Need help in diagnosing codes PO307, PO130, P1562 & PO300

[rismail01]

I have search this forum but was unable to find the information that closely pertain to my current D2 problem. Please share any feedbacks and thoughts on the following issue/s. Thanks in advance.

So i have been trying to be productive and attempting to fix my wife's 2001 D2 since her last episode when the truck overheated and went into limp mode on the same day. We actually had it towed to our driveway and that was 2 weeks ago. Here is the summary of my project.

2001 D2 with 124K we're the 2nd owner, truck was dealer serviced from new by previous owner based on the sales receipts kept. Head gasket & ABS modulator replaced at 71K. Bought at 105K a year ago and so far replaced the front DS and kept up with the PM

Parts replaced:

- Battery (warranty)

- alternator (reman) due to the voltage reading shown 11-12V while engine running MIL P1562

- idler pulleys (70MM & 80MM) when I noticed that the bearings started to go bad

- tensioner pulley (replaced with metal type) also noticed the bearings on the plastic pulley were bad

- drive belt since I found several cranks on the belt that were straight from end to end

- spark plugs due to SES came on and MIL code PO307 showed misfire from bank 7

- ignition wires replaced after the plugs since MIL PO307 came back

- upper inlet manifold gasket PM recommended

- O2 sensor (PS pre CAT)replaced due to code PO130

- top off coolant (50/50)still topping off once the engine cooled off & "gurgling" sound still present



I noticed the followings while working on the project:

- oil in the IACV hoses by the throttle body

- varnish color buildups inside the last 4 ports on the upper manifold; bank 4,8,5 and 7

- HT wire #7 seemed not long enough to connect to the plug and excessive carbon buildup with plug #7

- coolant by the valley gasket in the rear but not sure if this was from the spill earlier while disconnecting the coolant hoses by the throttle body



Test drive

On SUN drove up to 45 mph w/o SES coming on & topped off coolant



On MON noticed coolant low so topped off and drove up to 30 mph with SES came on and each time the engine "stutter" briefly

MIL codes PO307, PO130 and PO300 were all present! WTFudge!


Ray











































'

 

[rijosho]

Are your three Amigos on?

Get over to landroversonly

http://www.landroversonly.com/forum...es-p1319-p0304-p0306-p1303-p0307-p1590-56572/

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f40/2003-dii-problem-codes-p0130-p0307-p1590-31720/

http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/obd2-codes-lots-them-48267/page3/

 

[rismail01]

They did when the truck went into limp mode but went away after the battery and alternator replaced

I will check these links - thanks

 

[tatuedrednek]

Your 300 and 307 codes are due to the engine miss firing. 300 says a miss fire was detected and 307 indicates it is on cyl#7 I'd start with a good tune up. Spark plugs, and wires.

 

[Daryl]

You have seemingly two separate problems.

For P0307 and P0300 I would consider cleaning and gapping (or replacing) the plug in cylinder 7 and fitting a proper plug wire first. But if one is cruddy, the rest probably are as well. It wouldn't hurt to replace all the plugs and wires. If you haven't done this before, be warned that you either need to have very small hands or remove the intake plenum to access the coils (so be sure to order a plenum gasket).

P0130 is the upstream left side O2 sensor, on the same bank as your misfire. It's entirely possible that your misfire is fouling it. It may or may not straighten itself out at some point after you remedy the poor running condition. Chances are low, as the fault will keep the truck in open loop, so it will continue to run rich even if it is firing properly. Possibly a good run on the highway could help. Otherwise you will probably need to change the O2 sensor. If possible, I would look at some live data or better yet get a scope on it to verify how it is acting. If it's not possible for you to diagnose that way, O2s are at least not terribly expensive.

P1562 is why you were in limp. It should clear itself if your voltage is adequate. I see you have changed the alternator, but have you actually tested the voltage at the battery both off and after the truck is running? Failing alternators very often go unnoticed for long enough to damage a battery. Any decent parts store should have a proper carbon pile load tester and will test your battery for free (in the hopes of selling you a new one). If your running voltage is low as well as your standing voltage (truck off) I would suspect the battery before assuming a faulty replacement alternator. You may need to clear the DTCs to get it out of limp. I've had some situations where that was not necessary, and some where it was.

 

[rismail01]

I did go ahead and replaced the plugs with DENSO part # PK16PR double platinum and the wires with OEM Eurospares part HLS103G. The O2 was replaced with NTK part 25623. I wonder if I should have gone with the STI wires instead. Could these plugs be not suitable for the D2. When I did the tune up on my 2000 D2, I used Champion plugs and STI wires.

 

[Daryl]

I did go ahead and replaced the plugs with DENSO part # PK16PR double platinum and the wires with OEM Eurospares part HLS103G. The O2 was replaced with NTK part 25623. I wonder if I should have gone with the STI wires instead. Could these plugs be not suitable for the D2. When I did the tune up on my 2000 D2, I used Champion plugs and STI wires.

I don't know those plugs specifically, but I typically go with regular old copper plugs in Rover V8s. They seem to like them just fine, and they are both cheap and easy enough to change so I'm not concerned about the shorter service interval compared to platinum or multi conductor plugs.

If you are still having a misfire on #7 with the new plugs (and not other cylinders) I would suggest that the next logical step would be the coil. They are a bit pricy, so a reasonable test would be to swap them (both are the same if I recall.....I'm not in the garage to grab a spare and double check this for you) and see if the misfire follows the coil. If it does not, it's compression and leak down test time to verify the health of the rings and valves in that cylinder.

 

[Hugh166]

I second swapping the coil, if the misfire is still on cylinder 7 then you have an issue internally. If the misfire moves to the corresponding new cylinder then you know you need a coil. They are pricey but I would recommend changing both if that is the case so you don't have to go back in again in a few months. If you are losing coolant as well then you might have a head gasket that is bad and allowing coolant into the cylinder.

 

[Daryl]

I just got back to the garage and double checked. Yes, the coils are the same, you just flip them 180 degrees.

 

[rismail01]

Okay thanks guys - I will check the coil packs next

 

[jsolorza]

A word of advice, do not replace anything before you do a combustion leak test. You can rent one at autozone, Im a automotive technician and from the symptoms you described it sounds like you warped your cylinder heads.

 

[Daryl]

A word of advice, do not replace anything before you do a combustion leak test. You can rent one at autozone, Im a automotive technician and from the symptoms you described it sounds like you warped your cylinder heads.

Re-reading his original message, he is experiencing loss of coolant, so this is certainly a possibility. With as often as Rover V8s need head gaskets combined with how problematic the coils are it could very well be both. In fact, it was both on the last D2 I worked on.

 

[rismail01]

Daryl,

Okay here's the latest updates on bank #7 misfiring;
the wire was too short and not solid contact to the plug - fix with stock wire and stock champion plug
Engine is running on all 8 cyl and no more MIL codes PO307, PO300 or PO130.

Now regarding the overheating issue
a) Still hears the infamous gurgling noise in the heating system even after numerous attempts to burp
b) Still loosing coolant and engine temp hovers at 204 F but climbs to 212/214F quickly when idling too long
c) No visible trace of coolant lost through water pump, throttle body gasket, hoses and no white smoke coming out the exhaust
d) Haven't done the pressure test on the expansion tank but it appears that the pressure build up after a drive is "high"
e) Hoping to do a block test soon but could the rough idle and overheating issues all pointing to blown head gasket??

 

[Daryl]

e) Hoping to do a block test soon but could the rough idle and overheating issues all pointing to blown head gasket??

THey certainly could. They could just as easily point to a blown valley pan (lower intake manifold) gasket. But that's if you are taking the two symptoms as being related, which may or may not be the case.

One quite easy way to check for a blown head gasket that is pressurizing the cooling system would be with a coolant exhaust gas tester. You can typically loan them from parts stores and just need to pay for chemicals. This will tell you if you are getting combustion gases in your coolant. If it's a bad valley pan gasket, it's still going to fail the pressure test but won't show signs of combustion gases in the coolant.

Not that it really matters....I wouldn't suggest getting as far down as the valley pan to replace it and not keep on going to go your head gaskets based on what we all know about these motors.

I think the cooling system pressure test is going to be the important one. But 212/214 at idle isn't TERRIBLY bad. I would make sure your auxiliary electric fan is switching on (I believe it does so at about 208) and ensure your viscous fan clutch is working properly. That on its own could explain the idle temps and any low speed overheating. The gurgling in the coolant is definitely an issue, but I have run into some trucks that really, really don't want to bleed. I've used vacuum bleeders to get them to behave properly.

Oh....and make sure the auxiliary electric fan is blowing towards the motor. I had one come to me that was overheating at low speeds/idle and it turned out that someone hacked up the wiring to the fan and reversed the polarity.

 

[rismail01]

Thanks Daryl for really some solid advise - I'm hoping to stop by the local auto store tonight and see if they have the tester to loan out.

Cheers!