OBI Dweller Review and Discussion
- Thread starter gendlert
- Start date
I found one..The 1 1/4" is the bolt size for the McHitch....
Hello gents. We just picked our 2022 D15. What a great trailer. Our return home was 700 miles. Towed behind a 2020 GMC 2500 4x4 duramax. We did mountain roads and desert. Mostly freeways. Towed at 80mph and no sway. Just smooth.
How, fox shocks and removed the two spares a mounted one spare on the tongue. Moved the box forward to fit the tire between the camper and the box. Custom rack for the tire to stand vertical. To remove you roll it up and out. Still have the propane to the sides of the box. I’ll have pictures to follow.
We bought from the folks at ROA. People will say what they will but our experience with them was outstanding. Really don’t have a bad thing to say about them. Would I recommend them for a dweller? Absolutely. Again, great people.
How, fox shocks and removed the two spares a mounted one spare on the tongue. Moved the box forward to fit the tire between the camper and the box. Custom rack for the tire to stand vertical. To remove you roll it up and out. Still have the propane to the sides of the box. I’ll have pictures to follow.
We bought from the folks at ROA. People will say what they will but our experience with them was outstanding. Really don’t have a bad thing to say about them. Would I recommend them for a dweller? Absolutely. Again, great people.
Yes. They will be posted shortly
Just back from a four day trip to Kentucky from Maryland in the D15. 1,500 miles through moderate mountains and paved country roads gave me some good experience in handling the trailer. Semi traffic on I81 was "interesting".
Observations:
Observations:
- Need to get the front locker struts replaced; it's a real PITA pulling stuff out of there when you have to hold it up.
- Need to replicate WillySwan's galley sink drainage solution; water gets into the utensil tray
- More tongue weight definitely reduces sway and roll issues; achieved with firewood in the locker outbound and 1/2 tank of grey water on return
- Staying under 65 by using my truck's speed warning indicator was an effective way to stay safe on 7 hour legs.
- I find the Truma controller hard to work; it's overly sensitive on the dial. Give me old fashioned knobs and switches.
- Got the E1 error message on the ICECO fridge several times. My battery state was fine.
- The Mchitch release is not seamless; several times I had to crank up the jockey wheel to lift the hitch, then hop up on the bumper while my wife pulled up on the release handle. The little detent pin (?) seems offset and gets caught. Anyone else having this issue when unhitching?
USMCBladerunner
New member
Hello World...Dweller 15 owner here...purchased last summer at ROA in Utah, only a couple of trips take so far. This forum has been invaluable as a source of information and for commisery of my frustrations with the camper (which I do love).
The batteries suck. The front box struts died over the winter. One of the cabinet latches came apart on the backside of the door. (anyone know where to find that hardware?) It is dusty, especially under the bed. The overall lack of documentation is frustrating.
On the bright side...mine tows fine with no modifications up to 75mph on I-80 from CO to CA. My tow vehicle is a 2003 F250 6.0 Diesel longbed, so I think I'm just telling the trailer who's the boss, although I haven't observed the rocking that so many have noted, which should be tow vehicle agnostic.
Yesterday I swapped out the batteries for lithiums. I seemed to have left the inverter turned off after putting the camper under a car port for the winter and the stock batteries were dead. I found them so lacking that this mistake may have been my subconscious just taking matters into its own hands. Regardless, I'm upgraded to lithiums now. I went with Renogy's for the irrational reason to keep the system in brand. I got the self-heating units as I live in the Eastern Sierras and will do some winter camping. Probably unnecessary, but it feels comforting.
NOTE: The owners manual of the battery asserts that the self-heating function requires an MPPT controller. Of course, I didn't read that in advance of the purchase and the Dweller has a PWM controller. Upgrading to an MPPT has its inherent advantages, so that's on the list now, I guess.
Next, I want to add a bit more solar, and will either be putting another panel on the roof or using the Renogy suitcase. I like the suitcase idea, especially if there is a direct plug point on the camper. Multiple posts on this thread have mentioned an Anderson plug or other wiring at the tongue that goes to the batteries, presumable to support DC-DC charging from the tow vehicle. I can't find such a plug/wire on my tongue. Is it on all Dweller configurations? If so where exactly would I find it? There aren't that many places to hide, so I'm thinking I don't have one.
I've ordered replacement struts for the front box from Amazon for only $15. I'll post a link if they work.
Thanks for all the great advice and information from the members. Truly helpful, even if I never would dare to drill a homemade supercharger into my camper to control dust.
Pic is above Strawberry Reservoir in Utah, southeast of SLC.
View attachment 20230111_085647.jpg
The batteries suck. The front box struts died over the winter. One of the cabinet latches came apart on the backside of the door. (anyone know where to find that hardware?) It is dusty, especially under the bed. The overall lack of documentation is frustrating.
On the bright side...mine tows fine with no modifications up to 75mph on I-80 from CO to CA. My tow vehicle is a 2003 F250 6.0 Diesel longbed, so I think I'm just telling the trailer who's the boss, although I haven't observed the rocking that so many have noted, which should be tow vehicle agnostic.
Yesterday I swapped out the batteries for lithiums. I seemed to have left the inverter turned off after putting the camper under a car port for the winter and the stock batteries were dead. I found them so lacking that this mistake may have been my subconscious just taking matters into its own hands. Regardless, I'm upgraded to lithiums now. I went with Renogy's for the irrational reason to keep the system in brand. I got the self-heating units as I live in the Eastern Sierras and will do some winter camping. Probably unnecessary, but it feels comforting.
NOTE: The owners manual of the battery asserts that the self-heating function requires an MPPT controller. Of course, I didn't read that in advance of the purchase and the Dweller has a PWM controller. Upgrading to an MPPT has its inherent advantages, so that's on the list now, I guess.
Next, I want to add a bit more solar, and will either be putting another panel on the roof or using the Renogy suitcase. I like the suitcase idea, especially if there is a direct plug point on the camper. Multiple posts on this thread have mentioned an Anderson plug or other wiring at the tongue that goes to the batteries, presumable to support DC-DC charging from the tow vehicle. I can't find such a plug/wire on my tongue. Is it on all Dweller configurations? If so where exactly would I find it? There aren't that many places to hide, so I'm thinking I don't have one.
I've ordered replacement struts for the front box from Amazon for only $15. I'll post a link if they work.
Thanks for all the great advice and information from the members. Truly helpful, even if I never would dare to drill a homemade supercharger into my camper to control dust.
Pic is above Strawberry Reservoir in Utah, southeast of SLC.
View attachment 20230111_085647.jpg
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Thanks for your insight. As noted in the post, trying to fill the front take only.
There are separate fill ports for the water tanks on my 22 D13. The cap which sort of looks like a locking gas cap is the fill port for the front water tank. The fill port for the rear water tank is located behind the locking access cover for the city water connection.
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Thanks for the response, simple enough...The "dealer" implied it was all related to the valve positioning at the pump..That led to my confusion...Appreciate the help. On another note ,I can't find any info on the jack point for tire removal? I think I saw it in this thread but can't find it...Thank you
gendlert
Active member
Check out Willy's post. I think it's the easiest and safest thing to use on the Dwellers. Hi-Lift jacks work but can be dangerous (I have one on my Dweller but haven't used it). I think the leveling blocks and a flat surface are more stable than jack extensions, but I don't have concrete data to support that claim.
If you leave the water tank valve position lever (under the mattress) in the middle position, it will feed/Fill from both front and rear tanks. It will gravity fill/bleed over to equalize both tank levels over time (in minutes).
If you only want to use/Fill the front tank, position the feed lever to the front tank only position and fill the front tank port.
This same procedure also applies to the rear tank, position the feed lever to the rear tank only and fill the rear tank port.