BlackdogGS
Observer
I just installed my batteries. They are brand new and my trailer monitor tells me there at 75% charged. What’s the best way to charge them, shore power or battery charger? Thanks
New camping trailer. Battery/generator questions
- Thread starter BlackdogGS
- Start date
BlackdogGS
Observer
BlackdogGS
Observer
I disconnected the batteries and I’m charging them one at a time with a 10 amp battery charger. I’m using the type of charger that sites on the work bench. I have no idea what kind of build in charger I have.
Well, you need to know.
Also wrt the chargers and battery monitor, what specific models?
Have you got a DMM and an ammeter? Hydrometer?
With a FLA bank over 200A, you should have a decent 30+A charger in order to get to 100% Full in 5-7 hours.
With one at only 10A, leave at least overnight.
Also wrt the chargers and battery monitor, what specific models?
Have you got a DMM and an ammeter? Hydrometer?
With a FLA bank over 200A, you should have a decent 30+A charger in order to get to 100% Full in 5-7 hours.
With one at only 10A, leave at least overnight.
BlackdogGS
Observer
Thanks. Yes, I’ll look for the specs on the charger and monitor.
When charging on a trip do you leave them hooked up and charge with a 12 volt charger or disconnect and charge with a 6 volt charger?
Good thread with technical details here.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/6vdc-trojan-t105-225ah-equalization-201841.html
I think yours are Deka?
Bit different charge specs from Trojan, but 99% will apply the same.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/6vdc-trojan-t105-225ah-equalization-201841.html
I think yours are Deka?
Bit different charge specs from Trojan, but 99% will apply the same.
BlackdogGS
Observer
Thanks for sticking with me on this.
My inverter is 55 amps (foat, absorption, bulk), and my monitor looks like this:
My batteries were at 6.2 before charge but my monitor said only 75% charged. After charging for 10 hours at 10 amps I was at 7.16 (I know it will drop some).
I would like a more accurate monitor for the batteries, something easy to install. Suggestions? I’m thinking my inverted will be fine for my charging needs.
Also I have a battery cut-off switch on order.
My inverter is 55 amps (foat, absorption, bulk), and my monitor looks like this:
My batteries were at 6.2 before charge but my monitor said only 75% charged. After charging for 10 hours at 10 amps I was at 7.16 (I know it will drop some).
I would like a more accurate monitor for the batteries, something easy to install. Suggestions? I’m thinking my inverted will be fine for my charging needs.
Also I have a battery cut-off switch on order.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Victrons BMV series of battery monitors are good. Several different option available.
https://amzn.to/2E0cx2W
They are not difficult to install. The most difficult part is that you need to install the shunt on the negative feed to your bank. After that you just enter your battery size and a few other details. This type of monitor tracks amp-hours in and out of the battery, thus providing a fairly accurate SOC in %.
It depends on what brand and type of battery you have, but generally a flooded battery should see 14.6V (7.3v per 6V) during absorb. You want this voltage to be held until the charging amps drops under 1% of battery capacity. So 1A per 100AH of capacity. This can take 3-5 hours once the absorb voltage has been reached.
https://amzn.to/2E0cx2W
They are not difficult to install. The most difficult part is that you need to install the shunt on the negative feed to your bank. After that you just enter your battery size and a few other details. This type of monitor tracks amp-hours in and out of the battery, thus providing a fairly accurate SOC in %.
It depends on what brand and type of battery you have, but generally a flooded battery should see 14.6V (7.3v per 6V) during absorb. You want this voltage to be held until the charging amps drops under 1% of battery capacity. So 1A per 100AH of capacity. This can take 3-5 hours once the absorb voltage has been reached.
Yes those blinky lights are crude AF.
For SoC nothing is more accurate today than Merlin SmartGauge, supported in the NA market by Balmar.
Also by far the easiest to install configure and use, part of why so accurate. Only works with lead banks.
Out of the plethora of AH counting BMs, needed for LFP, my choice would be Victron 712-BMV.
Many owners install both, but if that seems nuts to you, a decent AH counter - not full BM quality - can be had from well under $100.
CMS / Maine Sail uses a Xantrex LinkPRO.
Read these three articles at his site
https://www.google.com/search?q=site:marinehowto.com+battery+monitor
And PS, inverters don't charge, they produce mains-style AC from your DC sources and battery bank.
For SoC nothing is more accurate today than Merlin SmartGauge, supported in the NA market by Balmar.
Also by far the easiest to install configure and use, part of why so accurate. Only works with lead banks.
Out of the plethora of AH counting BMs, needed for LFP, my choice would be Victron 712-BMV.
Many owners install both, but if that seems nuts to you, a decent AH counter - not full BM quality - can be had from well under $100.
CMS / Maine Sail uses a Xantrex LinkPRO.
Read these three articles at his site
https://www.google.com/search?q=site:marinehowto.com+battery+monitor
And PS, inverters don't charge, they produce mains-style AC from your DC sources and battery bank.
BlackdogGS
Observer
Thanks! I thought the inverter charged also. I heard others say that plugging in to shore power will charge the batteries. Should I carry a stand-alone battery charger with me also? We plan on being remote 75% of the time. As far as the monitor should I go with the Victron 712 or 700?
luthj
Engineer In Residence
The 712 has built-in bluetooth. So you can monitor using the victron phone app. You can also link it to one of their solar charger controllers if that matters.
If you have a inverter/charger, then you likely don't need a portable unit, with two caveats.
1. If charging from a generator, make sure it can supply the ~800w peak that charger will need.
2. Not all chargers are equal, I suggest you post up your chargers specs, model etc. That way we can tell you if its actually worth anything, or if it just an anchor.
If you have a inverter/charger, then you likely don't need a portable unit, with two caveats.
1. If charging from a generator, make sure it can supply the ~800w peak that charger will need.
2. Not all chargers are equal, I suggest you post up your chargers specs, model etc. That way we can tell you if its actually worth anything, or if it just an anchor.
inverter produces mains from DC
charger the reverse
Just as there are combined aircon/heating units, "combi" style inverter/chargers do exist, but they are distinct functions.
I prefer separates, unless PowerAssist required.
You really need to figure out exactly what you have - links, at least model#s - before much advice can be given.
charger the reverse
Just as there are combined aircon/heating units, "combi" style inverter/chargers do exist, but they are distinct functions.
I prefer separates, unless PowerAssist required.
You really need to figure out exactly what you have - links, at least model#s - before much advice can be given.
BlackdogGS
Observer
It looks like my inverter charged also. https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8955-55-amp/
This is the charger I’m using.
This is the charger I’m using.
BlackdogGS
Observer
I must have an inverter, when I'm plugged into shore power I have 12 volt lights, etc. I guess I'll have to look harder.