New Expedition Camper Build (CRT14)

[ahb1989]

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[M35A2]

I am loving the design and the quality of your work.

I have a few questions and comments.

- I imagine that some customers will want built rigs and others, perhaps, a shell. Would it be possible to bolt on the suspension and to provide provision (extra mounting holes) so that the user could fine-tune the axle position to suit their needs (on a shell build)? (Note: looking at the trailer from the side, the axle location is not as severely back as I mistakenly thought based on the three-quarter view photos I saw previously.)

- I like the rear receiver.

- I like the 200 watts of solar panels.

- Is a parking brake feasible?

- Could the open ends of the frame crossmembers on the side be set up with 1" or 2" receivers? Could be handy for a variety of uses.

- I wonder about a tall, narrow tire with less inertia. 10.5 inches seems too wide, and the tread too aggressive for a non-powered axle.

- The frame of the box looks beyond bulletproof. The tongue appears weak, as if it would deflect vertically. I might be mistaken, especially since I am not aware of the materials used, but that's how it appears. Would it be feasible to add vertical triangular reinforcements (from just behind the hitch to maybe a foot above the floor on the front of the box)?

- I still picture this puppy with Harley bobtail fenders and taillights.

 

[ahb1989]

I am loving the design and the quality of your work.

I have a few questions and comments.

- I imagine that some customers will want built rigs and others, perhaps, a shell. Would it be possible to bolt on the suspension and to provide provision (extra mounting holes) so that the user could fine-tune the axle position to suit their needs (on a shell build)? (Note: looking at the trailer from the side, the axle location is not as severely back as I mistakenly thought based on the three-quarter view photos I saw previously.)

- I like the rear receiver.

- I like the 200 watts of solar panels.

- Is a parking brake feasible?

- Could the open ends of the frame crossmembers on the side be set up with 1" or 2" receivers? Could be handy for a variety of uses.

- I wonder about a tall, narrow tire with less inertia. 10.5 inches seems too wide, and the tread too aggressive for a non-powered axle.

- The frame of the box looks beyond bulletproof. The tongue appears weak, as if it would deflect vertically. I might be mistaken, especially since I am not aware of the materials used, but that's how it appears. Would it be feasible to add vertical triangular reinforcements (from just behind the hitch to maybe a foot above the floor on the front of the box)?

- I still picture this puppy with Harley bobtail fenders and taillights.

You beat me to it! I have inserts that are designed to slide in the open ports, indeed that's why they were left open. One for spare fuel, a extra table. One side will use one for a ladder attachment point. I was hesitant about using a 2" receiver slot as I wouldn't be able to control what people would use (I kept picturing two trailer balls installed with my camper pulling two side by side trailers behind it on some lonely desert)

The suspension is actually designed to be bolted or welded. I chose to do both for liability reasons. In a "kit" form it would be left unattached so that a diy could "adjust" as needed. The manufacture's minimum recommendation is three bolts per side.

I am working on a custom trailing arm suspension for a radical RTT carrying trailer that could one day be available for this model as well.


I felt that the rear receiver was needed due to the small overall size, it makes a great mount for a hitch hauler.

I'm hoping that the 200 watts of solar will be enough coupled with the storage capacity I have room for. This is definitely not my strongest area but from the load calcs I have done it should be fine as long as there isn't more then a few days of overcast weather.

As far as the tires, I'm unsure if they will be too big or not. Decidedly they look good on the trailer, better then the standard trailer tires I mocked it up with one day. I've always been a function over form but appearances matter for some. Ideally I would match whatever the tow vehicle uses ( unless it's a huge tire or too expensive).

I could most definitely do a parking brake, although they are a little more expensive. I am considering building a module that could temporarily engage the electric brakes from the tongue so it could be moved by hand or for other unforseen circumstances, but it could not be used permanently (at all). I have had times where I have had to "dump" a loaded trailer and not having had to block the tires would have been great ( repositioning TV for tight areas etc.)


I'm thinking with the materials used for main hitch runner defection won't be a problem. It isn't very long but if it does during the final testing it can be addressed several ways. One of them would be a structural tongue box that would accomplish the strengthening just like you proposed.

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna have to do some Photoshop for the Harley fenders . I like the idea but wonder if the loss of a potential table top would be worth it.

 

[M35A2]

You beat me to it! I have inserts that are designed to slide in the open ports, indeed that's why they were left open. One for spare fuel, a extra table. One side will use one for a ladder attachment point. I was hesitant about using a 2" receiver slot as I wouldn't be able to control what people would use (I kept picturing two trailer balls installed with my camper pulling two side by side trailers behind it on some lonely desert)

The suspension is actually designed to be bolted or welded. I chose to do both for liability reasons. In a "kit" form it would be left unattached so that a diy could "adjust" as needed. The manufacture's minimum recommendation is three bolts per side.

I am working on a custom trailing arm suspension for a radical RTT carrying trailer that could one day be available for this model as well.


I felt that the rear receiver was needed due to the small overall size, it makes a great mount for a hitch hauler.

I'm hoping that the 200 watts of solar will be enough coupled with the storage capacity I have room for. This is definitely not my strongest area but from the load calcs I have done it should be fine as long as there isn't more then a few days of overcast weather.

As far as the tires, I'm unsure if they will be too big or not. Decidedly they look good on the trailer, better then the standard trailer tires I mocked it up with one day. I've always been a function over form but appearances matter for some. Ideally I would match whatever the tow vehicle uses ( unless it's a huge tire or too expensive).

I could most definitely do a parking brake, although they are a little more expensive. I am considering building a module that could temporarily engage the electric brakes from the tongue so it could be moved by hand or for other unforseen circumstances, but it could not be used permanently (at all). I have had times where I have had to "dump" a loaded trailer and not having had to block the tires would have been great ( repositioning TV for tight areas etc.)


I'm thinking with the materials used for main hitch runner defection won't be a problem. It isn't very long but if it does during the final testing it can be addressed several ways. One of them would be a structural tongue box that would accomplish the strengthening just like you proposed.

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna have to do some Photoshop for the Harley fenders . I like the idea but wonder if the loss of a potential table top would be worth it.

I understand your dilemma on the side receivers. Would 1" receivers put customers off? But there are so many uses for side-mounted receivers.

On the tires, I wonder if you could run just as tall, but narrower. Too much momentum on those big meats.

200 watts of solar should be enough - what about an option to add more solar panels on the tailgate, so when it is up it catches more rays? Maybe mounted so that it could swing up even with the hatch closed?

I like the idea of the structural tongue box - it's what I was envisioning; just could not explain it clearly. Perhaps this could be an option?

Can the pintle be a true pintle that rotates?

You make a good point about the utility of flat-topped fenders. I hadn't thought of that. But bobtail! (LOL)

Needs provision for killer back-up lights and a rear-facing camera.

I would like to see the angled portion of the tongue extend about a foot further forward. IOW, a 'taller' triangle. I realize you would have to futz with the landing gear to make that happen, but I think it would look better.

Hope I am not overstaying my welcome. It's just that I really like what you are doing and appreciate the opportunity for the open discussion.

 

[ahb1989]

I understand your dilemma on the side receivers. Would 1" receivers put customers off? But there are so many uses for side-mounted receivers.

On the tires, I wonder if you could run just as tall, but narrower. Too much momentum on those big meats.

200 watts of solar should be enough - what about an option to add more solar panels on the tailgate, so when it is up it catches more rays? Maybe mounted so that it could swing up even with the hatch closed?

I like the idea of the structural tongue box - it's what I was envisioning; just could not explain it clearly. Perhaps this could be an option?

Can the pintle be a true pintle that rotates?

You make a good point about the utility of flat-topped fenders. I hadn't thought of that. But bobtail! (LOL)

Needs provision for killer back-up lights and a rear-facing camera.

I would like to see the angled portion of the tongue extend about a foot further forward. IOW, a 'taller' triangle. I realize you would have to futz with the landing gear to make that happen, but I think it would look better.

Hope I am not overstaying my welcome. It's just that I really like what you are doing and appreciate the opportunity for the open discussion.

This is exactly what I want, feel free to comment, rant, or rave. I intend to finish this one, finalize my jigs with all the changes then produce if the need is there. I hope that people will like what I like, but slight changes are available.

I will more then likely camp in this one a few months, romp on it a few thousand miles then sell it a few thousand off as a used demo. It won't match the final product but I think that someone won't mind.

I could easily weld 2 in receiver to the bottom of those if a customer wanted me to, I could even make an "adapter" that could undersling a 2" receiver but mount in my receiver. I literally have a list of "different" things I'm gonna do on the production model.

There is still room on the roof for more solar so a upgrade could be a check the box option, the door is more then strong enough to mount a panel on. I am in the thinking stage of a premade door which would prevent that though so more thought is needed for that.

Now that I think of it the existing hitch could be " sleeved" but one thing to think about is that it is full length from front to back and is 2x2x.250. This is a fairly light weight camper, It should be fine. I may include threaded bosses on the front rails that could accept an optional bolt on structural box. One that concerns me is possible propane leaks, I wouldn't want the tanks inside of the box being heavier than air.

I agree that the front triangle could be a bit longer, the pintle is of course removable as designed....a multi axis hitch could be slid in, I haven't considered a rotating pintle as I assumed most would use the more quiet available hitches.

 

[PCO6]

Nice job all round. I like the one piece tongue to rear receiver tube. You could turn that into a "rotisserie" with a couple of engine stands to speed up the frame welding process.

Looking forward to seeing the fenders go on (have to agree with flat tops for table purposes) and how you finish the interior.

Keep up the good work!

 

[M35A2]

This is exactly what I want, feel free to comment, rant, or rave. I intend to finish this one, finalize my jigs with all the changes then produce if the need is there. I hope that people will like what I like, but slight changes are available.

I will more then likely camp in this one a few months, romp on it a few thousand miles then sell it a few thousand off as a used demo. It won't match the final product but I think that someone won't mind.

I could easily weld 2 in receiver to the bottom of those if a customer wanted me to, I could even make an "adapter" that could undersling a 2" receiver but mount in my receiver. I literally have a list of "different" things I'm gonna do on the production model.

There is still room on the roof for more solar so a upgrade could be a check the box option, the door is more then strong enough to mount a panel on. I am in the thinking stage of a premade door which would prevent that though so more thought is needed for that.

Now that I think of it the existing hitch could be " sleeved" but one thing to think about is that it is full length from front to back and is 2x2x.250. This is a fairly light weight camper, It should be fine. I may include threaded bosses on the front rails that could accept an optional bolt on structural box. One that concerns me is possible propane leaks, I wouldn't want the tanks inside of the box being heavier than air.

I agree that the front triangle could be a bit longer, the pintle is of course removable as designed....a multi axis hitch could be slid in, I haven't considered a rotating pintle as I assumed most would use the more quiet available hitches.

I like the idea of building in attachment points for optional upgrades. A person like me would load the bejeesus out of the a-frame, so I would go for the structural tongue upgrade and would probably mount the axle one set of holes forward (I am already pretty good backing up short tongue/short length trailers).

Getting way ahead here, but some day would you offer a model 12" or 18" longer overall?

 

[ahb1989]

Nice job all round. I like the one piece tongue to rear receiver tube. You could turn that into a "rotisserie" with a couple of engine stands to speed up the frame welding process.

Looking forward to seeing the fenders go on (have to agree with flat tops for table purposes) and how you finish the interior.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks again, I will post up the pictures of the engine stands I used to speed up the frame welding process! I can't believe how much some of us think alike.

I'm hoping that the one piece will help if someone gets stuck and starts pulling their truck out through the trailer. I would hate for the frame to get twisted.

I'm going birch on the inside but more then likely will go with aluminum on the production model. I am really hoping to gain a CNC plasma so that I can cut all the walls with precision and hopefully bring the cost down by cutting labor.

I'm torn on the plywood floor, I like the lateral strength it provides and the themal break but it could very well be wood free without it.

 

[ahb1989]

I like the idea of building in attachment points for optional upgrades. A person like me would load the bejeesus out of the a-frame, so I would go for the structural tongue upgrade and would probably mount the axle one set of holes forward (I am already pretty good backing up short tongue/short length trailers).

Getting way ahead here, but some day would you offer a model 12" or 18" longer overall?

I have built in an extra 12 in with the current jig meaning I could have an approximate 10 foot overall body with no changes, i have it drafter to simply have a longer dovetail. I don't know if I will ever production build a 18 in bigger model. That said I could easily use 12 foot material, and "stick" frame the extra in the rear. I just don't know what I would do with the extra room. Currently a queen sized bed fits with all the necessities including hot water, outside shower, and rear kitchen. It's water tank could I guess be improved but 25 gallons is a comfortable amount for light exploring. Couple with a good ceramic filter for resupply and its formidable. Of course I'm very receptive to general consensus so if that's what it took, I'd change the base model to reflect it instead of it being a custom.

All that said I have a dream of a super extended range off-road trailer. I think tripling the load capacity, 6 in rectangular frame, 5500 to 6500 lb axle and a minimum 100 gallon baffled water tank (200 or more if it was required) I'd want to size it for months of comfortable travel with minimum restock. I'd like to force air heat/ac it with remote mount ducting so that it could provide climate control to a roof top tent, or a cabin of a vehicle for extra capacity. I would like it to provide heat to a shower tent as well. I would probably install rv style tankless water heater vs the 6 gallon one I'm installing in CRT14. I want to install a built in generator with onboard tank. Basically a portable infrastructure trailer. Have it extremely capable, although heavy. Think a roof top tent trailer for your bigger vehicle that could provide infrastructure for your buddies tent as well.

I'm not opposed to smaller style roof top tent style Trailers but I haven't really come across a serious one that's capable of providing for more then one tent or multiple parties.

I ultimately plan on a handful of models but I'm open to customs at first. This build the body is not removable making the frame and wall system a large ladder frame but I have considered making the body removable for a more modular system. Want more carrying capacity upgrade your chassis not your trailer. With my jig and future CNC built system I could potentially ship an 18" rear module that bolts and seals to the rear of your existing camper after unbolting and removing the kitchen and rear door. Add that and the extended chassis and you have your bigger camper. Since the frame rails are straight and fenders outside the body the rest of the existing body would not matter.

It would not be near as easy as that with current plans but could be designed in future models. All rivets on these are huck fastners which are a pain to remove, but strong so it would have to be planned. I couldn't imagine a serious change by a diy later knowing that they would have to remove huck fasteners.

 

[ahb1989]

Thanks again, I will post up the pictures of the engine stands I used to speed up the frame welding process! I can't believe how much some of us think alike.

I'm hoping that the one piece will help if someone gets stuck and starts pulling their truck out through the trailer. I would hate for the frame to get twisted.

I'm going birch on the inside but more then likely will go with aluminum on the production model. I am really hoping to gain a CNC plasma so that I can cut all the walls with precision and hopefully bring the cost down by cutting labor.

I'm torn on the plywood floor, I like the lateral strength it provides and the thermal break but it could very well be wood free without it.

Here is what we ended up using as a frame turner. I now have dedicated jigs built that pin into the receivers.

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[ahb1989]

Here is the test fitting of the doors.

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You can make out the round LED slots for the side markers adn the oval slots for the 3 in one rear lights. Due to the width this trailer will have to run clearance lights on the top front and back as well as with markers on the fenders, all of which are LED.

 

[ahb1989]

While in the "turn the drawings to life and see what it will actually look like stage" I wanted to check on my running height for some common hill climbs that we have around here, Since if was still in build stage I used the backhoe to see what kind of clearance it has before dragging.

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[ahb1989]

This isn't officially related to this camper, but it was nice to finally get the WMI approval.

 

[M35A2]

Really nice!

 

[PCO6]

... I'm hoping that the one piece will help if someone gets stuck and starts pulling their truck out through the trailer. I would hate for the frame to get twisted.

I wish I'd thought of that!

Nice work over all.