, but failed to realize that the pintle had to swing open to allow connection of the coupler… bummer.

Anyhow, I am getting around this by adding a 4” square section of structural steel that has a 3/8” wall… this thing is beefy. I will add a ¼” piece of plate steel behind the cross member to stiffen it up as well.

I finally got to use my drill press that I got last year for Christmas, woo-hoo! Makes drilling a ton easier, especially in the thicker material.

Here are a few shots of the rear carrier and a close up of why the pintle wouldn’t work as is. I will remove the shackle mount and probably attach it to the rear of the trailer for extraction.

…and here is a link to my bumper build up as well:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=75040
 

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Last edited:

spressomon

Expedition Leader
Rezarf <>< said:
I have no plans for brakes at the moment. This thing should come in around 1100# fully loaded up. I plan on converting the fj40 to rear disks however ;)

My axle has the flanges prewelded for brakes if I decide down the road the brakes need some help.

Thanks for the compliments!

Drew


Based on my experiences with/without trailer brakes on my AT...you'll add them eventually. They make a HUGE difference on and off road!
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I really like the drawer idea.

Two suggestions on build details:
1) Cut a ~1/2" long section of the 3" & weld it onto the end of the 2.5" tube where the coupler slides in. The idea is to make it harder for the tube to bell-mouth over time.
2) Put the shackle deal on a slider, and then put a socket receiver on the rear of the trailer. This way you can use the shackle dealie elsewhere and also be able to pop a portable winch into the rear of the trailer if necessary.
 

24HOURSOFNEVADA

Expedition Leader
I've been watching this on mud since your first post. I really like where you have ended up. Again...your sketches are great.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
ntsqd said:
I really like the drawer idea.

Two suggestions on build details:
1) Cut a ~1/2" long section of the 3" & weld it onto the end of the 2.5" tube where the coupler slides in. The idea is to make it harder for the tube to bell-mouth over time.
2) Put the shackle deal on a slider, and then put a socket receiver on the rear of the trailer. This way you can use the shackle dealie elsewhere and also be able to pop a portable winch into the rear of the trailer if necessary.

Thanks, I am planning on doing the first suggestion for sure. However, in the rear, under the main cargo box I am going to build a swing down door with my spare parts, like axles, hubs, drive flanges... This does a few things it allows the COG to be lowered (even if just a few pounds) and I won't use that space otherwise, and they are out of the way for everyday use. So, I don't know if the receiver will work or not yet.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Drew
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
24HOURSOFNEVADA said:
I've been watching this on mud since your first post. I really like where you have ended up. Again...your sketches are great.


Thanks! Your rig and trailer are something to shoot for!

:wings:

Drew
 

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