My virgin birfield repacking/knuckle fixing odyssey
- Thread starter ChuckB
- Start date
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
There should be a gasket in place, but it is very common too see them glued together with excessive amounts of silicone or form-a-gasket type sealants. Plenty of liberal "blows" to the base of the spindle should eventually free it.
Does your birf move "freely" within the spindle? Can you spin it? I've never seen it happen but in a rare circumstance I suppose the inner spindle bushing could seize to the birf itself... however, even in that case you would be able to free the spindle from the knuckle itself.
As for your knuckle questions the other day. You can remove or install studs into the knuckle using the "double-nut" method. Screw one nut 1/2 way down the stud, and then "jam" another nut agains that one, tightening the two together. Now, spin the inner nut OUT to remove a stud, or use the upper nut to install a stud. As a good measure I would pull all your studs (if they feel at all loose) and re-install them into a clean knuckle thread using a bit of thread locker.
Does your birf move "freely" within the spindle? Can you spin it? I've never seen it happen but in a rare circumstance I suppose the inner spindle bushing could seize to the birf itself... however, even in that case you would be able to free the spindle from the knuckle itself.
As for your knuckle questions the other day. You can remove or install studs into the knuckle using the "double-nut" method. Screw one nut 1/2 way down the stud, and then "jam" another nut agains that one, tightening the two together. Now, spin the inner nut OUT to remove a stud, or use the upper nut to install a stud. As a good measure I would pull all your studs (if they feel at all loose) and re-install them into a clean knuckle thread using a bit of thread locker.
ChuckB
Expedition Leader
Thanks for all the help guys. I reached a stopping point for the day. Have a dinner engagement tonight...
I'll let the picts tell most of the story.
Kurt,
I'll will definitely try the double nut method. It's kinda scary but two of the studs on the original knuckle actually came out very easily. So, I will definitely use locktite to put them back on.
I'll let the picts tell most of the story.
Kurt,
I'll will definitely try the double nut method. It's kinda scary but two of the studs on the original knuckle actually came out very easily. So, I will definitely use locktite to put them back on.
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
Well done!
dieselcruiserhead
16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
That is awesome! I hate to put it in these terms but I almost feel like it is like loosing your virginity
ChuckB
Expedition Leader
Thank Kurt.
Andre, I was kinda of thinking about it that way too!!
Now, hopefully I can get it all back together...
Should I be concerned that there didn't appear to be two types of grease on the birfield and wheel bearings?? It all looked to be the same even on the bearings?
Andre, I was kinda of thinking about it that way too!!
Now, hopefully I can get it all back together...
Should I be concerned that there didn't appear to be two types of grease on the birfield and wheel bearings?? It all looked to be the same even on the bearings?
dieselcruiserhead
16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
Grease has always been grease as far as I am concerned, I just use "disk brake" grease that is slightly more expensive and does a better job with heat. Technique for getting it into the birfield is to remove the birf shaft (slide axle into a long pipe and bang down till it pops out, or some other similar mechanism). I then put a deep socket on a long extension, with the socket backwards, then use it to jam new grease into the birf so it is literally oozing past the balls and the birf is completely packed with grease.
You also want to replace the grease in the wheel bearings too. Techique, with your gloves, is get a good maybe 1/2 golf ball goop in your hands with rubber gloves on of course, then you sort of cup the sides of the bearing over the grease so you literally completely jam pack the bearing, same thing, so old grease is oozing out. This is also a great way to remove the old worn nasty grease... To get to the inside wheel bearing, I use a pry bar and literally pop out the old seal then remove the inner bearing. The rebuild kit should include a new inner hub seal (the hub is technially the big part that the disk brake is attached to, that holds the bearings and spins), pack that one, and lightly tap the new seal back in.
Hope it helps!
You also want to replace the grease in the wheel bearings too. Techique, with your gloves, is get a good maybe 1/2 golf ball goop in your hands with rubber gloves on of course, then you sort of cup the sides of the bearing over the grease so you literally completely jam pack the bearing, same thing, so old grease is oozing out. This is also a great way to remove the old worn nasty grease... To get to the inside wheel bearing, I use a pry bar and literally pop out the old seal then remove the inner bearing. The rebuild kit should include a new inner hub seal (the hub is technially the big part that the disk brake is attached to, that holds the bearings and spins), pack that one, and lightly tap the new seal back in.
Hope it helps!
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
I personally use a much different approach then Andre. All greases are NOT equal IMO. You can read thesis's of each on IH8MUD, I too have written a ton of "grease talk" over there too but I'll sum up my personal preferences here:
For Disk Brake Wheel Bearings: Well, use a hi-temp disk brake wheel bearing grease. Not too specific on brand, but something designed to hold up at the extreme temperature swings of a disk brake setup.
For the birfs: A good moly-blend grease. The moly properties help with the metal to metal wear experienced in a birf. Again, not too specific on brand, just a quality grease. Regular greases will lead to increased wear overtime. Some prefer to use Amsoil/Lucas synthetic greases in the birf, Bobby from Longfield recommended these to me the last go around as his birfs are shipped packed with the "tacky" red Lucas IIRC (might have been Amsoil).
For Disk Brake Wheel Bearings: Well, use a hi-temp disk brake wheel bearing grease. Not too specific on brand, but something designed to hold up at the extreme temperature swings of a disk brake setup.
For the birfs: A good moly-blend grease. The moly properties help with the metal to metal wear experienced in a birf. Again, not too specific on brand, just a quality grease. Regular greases will lead to increased wear overtime. Some prefer to use Amsoil/Lucas synthetic greases in the birf, Bobby from Longfield recommended these to me the last go around as his birfs are shipped packed with the "tacky" red Lucas IIRC (might have been Amsoil).
ChuckB
Expedition Leader
Guys, thanks for the info as always. I ended up using both types of grease because I already had both of them on hand.
I have it pretty much back together now. Sorry no picts, I was working alone today... I just need to get the snap ring back on. I can't even really see the groove right now in the end of the axle. Does anybody now offhand what size bolt that is that you can screw into the end of the axle to get it to come out a little? I'm probably going to have to buy one tomorrow as I don't think that I have any laying around the house that will fit. TIA.
Chuck
I have it pretty much back together now. Sorry no picts, I was working alone today... I just need to get the snap ring back on. I can't even really see the groove right now in the end of the axle. Does anybody now offhand what size bolt that is that you can screw into the end of the axle to get it to come out a little? I'm probably going to have to buy one tomorrow as I don't think that I have any laying around the house that will fit. TIA.
Chuck
dieselcruiserhead
16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
Great Chuck congrats!