OBA pulling more than 50 amps?

saburai

Explorer
Many Thanks!

Guys, thanks for all the good input and info.

A circuit breaker seems like the way to go.

I'll check the voltage at the compressor both with the engine running and off.

I spoke with Viair tech and the switch that I'm using does not have an internal bleed. In any case, the pressure switch is mounted on the manifold which is down stream of the check valve. I think it would be advisable to drill a very tiny pressure relief vent hole in the pipe nipple before the check valve...
 

saburai

Explorer
I checked the voltage drop, .04 difference between directly at the and back at the compressor.

The tag on the compressor states "1HP peak, 3/4HP running"...

Here are a few pics of the set up:

MartinsCeller263.jpg


MartinsCeller261.jpg


MartinsCeller264.jpg


MartinsCeller265.jpg
 

rickc

Adventurer
Rich: rather than drilling holes it's better to get the right bits; a pressure switch and check valve with unloader ports. They are not expensive. Your set-up is tight but I'm sure you will fit the pressure switch in there. My only reservation about your installation is that you have a high amp line inside the firewall. For this reason it is better to fit the compressor either inside the engine bay or underneath somewhere safe.

Check this link:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/york_tj/part2/page3.htm

It outlines a great set-up.
 

timber

Adventurer
I use the same compressor and I ended up using a 80 amp fuse, and that's with a unload valve between the tank and the compressor. started with 40A then 60A which works most of the time but will blow if it cycles too much. Moved to 80A and have not had any more problems.
I took the unit apart and installed it in my Tacoma, it's been used multiple times a week for close to two years, I still am impressed with this compressor
 
Last edited:

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Big fuses should also be available at big car stereo stores. Working on your side is the fact that the "1 hp" rating might be the "peak" rating, which IS the startup current.



Ah, 220, 221, whatever it takes. ;)

Seriously, yes, but given we don't have very much info, let's just base it on what we *do* know.

haha..."schooner tuna!"

"you're doing it wrong"
 

Azlugz

Adventurer
Rich: rather than drilling holes it's better to get the right bits; a pressure switch and check valve with unloader ports. They are not expensive. Your set-up is tight but I'm sure you will fit the pressure switch in there. My only reservation about your installation is that you have a high amp line inside the firewall. For this reason it is better to fit the compressor either inside the engine bay or underneath somewhere safe.

Check this link:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/york_tj/part2/page3.htm

It outlines a great set-up.


Not sure I understand your position on this. There are hi amp lines from the manufacturer under your dash already and provided you wire it correctly and use the proper safety devices, where is the problem. If you are thinking fire, that is very possible on a 30 amp line also. Matter of fact, my Yeasu FT2900 radio uses a 25A fuse and is fused on both the positive and negative. My ZJ is getting a rear mounted (internal) 2nd battery with charging from the main and my Puma pump will be mounted inside along with my 1000W inverter. Further, the inverter calls for 2ga hookup wires and the manual suggests inside mounting and states directly NOT to mount under hood.
 

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