My virgin birfield repacking/knuckle fixing odyssey

[ChuckB]

I decided to start a thread on this particular procedure, as I could not find anything specifically on this forum. I hope to organzie as much information as possible on this thread so that other noobies like myself will be able to easily find this information. I know that there is tons of information and experience on the web and I'm going to attempt to localize some of it here along with additional comments from those experienced souls that frequent this excellent site. Hopefully, this can serve as a quasi-FAQ. My initial questions

Without rehashing step-by-step precedures. I have found the following websites to be very helpful with both instructions and illustrating the process.

Birfield repack 80-series
Birfield removal Basics
Axel Overhaul
Which grease to use for which parts?
Knuckle rebuilding tips
Noisy Birfields

As I do more research I will continue to update this thread. Please feel free to add any information not covered or correct any discrepancies.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Most Cruiser knuckles have a thick crust of grease and dirt on the back side. Oven cleaner will cut the grease off the outside of the knuckles. Spray it on wait a while and hose it off, repeat as required you may need to help it along with a wire brush. Rinse well when you are done.

Use toilet paper to clean the old grease out of the inside of the knuckles and birfields. I learned this on my 40 knuckle swap and used the same trick to clean the CV joints when replacing the boots on my 100 CV axles.


You will be amazed at how well these two tips work.

 

[ntsqd]

A Birfield is a CV joint, so a CV joint appropriate grease is called for.

FWIW I use Redline CV Joint Grease in both the Birf's and the wheel bearings. CV Joint grease is both an EP (Extreme Pressure) and a high heat suitable grease.

 

[ChuckB]

Thanks for the tips, that's exactly the information I'm looking for!!

 

[rusty_tlc]

A Birfield is a CV joint, so a CV joint appropriate grease is called for.

FWIW I use Redline CV Joint Grease in both the Birf's and the wheel bearings. CV Joint grease is both an EP (Extreme Pressure) and a high heat suitable grease.

I use water proof boat trailer axle grease on the FJ40 Birfields, but they see a more frequent service schedule than most people follow.

On the 100 CV axles I used the grease that came in the Toyota Boot Service kit.

 

[ntsqd]

new thread

Re: Boat Trailer Grease
Based on my experience I wouldn't use it even with frequent service intervals. YMMV....

 

[cruiser guy]

Anti-sieze on the cone washers, you'll thank yourself next time you need to tear it down.

 

[Fantom]

Anti-sieze on the cone washers, you'll thank yourself next time you need to tear it down.

Hi Charles,
I agree with that.
After my last incident I decided to do a little test, granted this is going to be a PIA to take apart but I was curious. On the last heavy off-road trip I got water in my knuckle, and the rebuild was only about a year old, so the felt and rubber seals were still decent. So I decided to close off every high risk area with either a thin layer of silicone or gasket seal. I know this will make it twice as hard to take off, especially on the trail but I want to see if it will make a difference on the next serious river crossing. I'll let you know. As for grease, I use (can't remember the name) a grey high temp wheel bearing grease. I know it is nothing special or "water proof" but I've used it for the past 3 years and I have not seen significant damage to any bearings. When I have a chance I will grab the name.

 

[KevinNY]

You might want to check out the CV grease sold for Land Rover swivel balls, a semi liquid moly grease perfect for the job. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC3435S.cfm

 

[rusty_tlc]

Re: Boat Trailer Grease
Based on my experience I wouldn't use it even with frequent service intervals. YMMV....

Interesting.
Were you using Teflon (PTFE) filled product?

 

[ntsqd]

Interesting.
Were you using Teflon (PTFE) filled product?

No, just the cheep Sta-Lube product. It's waterproofness was highly over rated. It would be very unfair to condemn all marine greases based on that, but the CVJ grease I now use is far superior in that respect as well as having other better properties.

 

[rusty_tlc]

No, just the cheep Sta-Lube product. It's waterproofness was highly over rated. It would be very unfair to condemn all marine greases based on that, but the CVJ grease I now use is far superior in that respect as well as having other better properties.

For the 100 I'll stick with the OEM grease, for $25 an axle you get boots and enough grease to fill both ends. Plus you get some real hokey clamps. When I repacked my the rig had +140k miles on it and I'm sure they were never serviced. There was no visible wear in the races or balls.

Since the 40 sees very few highway miles and those at fairly low speed I feel comfortable with the Teflon filled marine grease. Re-packing the birf's is on my list of winter PM's when I get to them I'll post up here with a report on how they look.

 

[ntsqd]

Hard to go wrong with the OE stuff. Used to use the VW OE stuff in other vehicles until it became hard to get from the local dealer.

I'm interested to see what the 40's Birf's look like. Part of the reason I use the Redline in Patch is that he sees many hiway miles and when inspected those wheel bearings have always looked new.

 

[ChuckB]

Tools!!

Below is a list of tools that I have compiled from the various links/posts provided in the first post. Is there anything that is missing for highly recommended? I'm getting ready to start as soon as the parts arrive (Thanks Kurt!!). I will try to document as best I can with picts.

A bottle jack or floor jack
Breaker Bar
A 3/8" socket wrench with adaptors for larger socket sizes
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 13/16", and 2 1/8" sockets
10mm and 12mm wrenches
3lb hammer (mandatory in my book)
A Brass drift
Snap ring pliers
Inner axle seal puller
Inner axle seal drift
Gloves
Oil drain pan
rubber mallet
hub socket
fish scale
good torque wrench
bench vise
bearing / tie-rod end puller
big flat-head screwdriver or chisel
gloxes (latex, mechanics, etc)
toilet paper

 

[cruiser guy]

You'll need a bolt to pull the stub axle out enough to reinstall the snap ring. Not sure of size or thread count (I just grab the right one from my bucket of metric bolts).

Some of the tools listed can be substituted with much cheaper tools you likely already have on hand (eg. large screw driver to pop out seals).