New Rover...

[Alaska Mike]

That was done to my frame, but I've found that not everyone takes that care to ensure the metal is clean. As it is, I'm still probably going to treat the frame with Waxoyl (or whatever) to keep it from corroding where the galvy doesn't last.

Nothing worse than wathing something corrode from the inside out, knowing you can't do anything about it.

 

[Yorker]

A friend of mine works for a galvanizer and when I asked him he said they dip rusty stuff in an acid bath or something like Slade mentioned which chemically removes the rust before they galvanize it.


You have to realize that for most of these companies they really couldn't care less about doing small stuff like we have. That is why they don't want to screw with us. PARTICULARLY if they happened to get burned by an anal rover nut who ************** about blobby finish on their work once upon a time.

Then they REALLY aren't apt to do it! If they have DOT Contracts etc they have more than enough work to do and small jobs like trim and frames are only taken on because- hey the zinc has to stay molten 24-7 anyway! It isn't like they turn the tanks off and go home at night... So they might as well do it for a few bucks here and their but their real $ comes from other work so they don't feel bad about saying no to Rover people.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Another thought is to make friends with a guy who builds boat trailers and already has a relationship with a galvanizer. Might be able to sneak in with their production run.

 

[01001010]

So it's been brought to my attention by a fellow enthusiast, that my frame may be from a 109' 3-Door wagon or Pick-Up truck. I had a feeling this truck had been worked on before since a lot of the bolts came off easily and a lot of bolts were mixed-matched. The Gas tank location and some of the cross members dont match that of a 109 SW frame. Does the fact that this truck is a UK spec have anything to do with this??

I have not been able to see any identification markings where they should be on the frame.

 

[01001010]

I've spent the evening reading on the axle options and I'm really liking the simplicity of the Sals swap.

I've been looking through the different boards (RN, Dweeb, LRO, etc. etc.) And either I haven't looked right, skimmed right through it, or it just hasn't appeared...

What do I do for brakes on the Sals? Do I keep the Drums? Do I have to go to Disc?

What do I do?

 

[Michael Slade]

Another thought is to make friends with a guy who builds boat trailers and already has a relationship with a galvanizer. Might be able to sneak in with their production run.

That's probably easier than building up a relationship with the galvanizer. I like that idea of befriending the boat trailer guy.

 

[01001010]

Wait a sec...I may be answering my own question here...

SIIIs with Sals, had drum brakes, correct?

 

[01001010]

That's probably easier than building up a relationship with the galvanizer. I like that idea of befriending the boat trailer guy.

That's not a bad idea either!!!

 

[Michael Slade]

Wait a sec...I may be answering my own question here...

SIIIs with Sals, had drum brakes, correct?

Yep, even coil-sprung Defenders had drum brakes for a while. I converted my rear drum-braked Salisbury to a disk setup.

Find some bolt-on SIII Salisbury's and you're set. Drum brakes aren't that bad actually, just a little finicky.

 

[01001010]

Tonight, I took the rear brakes and hubs off WITHOUT braking any bolts! Eureka!! Soon that rear axle will be off. Actually, I think I may have to remove the engine/trans/TC first since I'm afraid that all the frontal weight will make the frame pivot foward right off the stands...lol

I really think I'm going to go with a Sals rear now (after all the reading and comparing I've done - you the help from all of you).

After I get the bulkhead off, I should have a bare frame soon.

 

[greenmeanie]

The art of the game is finding a Sals close to you as they are just a tad expensive to ship. They were only available on some specials and the SIII LWB. I don't think they were imported on any original vehicles. Of course with all the SIII imports over the years they are around but just not very common unless you find someone breaking a truck. If you know someone bringing a container over then you are practically tripping over the things in the UK.

Of course, if anyone has one on the west coast/AZ area I'm all ears.

Cheers
Gregor

 

[Chucaro]

Chucaro,

While I have put it through its paces quite a few times, It hasnt worked as hard as the majority of the vehicles here. Its more of a sentimental thing. The Disco was the beginning of my addiction and I want to make sure its around for a LOONG time!

Steven!!! Sweet deal brotha! How's the fam! Bet the Rangie is comfy as hek for the wifey and baby in comparison to the D1..haha

Scott...

Pictures will be posted after I pick it up...the pics the owner took are really low light and suck pretty bad.

Here's a picture of what it WILL look like only mine will have White wheels...

I'm going to be enlarging this pic and putting it on the walls around the work area for motivation!

:Mechanic:

Beautiful rig, sorry that I did not reply early. I have heaps of fun in my trip to Tasmania.
Cheers

 

[01001010]

Last week I decided that before I take the engine out, I would like to hear it run ATLEAST once. So I read up on the bleeding procedures and got to work. I made it nowhere though.

Today...

...I got all the bleeding points to bleed and still no engine start. I took all the injector pipes off to make sure none of them were clogged. Earlier I did not think about having to turn the engine over to see any fuel squirt from the injector pipes...so a quick browse through the forums led me to the procedure.

Still no engine start and I'm stumped... Its got fuel and the battery has juice to crank. Then I thought...Air...

I put my hand on the intake manifold while my brother in law cranked the ignition. I didnt feel any pull! I was boggled. How could this be?...

After removing the valve cover, I found my answer...

So after a quick look through the "Spare" parts provided, I found a single set of these...

Go figure! I had to drain all of the excess diesel that flooded in the engine. Luckily, there's a bleed valve for this process too! I LOVE this engine!

So far, I've got the rear diff off so if anyone is interested in a stock Rover 10 spline Diff let me know. I'm going to be getting rid of the whole axle housing. I'm going to have it sand blasted and cleaned up though. Whoever gets it will be a step ahead.

 

[01001010]

Work continued today with cleaning and installing the push rods. After cranking it a few times it just wouldnt go...so I decided to remove the head and see just what was going on in there.

I found the following...

• Several of the head bolts were way under-spec and came off quite easy
• The fowardmost tappet assembly is damaged
  
  
  
• The block desperately needs a flush
• The distributor pump is loose

On the plus side,

The cylinder walls look fantastic and the head is in great shape.

Since I'm going to have to get in there, I've decided to just do an engine overhaul. Might as well rebuild it while im in there. But that will be happening at a much later time. As of now, engine work is done and I will continue to move foward and finish removing everything from the frame.

 

[Alaska Mike]

Well, I guess now is a good a time as any to figure out what you have. It seems like you're taking it in stride, which makes me admire the build even more. I would have thrown tools and caused thousands of dollars in damage in a fit of rage. I'm still waiting for one of those outbursts on my build.