New Member, 95 SR

[vgreen]

Hey guys,

I have been lurking on here for a while now but finally decided to sign up. I have a 95 Montero SR that I bought last summer.


A few days after I bought the rig. Only mod is removing the running boards. Did that the first night .


I hate mud, but living in Arkansas, I really can't escape it!

I love the vehicle, and it has been dead reliable. I didn't get a super deal on it, but I paid for some piece of mind. I bought it with 177k on it, but the previous owner replaced the engine with a used JDM one, and had the top end of the new engine rebuilt at the same time to solve any oil leak issues. That was about 3 years and 25k ago. Being a JDM motor, I am guessing it has about 100k on by this point. All the ancillaries were also replaced, along with the spark plugs, wires, and timing belt. Anyway, the only thing I worry about is the transmission, but I took it to the dealer and had it flushed, and it shifts smooth. It holds first gear longer then I would like when it's cold, and drops into 4th sooner then I would like when warm, but it hasn't shown any signs of getting worse. It now has 184k on it and I have only replaced the battery, brake pads, and a few tie rods. I need a few more tie rods and shocks, and it will good to go.

I have not performed any mods, but I suspect it might of had a slight twist of the torsions by the last guy. Judging by the photos, what do you guys think? I honestly haven't found much of a need for mods. I am hoping to build a sleeping platform for the back, would love to have a bumper capable of using with a high-lift, some larger tires, and a few other odds and ends. As its sits, it is extremely capable and has handled all my offroad excursions with ease.

It currently sits on 31" ******** Cepek FC-II (I think). They were nearly brand new when I bought it, and still have lots of life left, but a few wheelin' trips has made me want some 32s or 33s. It seems everyone is happy with BFG 33x10.5, and I may go that route, but they are pricey! There are so many more options if I move up to a 16" wheel, but that massive centerbore makes it hard to find any. Does anyone know if Toyota or Isuzu wheels fit? I know I could pick up a set of those cheap. I know I have seen a photo of yota wheels on a first gen, the hub may be smaller or they may have been bored out. I suppose having some wheels bored out is an option, but eats into any savings in the tire dept.

Anyway, other than those few questions, I just wanted to introduce myself and say hi! I'm happy to have the wealth of knowledge this little sub-forum has already shown me.

-- Vance

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Chevy 6 lug wheels fit without a problem, especially aftermarket american racing ones. look on craigslist for those. I got my 35's and wheels off a guy with a blazer, bolted right up and have been great.

 

[vgreen]

Thanks for the reply! I didn't think about aftermarket chevy wheels. My father-in-law had a set of 17's off his 2008 GMC pickup, but the centerbore was no where near large enough. I imagine some older 6 lug Chevy's had some pretty heavy-duty hubs.

 

[off-roader]

Thanks for the reply! I didn't think about aftermarket chevy wheels. My father-in-law had a set of 17's off his 2008 GMC pickup, but the centerbore was no where near large enough. I imagine some older 6 lug Chevy's had some pretty heavy-duty hubs.

Nice looking rig.

Tire size should be dictated by the terrain. What kind of wheeling are you hoping to do? For mine, I want it to be capable enough to do the Rubicon or Dusy Ersham trails in the Sierra Nevada mountains so 35's are what I'm running. I may still upgrade to 37s.

Center bore will getcha if you don't watch out. I ordered a set of wheels from America's Tire and the center bore was way too small for them. Ended up getting a different set since the aftermarket ones I had wouldn't balance and ride properly.

Bought a set of aftermarket wheels from a Toyota 4runner owner and although the center bore was very close it was still ~1mm too small to fit the Montero. That was pretty frustrating! Some of them fit fine though so you just have to double check the measurements.

 

[vgreen]

Thanks offroad, I've been following your build!

The goal is to be able to take it out with my few wheeling buddies on the local trails here in NW Arkansas, get me and my wife to out favorite secluded camping spots (most which I haven't found yet), and just facilitate some adventures! I plan on spending some time in Big Bend and southern Idaho. I don't think there is much at Big Bend that would pose a big challenge (been there once before) but there are some tricky and unexpected things out in the Owyhees. I would like to make sure I have the ability and equipment to do some self-recovery if necessary.

So far, the only areas I feel it could use improvement to meet those needs are clearence and the transfer case reduction gearing. Clearance is easy, but gearing im just going to have to live with.

AR trails tend to be either full of roots and large rocks or mud. This rig's wheel base is a bit long for a lot of these trails, and I have run into a few instances where higher break over angle would have made life easier.

Also, I think I might be incapable of writing a short post.

 

[off-roader]

Thanks offroad, I've been following your build!

The goal is to be able to take it out with my few wheeling buddies on the local trails here in NW Arkansas, get me and my wife to out favorite secluded camping spots (most which I haven't found yet), and just facilitate some adventures! I plan on spending some time in Big Bend and southern Idaho. I don't think there is much at Big Bend that would pose a big challenge (been there once before) but there are some tricky and unexpected things out in the Owyhees. I would like to make sure I have the ability and equipment to do some self-recovery if necessary.

So far, the only areas I feel it could use improvement to meet those needs are clearence and the transfer case reduction gearing. Clearance is easy, but gearing im just going to have to live with.

AR trails tend to be either full of roots and large rocks or mud. This rig's wheel base is a bit long for a lot of these trails, and I have run into a few instances where higher break over angle would have made life easier.

Also, I think I might be incapable of writing a short post.

Thanks for the compliment. Been working on it a while although most of the upgrades happened within a 6-9mo's of purchase. For your trails, I suspect you'll be fine with your setup and truth be told, it's usually better from a reliability POV to retain as stock as possible a configuration.

Better gearing for the x case can be had for ~1400 plus shipping from Australia which is a bit more than other rigs but then again, the production runs for these are pretty limited in volume. As you've probably read, I bought a gearset and am currently installing them.

Dual cases may also be an option but you're getting into murky water since very few have done this upgrade.

 

[vgreen]

Yeah, reliability is paramount (although it does have 180k on it!). I doubt I will be making any big changes. Bigger tires, a bar twist, and a few upgrades as I perform maintenence are really all I plan to do. $1400 for only parts is out of my price range for this project.

 

[vgreen]

Hey I saw these guys in the available parts thread, but didn't want to clutter that up with questions. Any chance someone has got this bumper to bolt on a gen II?

http://www.tacticalarmorgroup.com/TAGStore/TAGStore/tabid/71/List/1/CategoryID/351/Level/a/Default.aspx

My guess: If it was as easy as I am hoping (like bolts on but needs some cutting to fit), somebody on here would have done it. I haven't seen it, so I'm guessing it doesn't fit, but thought I'd ask anyway.

 

[Vandal]

Oh, I am an idiot.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...th-a-new-Monty?p=934238&highlight=#post934238

This intro thread sound familiar? I could have sworn I had signed up for this site before, but I didn't use any of my standard usernames and apparently some weird email address I rarely use. I got confused with centraloverland.com, which I signed up for at the same time. Well, scrolled through enough pages to find my original intro! "Hey, that thing looks familiar..."

ANYWAY, vgreen = Vandal. I am going to stick with vgreen, as that is my handle on Central Overland as well. Sorry mods...

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

I've said it once, I'll say it again, 33x12.50s will fit on the stock wheels nicely and tuck into the fenders with very minimal rubbing. You may check into 33x10.50s though as they are size more appropriate for the truck. I did a 1.25-1.5" Old Man Emu coil spring lift in the rear and will be cranking the torsion bars soon.

Having driven a lot of trails in Arkansas (btw check out CentralOverland.com's forums if you haven't already) I think the Montero will do just fine. I would get more substantial skid plates and rock sliders (with kick outs) and call it a day.

The most important piece of advice is to determine what you NEED vs want. There are a lot of items that are "expedition bling" and are superfluous. This knowledge only comes from experience, sometimes learning the hard way after pushing your limits just a bit too far. You mentioned wanting to have a bumper capable of using a high lift jack on. Well, the good thing about boards like this and the abundance of expedition bling, is that you can learn from others. What if I told you you do not need to spend $800 on an ARB bumper?

Hi-Lift's "Jack Mate" is usable on front and rear bumpers as well as the wheels. Couple the high lift with their "off road kit" and you have a multi-use recovery tool. You can lift, winch, clamp, and beat things with your high lift. I have a knock off version but will be upgrading soon as the Hi-lift is a better product than the chinese knock-off from northern tool.

There are several other traction aids that can be used. The trick is to know when to use them. I'm referring to shovels and "sand ladders". Those two can get you out of a lot of sticky situations. Albeit slower than a winch and requires "Manuel" labor. You'll learn pretty quick that getting yourself out of a quagmire is a lot easier when you are just barely stuck, versus spinning your tires, digging down deeper and deeper.

There is a lot to be said about being a skilled driver versus the guy relying on his bolt-ons to help him out when he gets in a bind. You'll be surprised what your vehicle can do with some driving skill. This tip reverts back to the tip in paragraph three, sentence three.

Hope to see you on the trails soon. Join up on Central Overland and participate in a few trips. There is a decent presence in NW Arkansas, and the guide jlandon puts on quite a few trips. I'm sure he wouldn't mind company on scouting trips either. Tell him I sent you.

 

[scrubber3]

Wheel it the best you can with a spotter if needed for a few trips and proceed with you modifications from there. I drove mine for well over a year before I started to do anything more than a torsion bar adjustment and monotube shocks. As said, these things do very well with very little done. You've got a good start pending the fact that you have an SR. Good luck and we are here to help so ask away.

 

[vgreen]

Hi-Lift's "Jack Mate" is usable on front and rear bumpers as well as the wheels. Couple the high lift with their "off road kit" and you have a multi-use recovery tool. You can lift, winch, clamp, and beat things with your high lift. I have a knock off version but will be upgrading soon as the Hi-lift is a better product than the chinese knock-off from northern tool...

...Hope to see you on the trails soon. Join up on Central Overland and participate in a few trips. There is a decent presence in NW Arkansas, and the guide jlandon puts on quite a few trips. I'm sure he wouldn't mind company on scouting trips either. Tell him I sent you.

Thanks LaOutback, I am actually on Central Overland, username vgreen(actually why I was confused on my user name on this one). I haven't been very active, though. I was without internet access at my house for about 6 months! The humanity!

I completely agree with you and scrubber. I plan to keep this thing mostly stock. One of the reasons I bought a Montero, especially the SR, was its capability out of the box. I have wheeled it quite a few times and have got a feel for what I need to change for my uses, and mainly that is taller tires for a bit more clearance and breakover angle. After that, I think a lift will really be unnecessary, but I may decided I want the extra load capacity of the OME springs eventually.

Thanks for the tip about the Jack Mate, I had missed that accessory. If that is the case, I will be happy with my stock bumpers. Thank you guys for all the advice and welcomes.

 

[RichardT]

Welcome to the forum! The 1.25 OME lift with 33x10.5 tires seems to be a pretty common combo of mods on this forum, and from what I've been able to tell, depending on the type of wheeling you plan to do (you said big roots, rocks, and mud?) seem to be sufficient with our rigs, which are very capable. I have those mods myself, and I'm still trying to catch up with my driving abilities, as I feel this is the main thing holding me back in certain situations when wheeling, not the rig, happy wheeling!

 

[vgreen]

Well, crap. Yesterday my wife was pulling out of fast food restaurant, turned right on to a main road and immediately heard a loud *POP* *BANG* from the rear, followed by no more forward movement. She said if felt like she hit something, it kinda stopped the vehicle (for clarification, she did not actually hit anything). She told me she thought the transmission broke and got it towed back to the house. I got to look at it last night for a few minutes, maybe you guys can help me narrow down what broke.

I put it in drive, and the truck does not move at all, but the driveshaft is still spinning, at what appears to be a normal speed for idling through a parking lot, and it's accompanied by a creaking noise from the rear. Think rusty creaking wheel on a shopping cart. "Weet-weet, weet-weet, weet-weet." It also makes a weird noise when I put the it back in park, from somewhere closer to the transmission. So I am guessing it is something in the diff (spider-gear?) or an axle? This boggles my mind, I keep reading how tough these rear-ends are. I have been nice to it, but I don't know about the other 182,000 miles!

So, I think next I should put it in 4WD and see if it will move (therefore confirming it is not the transmission). The thought crossed my mind to try and lock the rear diff and see if it is related to just one side (axle?), but I don't want to do any further damage. I can probably gain the same knowledge with some dis-assembly.

I am a decent mechanic and have plenty of tools to do most jobs (I have two half-assembled Subarus in my garage/yard), but I don't have any experience working on anything with a live axle and haven't messed with the insides of a diff. Any advice is certainly welcome.

Thanks,

Vance

 

[off-roader]

Download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from mitsubishilinks.com. If there isn't one there for a 95, just download the one for the 96. The rear end is the same on both.

I suspect you either broke an axle or the diff itself. If you can lock the rear dif and try to drive forward for a few inches... if it moves then it's a broken axle. If it doesn't, then it's likely something broken in the diff.

Either way, you'll have to get in there.