Oil Burners (3.8L JK) show me your funnel and

[Thean]

Where you store your extra oil.
im burning about 1 quart per 1300 miles. I know all the issues with the engine but im going to run it to death in the mean time.

So, what funnel have you found that doesnt make a mess when stored and where/how are you carrying/stowing your extra oil.
Ill probably use the Quart crate from Artec, but unsure where exactly i will mount it. Obviously access is key, but also being out of the way of stowed gear is another part of the equation.
this is an early JKU BTW.

 

[Alphonse]

5qt jug of Mobile 1 fits perfectly behind my backseat sandwiched between it and the tuffy security enclosure. Funnel in a tote with other emergency supplies. It's a jeep thing lol

 

[2000LJ]

They make paper funnels that store flat and then stand up when you fold them out.

http://www.jmesales.com/catalog/pro...&skuid=NS791&gclid=CKaO75CqkdMCFUkbaQodhg4NrQ

I might add that you should try some heavier oil.... you would be surprised how much it will help. I have 15w40 in some old motors like the 3.8 and it helps.

 

[Dan Grec]

I slowly increased the weight of the oil I am running, and at 15w40, it no longer burns a drop.

Give it a shot!

-Dan

 

[kriegersa]

I slowly increased the weight of the oil I am running, and at 15w40, it no longer burns a drop.

Give it a shot!

-Dan

Listen to this guy, he's traveling around Africa right now on a 3.8, so he has to have his stuff reliable.


Hey Dan,

How did you arrive at your 15w40 conclusion.

I'm running 10w30 full synth (costco deal on 6qt of oil) made a huge mistake with going full synth, it was leaking like crazy (probably rear main seal as the seals didn't swell due to the full synth), so I mixed in a qt of 10w30 dino and the leaking seemed to get less and less.

Now that I have about 4qt's of the 10w30 full syn and 2qts of 10w30 dyno I dont notice any substantial leaking.

So, my next oil change I was going to switch to dino 10w30 oil but your 15w40 comment has me re-thinking things.

Since its nearly summer here, I'm not really worried about winter temps for a while.

Be safe out there!

 

[Thean]

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping someone had a trick solution
But "KISS" is always affective!
As far as oil considerations, i ran a straight chevron dyno 30 weight with no affect. All my reading on tolerance differences on blogs from engine builders regarding the 3.3 & 3.8 made me question going to a 40 weight oil. I have a slight knock or slap only under load & below 2500 rpm which i am chasing, so will continue playing with oils and will be having a blackstone test done on my current 5w30 full synthetic from here on out.
As far as multi viscosity is concerned, here is a good read on them. It really breaks it down and shines the light on the major discrepancy in oil weights.
http://themotoroilevaluator.com/members-blog/understanding-multi-viscosity-oils/

 

[Dan Grec]

Hey Dan,

How did you arrive at your 15w40 conclusion.

Nothing too scientific. It was burning oil, so I wanted something thicker.
Choices are severely limited here on the West Coast, so I got whatever I could!

It's fully synthetic, doesn't leak a drop and now burns so little I don't think I have seen it go down at all in the ~4k miles since the change.

-Dan

 

[SnoViking]

I carry one of these expanding screw on spouts in my truck. Work likes a charm, packs small, fits any jug/quart/liter container I have found (even ATF). Cheap to boot also! $1.50 at Autozone.

 

[gfe jeep]

Some with the oil burning problem have found that replacing the PVC valve fixed their problem. Others have by changing the oil as stated above.
Jeep recommends replacing / checking the PVC valve every 30000 miles.
DIY instructions can be found on some of the Jeep forums here. The part is $16 or less from MOPAR or your local auto parts store....

 

[unkamonkey]

I have an old V6, around 250,000 on it in my 3B. My go to filler is a cut off water bottle, cut the bottom out, work it in through the wires and when you are done, screw the cap back on, stuff the old sock back in the rear. This era of motor has the oil filler at the end next to the firewall, tough to get an open bottle of oil in there without dribbling it down the rocker arm cover and manifolds. You find ways to get things done...

 

[Thean]

Some with the oil burning problem have found that replacing the PVC valve fixed their problem. Others have by changing the oil as stated above.
Jeep recommends replacing / checking the PVC valve every 30000 miles.
DIY instructions can be found on some of the Jeep forums here. The part is $16 or less from MOPAR or your local auto parts store....

Noted, Thanks!

I have an old V6, around 250,000 on it in my 3B. My go to filler is a cut off water bottle, cut the bottom out, work it in through the wires and when you are done, screw the cap back on, stuff the old sock back in the rear. This era of motor has the oil filler at the end next to the firewall, tough to get an open bottle of oil in there without dribbling it down the rocker arm cover and manifolds. You find ways to get things done...

Exactly what ive been doing with exception to it being an oil bottle, but collects dirt and gets residue everywhere.
i was hoping someone came across a killer funnel that sealed at both ends.

 

[Alphonse]

Noted, Thanks!

Exactly what ive been doing with exception to it being an oil bottle, but collects dirt and gets residue everywhere.
i was hoping someone came across a killer funnel that sealed at both ends.

I just wipe the funnel out with a paper towel after I use it. Voila, No dirt and residue everywhere lol

 

[Thean]

I just wipe the funnel out with a paper towel after I use it. Voila, No dirt and residue everywhere lol

Smartass!
living on dirt roads, it doesnt work like that.

 

[motorcycle matt]

Google up Clean Funnel, not sure if they're collapsible, but they have screw on caps.