Oil Cooler & Trans Cooler Hoses

[Worshington]

Hey Gang,

I just ordered oil cooler hoses and two tranny hoses (feed and return hoses) so that I may fix the last two remaining leaks on my 2002 Limited. As an aspiring shade tree mechanic, I was wondering if any of you seasoned Montero wrenchers had any sage words of wisdom. I was just going to drain all the fluids (tranny and oil) and replace the hoses, then refill...It sounds simple, anything I should be aware of?

Cheers,

Jason

 

[Burb One]

Don't have a Montero, but just sprung a leak in my transmission cooler return hose on a recent trip.

The 10 years since manufacture and heat cycles was not helping the hose, coupled with the rubbing of one of the lines on the frame caused the leak. I couldn't see the rub in my pretty thorough shakedowns over the last few years, but since you are replacing the line, you should be able to check everything. Take some of the old line and cut it to size for the potential rub area and then cut it down the middle so it can surround the new hose and ziptie a piece around any current line that has ANY potential to rub or be cut by anything. Doesn't look the prettiest, but also can stop bad stuff from happening.

 

[Worshington]

Thanks for the advice, I will make sure and look for abrasion on the hoses and whatnot. The leak appears to be coming from the connection with the oil pan, so hopefully it's not indicative of anything serious.

 

[Dereksd]

Thanks for the advice, I will make sure and look for abrasion on the hoses and whatnot. The leak appears to be coming from the connection with the oil pan, so hopefully it's not indicative of anything serious.

Check the spouts that the hoses connect to. They are very fragile and may sprout unforeseen hairline cracks (which really sucks)

 

[Michael Brown]

Only use Mitsubishi Diaqueen SP-iii fluid in the transmission. Any other fluid will cause slippage and damage the torque converter. It can be found online pretty easily. KIA and Hyundai SP-III fluid is interchangeable.

Also might be worth doing a whole new fluid change and flush if the hoses are showing cracks. Procedure in link below.
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=15879

 

[KyleT]

The Eneos SP is the only alternative that works too. Available at NAPA


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Worshington]

Thanks for the advice gang!

I will need to get more sp-III fluid as I am down to only 2 quarts. The parts should be here on Thursday and that is when I plan on getting down to business. Until then I have two front Hub assemblies to replace! Gonna be a fun week! Any special tools I will need for the oil cooler hoses?

 

[plh]

You will need the copper washers for the oil cooler hoses. Don't reuse. Most likely will leak.

 

[Worshington]

Hey Gang,

So I began to change out the oil cooler hoses today. I took off the skid plate, and took out the bolts holding in the two brackets that secure the hoses to the frame. I ran into what may be a problem undoing the return hose from the oil cooler assembly. On the assembly there is a nut (about 22mm), the hose has a bolt that goes into this piece is hollow and the hose runs through it into the oil cooler assembly.

Upon trying to undo the nut on the assembly and the one on the oil cooler, the actual hose began to twist! I know that I am throwing this part away, but it was alarming, and I'm worried that I might really cause damage to another part if I continue. Like I said earlier, I'm an "aspiring" shadetree mechanic, and have never done this job before, any guiding comments would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Jason

 

[Worshington]

So, in the photo (sorry for the duplicate), I have been trying to hold the nut on the left with a crescent wrench, and then turn the hose bolt thingy on the right with another crescent wrench. If you look closely you will notice that the hose, by the bolt is twisting with the hose bolt thing and that the hose bolt is not spinning independently of the hose. If I keep twisting, the aluminum portion of the hose will tear. This is not a problem since I am throwing this away and have got an OEM Mits replacement. I am concerned that if the hose twists and tears it will make replacing it more costly/harder somehow.

Cheers,

Jason

 

[RyanY]

It shouldn't be a problem - you're replacing the part so you need only to be concerned about not damaging the oil cooler end and threads. Soaking the entire fitting/bolt/nut with some penetrating oil is a good idea when doing any work underneath the vehicle - notice the term 'penetrating oil", which means something like PB Blaster but does not include WD40.

 

[Worshington]

Thanks Ryan,

I decided that I was being a wimp, and ended up cutting the hose by the fitting with tin snips. This allowed me to get a socket around the hose bolt and torque it outta there. I was afraid that an open ended wrench was putting too much downward pressure on the spouts at the bottom of the oil cooler. It all worked out just fine.

Cheers,

Jason

 

[Fergie]

Bringing this post to the top as I just finished the same project.

I initially thought I had to save the union that bolts to the cooler and line, but turns out I had ordered those and just took them off.

The problem that I am running in to is that one joint is leaking and the other isn't. The passenger side joint has a leak from the line collar to the joint and I cannot crank it any further. Can I use some kind of pipe dope or thread tape to stop the leak, or should I just replaced the union?

 

[plh]

Bringing this post to the top as I just finished the same project.

I initially thought I had to save the union that bolts to the cooler and line, but turns out I had ordered those and just took them off.

The problem that I am running in to is that one joint is leaking and the other isn't. The passenger side joint has a leak from the line collar to the joint and I cannot crank it any further. Can I use some kind of pipe dope or thread tape to stop the leak, or should I just replaced the union?

Did you use new copper washers?

 

[Fergie]

Did you use new copper washers?

I used washers at the banjo bolts. The line itself, where is connects to the oil cooler joint, doesn't use anything. The joint to the oil cooler uses a small o-ring. The leak itself is at the oil cooler-joint-line attachment. I'll snap a pic in the morning.