Lilbluerunner
Adventurer
REasley would you be interested in selling the vehicle side of your Max coupler if you buy a new coupler? I need one.
Wow, I guess this annoys more of the population than I thought. There are a variety of "solutions" from $10 to +$60 including one that looks suspiciously like a re-marketed unistrut clamp. Also, found a u-tube video where a guy tacked on a couple of nuts, extremely poor welds and placed them in a bad position really close to the hitch pin but still a solid concept.
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BX882...+BX88224+Immobilizer+II+for+2"+Receiver+Hitch
http://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Carg..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1NEVG9DZK3PPW32HR93Z
http://www.amazon.com/Roadmaster-06..._UL320_SR320,320_&refRID=0CMJ5B495K0PJG0ZZ42E
http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces...5QJ3nR4x_Olgao16g8qeO7ebaxF5PocWgFxoCN47w_wcB
I think I'll drill and tap 3/8" first and if the internal threads fail I'll move up to a 1/2" bolt and finally an external nut if I have to. I'll use a grade 8 bolt, short as possible, with the first couple of threads removed so any mushrooming wont cause any problems.
update:
Did the deed...
jeep side
trailer side
drill / tapped hole is exactly what i did on my jeep hitch. makes a world of difference and a grade 8 bolt costs a few cents i used a 3/8 tap. though when i got back from my trip to tx a couple months ago i noticed the bolt had managed to vibrate out... it was an almost 1800 mile round trip though.