Need advice, E-locker conversion into 85'

Erick Lihme

Observer
How difficult is it to convert the 85' axle housing to accept an E-locker. I've seen write ups, looking for practical experience. It's a reasonable deal, $1,000 for the locker with wiring and switch, plus he'll throw in a 4.56 diff. The locker has 4.10's, and I could stay with 4.10's in the front.
 
$1,000 for the locker? I think you can buy a new one for around that, maybe even $800.

You can get everything you need for the wiring for under $100 if you look. I have sold a few wiring setups for around $50 if I remember correctly.

I haven't personally done the conversion, but from what I have read, it's fairly easy if you know how to weld, drill and tap.
 
I'm only a novice welder, but I have a friend...if it's a matter of cutting a slot and a little grinding, no problem. I'm having a little trouble justifying a locker for my purposes, however, if I were to go for it, the e-locker would be the way to go. However, I've never driven with a locker! At $1,000, sounds like one could pass on it. Throwing a 4.56 diff does sweeten the deal, and I've parts he'll take in trade.

Thanks for the reply
 
Installing Toyota’s Electric Locker into a 1st Generation 4Runner




http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/ <~Clickit!


(from website)

Drilling & taping

This was the most difficult part for me. It took a couple of tries to get it right. I’d definitely recommend a drill press. I didn’t have one at first, so I tried to use a hand-held drill.

My first attempt ended up with studs that were slightly off-center and not quite perpendicular to the gasket ring. If they are even slightly off, the carrier will not fit snugly against the gasket ring. Therefore, you need a way to mark the exact center of the stud holes so you can drill in the proper place.

Here is what worked for me: I installed the carrier assembly and bolted it down using the 8 existingstuds that fit it. I removed the electric actuator assembly to gain some more clearance. If you do this, be careful not to move the actuator arm inside the differential while it is separated from the electric motor.

Next, I found a drill bit that is almost exactly the same diameter as the inner-diameter of the stud holes in the carrier (22/64" I believe). Using this larger bit, I drilled straight down through the stud holes to mark the gasket ring. I drilled down until the larger drill bit had made a crater in the gasket ring so that it would help guide the smaller drill bit I actually used to drill the hole.

Once the center positions of all four of the new stud holes were marked in this fashion, I used the 17/64" drill bit to drill the holes. Don’t do this! There are two problems here. First, I counted on the 4" long stud hole to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the gasket ring, but since the 17/64" is considerably smaller than the stud hole, it ended up drilling at an angle, so the stud was not perpendicular to the gasket ring. Second, the 17/64" drill was large enough to "walk" in the crater I drilled with the larger drill bit and so it still ended up slightly off center. In the end, I had to hog-out the lower part of one of the long stud holes in the carrier to a larger diameter.

To avoid these problems, I suggest that you remove the carrier after marking the center of where the stud needs to go with the large drill bit. Then, use a small drill bit to drill a pilot hole. Use a drill press to do this and make sure that you get it perfectly perpendicular to the gasket ring. Once you get a pilot hole drilled, drill it out to 17/64".

Once you have drilled the new stud holes, use a 8mm x 1.25 and tap some threads in them.

You do not need to do anything to the unused stud holes.

Here are a couple of pictures showing the modifications (click on images to view larger version):


th_housing_mods1.jpg



th_housing_mods2.jpg
 
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shawkins said:
$1,000 for the locker? I think you can buy a new one for around that, maybe even $800.
That does sound pretty high. I want to say there were some deals, like maybe Toyota of Dallas (trdparts4u.com), that had a new stock e-locker third for about $850.
 
Plan 2

Downey has LSD for $500. Then there's the set up for about $200?
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/ChassisComponents/Lockers.html

I have a nice set of 4.30's to replace the worn 4.10's. Most folks wouldn't use 4.30's, however I like stock sized tires and would only use the tall tires for special trips. 4.56's would rev the motor to 3,445 at 75mph with stock tires, too high for me.

Perhaps I could use the LSD with 4.30's in the front? I'm concerned that LSD in the rear in the snow could cause one to loose the rear in turns at highway speeds. Is this correct? Pro/Cons?

TIA
 
If it were my rig, i would look for the whole kit and kaboodle to bolt in!

You can find complete drum to drum rear ends with the elocker for under $750and it would be from a new truck, so you get all newer seals, and bearings and such!

Just another option!

FYI: I just did a quick search on www.car-part.com and found a TON of them complete for under $800!
 
Good idea!

Track width however might be 1" or so wider, but would the drum brakes also be a tad bigger and better? There's shipping to consider as well. I'm in the booneys!

I do have new bearings and seals in the rear already.

Plan 3

For a little more, say $300 bucks, $500 +$500+ $300 (set up), if the LSD would be safe in the rear in the snow, LSD could be in both the front and rear?

Thanks for the help.
 
Erick Lihme said:
Good idea!

Track width however might be 1" or so wider,

Who cares? If anything, thats better!

Erick Lihme said:
but would the drum brakes also be a tad bigger and better?

Yes, and newer!

Erick Lihme said:
There's shipping to consider as well. I'm in the booneys!

I bet if wouldnt be more then $150 or so! $650 for the axle $150 for shipping, bamn, you are good to go!
 
go to car-part.com and search for a TDR tacoma '96 through '05 I believe and select diff lock 4.10 model. I paid $275 for mine. I did it twice now, really not that hard. It does help to have a welder to add a little puddle where you drill but not necessary. There is a spot where it will put the hole very close to a lip without the welder, but that is OK.. I bought a 8" long 1/4" drill bit for the holes it needed, this helped a lot. I also put rags and towels inside the housing to collect grinding dust...
 
The TRD limited slip is also another option, which I've seen as cheap as $200. For the front I personally would go open or selectable (Air Locker or e-locker). Limited slip in the front would be an option, but I would quickly run from an auto locker in the front. Also keep in mind that to run a limited slip in front, it's mandatory to run manual hubs (i.e., no ADD).

In the back a limited slip would be better than an auto locker in the snow. I've never driven a limited slip truck in those conditions, but an auto locker truck was a real chore. I went with an Air Locker just for the reason that I drive my truck on pavement a lot in the winter.
 
DaveInDenver said:
The TRD limited slip is also another option, which I've seen as cheap as $200. For the front I personally would go open or selectable (Air Locker or e-locker). Limited slip in the front would be an option, but I would quickly run from an auto locker in the front. Also keep in mind that to run a limited slip in front, it's mandatory to run manual hubs (i.e., no ADD).

Limited slip means that the gears need to be reset and such doesnt it? That will add big costs?

Dont know if the rear end ever came with one with LSD, but if it did and its already in there, that would be a good option too!
 
go to car-part.com and search for a TDR tacoma '96 through '05 I believe and select diff lock 4.10 model. I paid $275 for mine.

If I can get one for $275, that'd be steal, and subcomming the temptation to both wouldn't painful either! I've got a spare front axle I could screw up without pain, got's to rebuid the front anyway and will do it when intalling the OEM springs when tearing into all this fall. Can do it will both axles off. I can rationalize the excess this way :chowtime: Front and rear would make this thing a snow buster for sure.

Tx,
 
Also keep in mind that to run a limited slip in front, it's mandatory to run manual hubs

Mine are manual hubs. Carpart.com might have these as well or instead? This would be the easiest, no wiring either.
 

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