New here, with some questions:

[MountainClimber]

Hi, I'm a carry over from Adventure Rider, got here by way of Scott's rider report on the 950 doing the TAT.
Long story short I'm currently living in the Virginia Beach area and own a '06 ford ranger 4.0L XLT. In about 3 years I plan on relocating to the Elko area of NV and building up my truck for overland travel. Now I know that the ranger isn't the most popular truck for this kind of build but it's what I have and, honestly I really like it so I'm sticking with it. So here are the questions I have so far:

1. With regard to IFS: What purpose do the torsion bars serve in the system? Both the Dixon Bros long travel suspension and the RCD 5 inch lift swap out the torsion bar set up with a coil over (obviously with other modifications) while gaining travel but not sacrificing ride quality. Would it be worth it to change out the stock system with either of the above (the Dixon Bros. kit wides the track width by 4 inches each side, the RCD just raises the truck)?

2. As of right now my plan is to provide the truck with trail armor (front and rear bumpers that improve approach and departure angels) rocker panel guards and upgraded skid plates. Given all that can I expect to safely and reliably travel 3.5 rated trails?

3. Long term my goal is to build a vehicle that I can take from Alaska to at the very least panama, possibly all the way to tierra del fuego. Do you think it's doable with the above rig?

Oh and Safari Pacific, awesome thread, thanks for the great read!

 

[madizell]

The torsion bars provide front spring action. Installing them with coil overs makes them redundant, and they are removed in favor of the coil spring.

 

[MountainClimber]

The torsion bars provide front spring action. Installing them with coil overs makes them redundant, and they are removed in favor of the coil spring.

So lets say I'm feeling adventurous and decide to do a little cutting and welding. Could I just find a set of coilovers to fit the front A arms and do away with the torsion bars, perhaps leveling out the stock ride at the same time?

 

[Mayne]

So lets say I'm feeling adventurous and decide to do a little cutting and welding. Could I just find a set of coilovers to fit the front A arms and do away with the torsion bars, perhaps leveling out the stock ride at the same time?

I was researching something for the jeep TJ in the area of dana 44 chevy outers via Reid knuckles.... And i think for that kind of money the TJ 44 or 30front ends are the right width for rangers. I know the ride might not be as plush, but the coilover 3 or 4 link would maybe require less engineering. Not that I see anything wrong with IFS, as far as not rock crawling goes. (for some reason domesting IFS doesn't seem to hold up as well as import in that area)

Just a thought.

Mayne:safari-rig:

 

[MountainClimber]

I was researching something for the jeep TJ in the area of dana 44 chevy outers via Reid knuckles.... And i think for that kind of money the TJ 44 or 30front ends are the right width for rangers. I know the ride might not be as plush, but the coilover 3 or 4 link would maybe require less engineering. Not that I see anything wrong with IFS, as far as not rock crawling goes. (for some reason domesting IFS doesn't seem to hold up as well as import in that area)

Just a thought.

Mayne:safari-rig:

I was looking at that ave. also. I think you're right about the TJ width, even the bolt pattern is correct for the ranger. There are a couple of SAS builds on Pirate 4X4 and offroadrangers. Right now I'm just thinking out loud and looking at the possibilities. Who knows by the time I am ready to start the build I may want to turn the ranger into a flat bedded, full caged rock crawler.

 

[madizell]

So lets say I'm feeling adventurous and decide to do a little cutting and welding. Could I just find a set of coilovers to fit the front A arms and do away with the torsion bars, perhaps leveling out the stock ride at the same time?

I suppose you might do this, but I would not expect it to be simple, and front suspension engineering is complicated to say the least. If there are coil-over kits for your vehicle which use the stock arms, then no doubt you can do it yourself, assuming you know how. More likely, however, is that the arms need to be redesigned, and that the originals won't allow sufficient room for upper and lower mounts. That is, the coil-over shock will be longer at rest than the space in which it needs to go, as they are all fairly long in the body. Raised upper mounts, dropped arms, even longer arms, all might be needed, and that generally puts the question beyond a bit of creative cutting and welding. Take a look at available kits, and you should get an idea of how others have solved the questions.

Take a look at the attached photo, and ask yourself whether any of these parts would fit under your fender wells without serious modification:

http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/0409or_1996_ford_ranger_supercab/photo_15.html

 

[MountainClimber]

I suppose you might do this, but I would not expect it to be simple, and front suspension engineering is complicated to say the least. If there are coil-over kits for your vehicle which use the stock arms, then no doubt you can do it yourself, assuming you know how. More likely, however, is that the arms need to be redesigned, and that the originals won't allow sufficient room for upper and lower mounts. That is, the coil-over shock will be longer at rest than the space in which it needs to go, as they are all fairly long in the body. Raised upper mounts, dropped arms, even longer arms, all might be needed, and that generally puts the question beyond a bit of creative cutting and welding. Take a look at available kits, and you should get an idea of how others have solved the questions.

Take a look at the attached photo, and ask yourself whether any of these parts would fit under your fender wells without serious modification:

http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/0409or_1996_ford_ranger_supercab/photo_15.html

Nice link! While I am certainly not looking at that level of travel (not possible with the a arm, pictured is a 2wd take off of a twin traction beam) I am thinking of something similar to what the tacomas seem to be sporting.

 

[granitex1]

What size tire do you want to run, that can be a critical factor in your decision. If you have your heart set on say a 37 inch tire than a solid front axle with coil overs would be the way. But putting coil overs on an IFS truck instead or the TBs will be problematic to say the least.

 

[ntsqd]

The reason that folks like the Dixons (great people BTW!) remove the torsion bars and go to coil-overs is that t-bars have a huge rising rate, which makes shock tuning difficult. Can be done, just not ideal for desert racing, which is their focus. T-bars tend to fatigue in desert racing (rare for them to last a year) and are not as easily replaced as coil springs. It is also hard to get much variety in spring rates with t-bars, where coil-over springs come in spring rate increments as small as 25 lbs.

For Overlanding I'm not sure that it's worth the effort. Most people won't notice the subtle difference in the most ideal shock tune/spring rate combo and one that is close enough. Particularly if you are not racing. Perhaps if you find that you're Overlanding at pre-runner speeds then this should be looked at again. I would suggest focusing more on long term durability features (aluminum skidplates, sliders, reasonable tire & wheel combo, preventative maint. items, etc.) and creature comfort features (fridge, comms, shower, potable water storage, RTT, etc.) and perhaps some sort of rear Traction Adding Differential.

 

[Martinjmpr]

FWIW my Montero (1990) had Torsion bars and seemed to do fine. I never did try to lift it or put on heavier springs, though.

 

[ujoint]

I agree, decide on a target tire first. If you plan to visit remote locations, keep fab work on the suspension to a minimum. There are quite a few coil overs already available that are short enough to install on the truck with minor fabrication. I'll be doing a Ranger soon, and I plan to install some 3" glass fenders in the front to increase tire size while keeping the suspension stock. Flat bed in the back.

If you decide to go solid axle, check out the Mopar JK Dana 44's. The price is great, and they come with lockers!

 

[MountainClimber]

A lot of good information here

Thanks for all the replies based on what I've read here and elsewhere it looks like I'll eventually be swapping in a solid axle under the front end. Thanks for all the great replies!

 

[R_Lefebvre]

My main concern on a Ranger trying to run 3.5 trails is frame twisting. I'm of the impression the frame on that thing isn't as stout as we might like, given it was designed in 82, and I think the only changes made since that time was to add more holes for accessories, and more weight to the truck. The racers build cages which probably stiffen the frame immensely.

Which transmission do you have in that thing? I used to be an engineer at Ford powertrain, I designed the trans cooler lines on Ranger (among many others). IIRC, that thing has the 5R55E? (5 speed auto). I don't think there's anything particularly wrong with that trans, but a 4R75W from a F150 might prove more robust than the 5R. Just something to think about.

One thing to check is make sure you have a transmission dipstick/fill tube. Some of the 5R's didn't get one. Instead they have a "sealed for life" transmission. The only way to check the oil level is from underneath, via a standpipe in the trans pan. I can't remember if the Ranger had a fill tube or not. U152 Explorer did not, it had the standpipe, which is ok for mall crawling, but I wouldn't like it for overlanding.

Another thing, IIRC, that transmission probably doesn't have a proper vent system. Probably just a "jiggle cap" on top of the trans. Not the best for water fording. You'll want to upgrade that to a proper vent tube system.

Lastly, not sure how those hold up to high-angle situations. I know Chrysler used to test their transmissions at high angles (for oiling) on the Jeeps. Ford didn't have anything like that. At least not a bench test.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't see a live axle being a requirement unless rock crawling or you simply desire it. Check out dezertrangers.com and race-dezert.com as I'm sure what to do with an A-arm truck has been sorted out long ago. From chasing the Dixon Bros. Stock Mini in the Best in the Desert series, both when they had it and now in the hands of a friend of a friend, the R&P is what will need looking at, with ball joints as the distant second. They have field changing of the ball joints down so I'm led to think that they are not too difficult to do.

If a live axle is the goal I would suggest that you do not use leaf springs. Copy the radius arm system used on Early Broncos and F-100's using the Cage Off Road universal radius arms. It's stout, lives well in desert uses, and rides well considering the huge unsprung mass.

 

[MountainClimber]

Based on the info that I've found on the net and reading through OFFROAD magazine the frame is pretty light and needs a cage to strengthen it (usually as a shock support for the real axle and sometimes around the engine bay, of course the full bore racers need a full cage in the cab that also strengthen the frame).
There is a gent on offroadrangers that welded in a 4x4 inch square tubing on the back end to beef things up a little. He's currently in the middle of a SAS using a 3 link design he came up himself.
As far as the transmission is concerned, I have no idea what the model number is but it is a 5 speed auto (4speed with overdrive?) and there is no dipstick or filler cap. If/when I deside to head on down south I'll likely swap in a C4 or C6, I think advanced adapters makes a good mounting kit for it and from what I've heard the things are bombproof.
Thanks a lot for all the great info in the post!

My main concern on a Ranger trying to run 3.5 trails is frame twisting. I'm of the impression the frame on that thing isn't as stout as we might like, given it was designed in 82, and I think the only changes made since that time was to add more holes for accessories, and more weight to the truck. The racers build cages which probably stiffen the frame immensely.

Which transmission do you have in that thing? I used to be an engineer at Ford powertrain, I designed the trans cooler lines on Ranger (among many others). IIRC, that thing has the 5R55E? (5 speed auto). I don't think there's anything particularly wrong with that trans, but a 4R75W from a F150 might prove more robust than the 5R. Just something to think about.

One thing to check is make sure you have a transmission dipstick/fill tube. Some of the 5R's didn't get one. Instead they have a "sealed for life" transmission. The only way to check the oil level is from underneath, via a standpipe in the trans pan. I can't remember if the Ranger had a fill tube or not. U152 Explorer did not, it had the standpipe, which is ok for mall crawling, but I wouldn't like it for overlanding.

Another thing, IIRC, that transmission probably doesn't have a proper vent system. Probably just a "jiggle cap" on top of the trans. Not the best for water fording. You'll want to upgrade that to a proper vent tube system.

Lastly, not sure how those hold up to high-angle situations. I know Chrysler used to test their transmissions at high angles (for oiling) on the Jeeps. Ford didn't have anything like that. At least not a bench test.