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Observer
I like my currie. I redid the entire steering system and added a cooler. The only thing I am still on the fence about is the Antirock swaybar I installed at the same time.
Next up...steering!
- Thread starter BIGdaddy
- Start date
DrMoab
Explorer
Right. If I'm not mistaken it's over half the cost of the new steering.
Mine wore out in around 40,000 miles. I know of two others that had theirs wear out in short order. If you are paying $400 bucks for something like that it should last awhile longer.
There is no question on strength. It's beefy. I just wish it was more serviceable.
ExpoMike
Well-known member
Grrrrrrrrr!!!!!!! No! I was told I was second in line and the first guy backed out. When I asked about taking it, I was PM'ed and said "someone" else had PM'ed before my post but the seller didn't see it until later. What really sucked is the guy was local so no shipping would have been involved. :violent-smiley-031:
ExpoMike
Well-known member
According to their site, $109.99, just over 1/4 the price of the full kit. I was looking up stock XJ ones and the big one on Rock Auto was $75 for a stock item. $110 doesn't seem all that bad to me.
I did notice that all the other Currie joints have grease fittings but not the large piece. Makes me wonder if adding a grease fitting would allow them to last longer... not that for me 40,000 wouldn't be enough. At my current rate, that would be 6 years of travel (not a DD vehicle). I think I could live with the cost per year breakdown.
BIGdaddy
Expedition Leader
I don't understand. Why DO you have to pay so much? Why not buy the 20.00 end? The design doesn't allow it?
OverlandZJ
Expedition Leader
The tierod end is not replacable. Just like your stock draglink.
I havent seen mention of the ZJ V8 setup yet. It's a solid rod vs the XJ hollow. IIRC i paid under $100 at AZ for the tierod,end and collar. I'm unsure if the ZJ draglink would be an upgrade as well.
alosix
Expedition Leader
I find it odd that many of you guys have brought up the currie system, but not the ORO U-turn or the Rockkrawler setup.
I've been running the U-turn for years, one of the single best handling improvements I've done for my Jeep. It gets it driving as close to a 'car' as you are going to get. It feels a lot like a WJ on the road.
If you're looking for strength, the currie system and a whole host of replacement tie-rods help out. If you want it to steer better, you need to get rid of the inverted Y.
Also remember to keep an eye on the track bar setup up front. that has about as much to do with steering feel as the steering links do.
Jason
I've been running the U-turn for years, one of the single best handling improvements I've done for my Jeep. It gets it driving as close to a 'car' as you are going to get. It feels a lot like a WJ on the road.
If you're looking for strength, the currie system and a whole host of replacement tie-rods help out. If you want it to steer better, you need to get rid of the inverted Y.
Also remember to keep an eye on the track bar setup up front. that has about as much to do with steering feel as the steering links do.
Jason
BIGdaddy
Expedition Leader
Well, of course we were waiting, out of respect, for you to bring it up, brother...
:victory:
thanks!
-B
alosix
Expedition Leader
Ha
Really though. You can go through and refresh all of the joints in the front end and it should cure more of the issues of wobble and wandering.
if you're over about 3" of lift though, you're still going to have a pretty dead spot on center no matter how good the steering setup is. To get rid of that the Y needs to be flattened out some (which really isn't much fun) or just gotten rid of. The WJ conversion, U-turn, and Rockkrawler kits will do that.
The WJ setup is nice, uses factory parts and nets some bigger brakes (though with decent pads the need for bigger brakes is negligible). Its a bit spendy though.
The u-turn works out with replaceable joints everywhere and is a really easy install.
The cheapest of the bunch is the rockkrawler. Solid links everywhere. Uses Hiem joints (might be a downside). And one version of the kit a full lock turn was limited in one direction by the links hitting each other, though I'm not sure if that's still the case.
As nice and strong as the currie unit is, I have a hard time with it because its cost is soo close to a few kits that actually fix the geometry issue with the steering.
Jason
Really though. You can go through and refresh all of the joints in the front end and it should cure more of the issues of wobble and wandering.
if you're over about 3" of lift though, you're still going to have a pretty dead spot on center no matter how good the steering setup is. To get rid of that the Y needs to be flattened out some (which really isn't much fun) or just gotten rid of. The WJ conversion, U-turn, and Rockkrawler kits will do that.
The WJ setup is nice, uses factory parts and nets some bigger brakes (though with decent pads the need for bigger brakes is negligible). Its a bit spendy though.
The u-turn works out with replaceable joints everywhere and is a really easy install.
The cheapest of the bunch is the rockkrawler. Solid links everywhere. Uses Hiem joints (might be a downside). And one version of the kit a full lock turn was limited in one direction by the links hitting each other, though I'm not sure if that's still the case.
As nice and strong as the currie unit is, I have a hard time with it because its cost is soo close to a few kits that actually fix the geometry issue with the steering.
Jason
mudbutt
Explorer
Sorry, I'm ignorant..... ORO says the U-Turn is for the TJ. Is the steering set up the same as an XJ??
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alosix
Expedition Leader