Need Fiberglass Foam Core Panel Recommendation

rruff

Explorer
The glue is basically holding onto the edge of the foam and the edge of those thin sheets. But they've been building them like that for awhile, so if they tended to fall apart I think we'd know about it.
 

The Artisan

Adventurer
The glue is basically holding onto the edge of the foam and the edge of those thin sheets. But they've been building them like that for awhile, so if they tended to fall apart I think we'd know about it.
How long have they been used in offroad conditions?
Kevin
 

ScottReb

Adventurer
They have been around for 20 years and are one of the largest if not the largest supplier of panels. Im guessing there have been more than a few boxes used off road. They are very helpful and will answer questions via email or by phone.
 

Lwing

Member
Bapple, have been researching my build online and have found two of your threads, A scary gamble but alibaba seems to have some manufacturers, I'm interested in a cabover she'll also, the search continues,
 

Alloy

Well-known member
A search for "foam core sandwich panel" or "freezer panels" may provide better results.

There are a few companies around that sell used freezer panels.
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
I built our truck 14 years ago using FRP sandwich panel on a light weight steel frame.
In hindsight, most of the steel was not required.
I used 2 different panels, a honeycomb core and a closed cell polyurethane foam core. The honeycomb was a mistake. Its insulation properties are very poor and urethane is almost twice as good as polystyrene of the same thickness.
The best panel came from this manufacturer in Queensland Australia. There is a bit of info on their web site. http://vanglass.homestead.com/index.html
The build strength that can be achieved with this material (all glued together with Sikaflex 252 and 11FC) is astounding. In 14 years of serious bush we have NEVER had a failure of a glue joint.
There is also a bit of info in the link in the sig line below. 14 years and counting.

I had a friend build this camper on a Defender (yes, it is a Defender under the skin) about 10years ago.. He made his own sandwich panel (FRP/urethane) by vacuum bagging it on his shed floor. There is NO steel in this build.
10-01-30 GM 002E.jpg
Light weight, exceptional strength, excellent thermal insulation, good looks.
Cheers,
Peter
 

J!m

Active member
I know little about this, but have some ideas to throw out there.

For a foam core with fiberglass facing, why not use fiberglass structural members? Angle “iron” in various size and thickness is easy to get from McMaster-Carr. I used it recently to build acid tank supports. It can be cut and drilled and with it in and outside the corners, would support thousands of pounds. You could through bolt it as well as glassing it in.

We all know cheap white fiberglass cloth. Well, for many years now carbon fiber cloth has been available for not much more. Lay that up onto the pre-glued corners with West Ststem and it’ll hold just fine.

Inside, the smaller angle can be “glued n screwed” to the walls for counter, cabinet and other supports. Lighter and stronger than fir.

Just thinking out loud but maybe something clicks.
 

rruff

Explorer
...urethane is almost twice as good as polystyrene of the same thickness.

At higher temperatures it's a little better, maybe up to R7 vs R5 on a hot day. At low temperatures XPS is actually higher R value than urethane. http://www.uscooler.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/uscooler_insulation.pdf

That Defender is a nice looking rig! I agree that steel framing is a waste.

For a foam core with fiberglass facing, why not use fiberglass structural members? Angle “iron” in various size and thickness is easy to get from McMaster-Carr.

Link?
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
For a foam core with fiberglass facing, why not use fiberglass structural members? Angle “iron” in various size and thickness is easy to get from McMaster-Carr. I used it recently to build acid tank supports. It can be cut and drilled and with it in and outside the corners, would support thousands of pounds. You could through bolt it as well as glassing it in.
Absolutely. But they are only needed to seal the corners.
In fact it also solves the problem of differential expansion. I used aluminium angle to join corners (with Sikaflex) and glue joints had to be up to 3.5mm thick to allow for the different rates of expansion and avoid tearing the glue at extreme temperatures. If FRP angles are used, glue joints can be much thinner.
Mechanical fixings of any kind are absolutely NOT required. In fact they cause more problems due to localised stresses.

With the Defender body, the corners were blended and laid up by hand as a foam core sandwich. Many hours to get a stunning result.

By the way, both this vehicle and mine used sandwich panel for all the internal structures as well as the outside skin, so it in effect becomes a monocoque construction body of enormous strength.
06 Seats & tableE.jpg
07 KitchenE.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
About 10 years ago, in response to questions from a friend, I put together a Powerpoint to answer some sandwich panel construction methods that I used, but this site won't let me attach it :(
It includes making doors which was something that I did not want to do at all. Clearly not the only way, but the way I used.
I guess I could post the dozen pics involved if anyone wants to see them.
Cheers,
Peter OKA196 motorhome
 

Nations1

New member
About 10 years ago, in response to questions from a friend, I put together a Powerpoint to answer some sandwich panel construction methods that I used, but this site won't let me attach it :(
It includes making doors which was something that I did not want to do at all. Clearly not the only way, but the way I used.
I guess I could post the dozen pics involved if anyone wants to see them.
Cheers,
Peter OKA196 motorhome

What it be possible for you to email this to me?

If so I will send you my email in a private message

Much thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
Sure.
Bear in mind that it is nearly 10 years old and I have learned a few things since and materials have changed for the better too, but it may prompt some thoughts.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

rruff

Explorer
Absolutely. But they are only needed to seal the corners.

Angles glued to edges/corners is the common joining and reinforcing method, but if you look at the Styromax videos linked earlier, they don't even do that. They just glue the edges... :unsure:

Was the Defender camper all hand layup or just the edges?
 

Alloy

Well-known member
At higher temperatures it's a little better, maybe up to R7 vs R5 on a hot day. At low temperatures XPS is actually higher R value than urethane. http://www.uscooler.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/uscooler_insulation.pdf

That Defender is a nice looking rig! I agree that steel framing is a waste.

Polyisocyanurate board like Urethane looses R value as temps cool.

Another thing is water absorption. I've seen allot of water logged urethane. Seen some water logged EPS (expanded polystyrene) but I've never seen waterlogged XPS (extruded polystyrene).

To laminate XPS it need to be glued to a fibre-glass-reinforced composite or aluminum panel.

Some kind of metal or plastic backing inside the walls is beneficial to attach items inside/outside.
 

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