OverlandZJ
Expedition Leader
dieck said:Thanks. Anybody have a picture of this? I'm having a hard time understanding where this is...
Here ya go, note the dimple at end of screwdriver.
New expedition XJ for me (pics)
- Thread starter dieck
- Start date
Here ya go, note the dimple at end of screwdriver.
OverlandZJ
Expedition Leader
Yes, if it's dirty like my spare hit it with some WD40 and a small brush to clean it up. If it doesnt want to take grease, lightly tap a punch to loosen the ball? at the top.
That ball socket is often overlooked in a double cardan shaft and can dry out and cause a vibe and noise.
That ball socket is often overlooked in a double cardan shaft and can dry out and cause a vibe and noise.
OverlandZJ
Expedition Leader
John90XJ said:
Hmmm...wasnt aware of that, thanks for posting that. Any idea what did or did not have the fitting?
The shaft pictured is an original Mopar front XJ shaft. I'll have to check my newer Woods shaft.
John B said:
I really don't know.....talking to my favorite mechanic online right now and he's not sure either. We just know more often than not they don't have a zerk or needle fitting.
I must admit I don't know if you can inject with a needle AND not have a fitting, like twist to one side and shoot it into the exposed area.
To be honest, I've never had an issue with mine.
toledotimber
Observer
I *think* most do, there's just a plug there so you can't see the fitting.
dieck
Adventurer
Status update. I fiinished most of the 60k service, doing it myself this time to learn the truck better. I was pleased with how easy it was to change the oil and filter. After getting the sparkplug rail off which was a PITA, the plugs were very easy to change. Changing the belt was a cinch too. I touched up the alignment again to very slightly adjust the toe in, and am overall very pleased with how simple and easy to work on the jeep is with just a few hand tools. The best tweak by far tho is that I added 2 deg shims on the rear axel to straiten out the rear drive shaft. I was getting nasty vibe past 65mph even with the SYE and this completely eliminated it all the way up to 90mph (which was scary, I won't be doing that again on 33's). I was amazed at what a difference 2 degrees makes tho.
One quick question if you are still reading. The front of my rear D35 axel has developed a leak where the rear drive shaft attaches. I'm assuming this was caused by the drive shaft vib. Any bets on if this will stop leaking now that I've fixed the vib, or do I need to go in and replace the seal?
One quick question if you are still reading. The front of my rear D35 axel has developed a leak where the rear drive shaft attaches. I'm assuming this was caused by the drive shaft vib. Any bets on if this will stop leaking now that I've fixed the vib, or do I need to go in and replace the seal?
dieck
Adventurer
Also, I have a tru-trac in the rear D35. I've heard conflicting advice on if this needs any friction modifiers or special lubes. I thought that it had no clutches and was all mechanical, which would lead me to believe that it requires nothing special. But just about everyone I talk to swears it requires some nasty smelling stuff.
dieck said:
Replace the pinion seal. It's not hard and the problem won't get better until you do it. Make sure you have an airgun capable of getting the pinion nut re-torqued.
EDIT: I just read the factory service manual for both the D35 and the Chrysler 8.25 and they give a fair amount of detail about measuring bearing preload and how to get it set back to spec once you've replaced the seal. If you would like the details straight from the FSM, let me know and I'll email them to you in a .PDF. FWIW, we usually just rattle them back on until it "feels" right and not worry about it. When I pulled my D35 apart after about 200k miles, it looked fine and the gears were then sold off to someone else.
You don't need friction modifier in a gear driven LSD. Just use the recommended gear oil. The FSM says to use 75-90 for normal operations, 80-140 synthetic for trailer towing. Here is the Eaton manual: http://www.eatonperformance.com/PDFs/TrutracOwner-1.pdf
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dieck said:
My pinion seal took a dump this year on the way home from Moab to the PNW. It was about 1,100 miles of gear oil puking out and sailing backward and onto my rear hatch and window. Pretty disgusting. It was the last one however as I did an 8.8 conversion on my return. But done correctly, they last a long time and you might even want to look at the D30 up front and see how it looks if you're in the mood for doing it.
The manual calls for measuring the inch/pounds of torque on the pinion itself prior to undoing the nut. Then there is an additional amount of pinion preload that should be put on the nut when you torque it back down in order to return to the correct torque. Like I mentioned there is a right way and an expedient way....depending on your inclination, both seem to work.
toledotimber
Observer
You hit that right on the nose. I keep getting fliers/coupons from Jeep dealers and quick-lube places here in Toledo for tranny flushes, oil changes, et cetera. Most of them list exactly how much fluid and what type they're going to add; the funny part is that just about every one lists almost verbatim "full ATF flush." I even called two to see if they were just using ATF as a general term. Nope--they actually believe that the AW4 engine uses it.dieck said:
Simply amazing, especially when coming from actual dealerships.