On your own in Tanzania - self drive

Jonathan Hanson

Supporting Sponsor
For a lot of us in North America, Africa is number one on the list of places we'd like to visit beyond our own beautiful continent. But the logistics and expenses are daunting given the obligatory trans-ocean jump. We can't just drive to the ferry in Spain or France and be in Africa the next day, as can our compatriots in England or Europe. And most of us would rather miss the crowded driven safaris.

One answer is self-drive, which involves nothing more complicated than picking up a set of keys to a fully equipped Land Rover or Land Cruiser and heading out - thataway.

Roseann and I have now utilized over a half-dozen different self-drive companies between us, from dodgy under-the-radar rentals to spanking new Hiluxes. That doesn't make us experts by any means, but we certainly have a feel for the concept and its advantages and disadvantages. We're planning to teach a class at the 2011 Overland Expo for anyone considering taking that route as an independent way to experience Africa.

We just had the opportunity to try out a new self-drive company in Arusha, Shaw Safaris. They run a small fleet of identically prepared Land Rover 110s with the 300Tdi engine. We put over 3,000 miles on one around western Tanzania and southern Kenya.

Landrover1.jpg


The Shaw Land Rovers are well-equipped with everything you need to travel on your own, down to bedding and a starter food kit (with a National Luna fridge). All you need to add is your personal gear. There's a comprehensive tool kit, even a satellite phone.

We started out at a comfortable tented camp owned by a Maasai friend of ours. It's called Whistling Thorn and is situated right outside Tarangire National Park, which boasts one of the highest elephant densities in East Africa.

Whistlingthorn1.jpg


From there we headed south over a very rough dirt road for two days, to Ruaha National Park, where we watched leopards and elephants, and spotted one of the biggest crocs I've seen. There were also some massive baobabs.

Croc1.jpg


Impalabaobab1.jpg


Then we drove a big circle around to Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria. At night we grilled boerewors on the nifty brai that fits over the second, roof-mounted spare tire on the Shaw Land Rovers.

Boerewors1.jpg


Finally we crossed into Kenya, picked up a duffel we'd left at a friend's in Nairobi, drove to the South Rift Valley, and delivered five Sierra Designs tents, six pairs of binoculars, and six Garmin GPS units to a group of Maasai game scouts we're helping to support through ConserVentures.

Scoutstent3.jpg


The scouts are on the front lines of wildlife conservation and anti-poaching efforts, but they're chronically underfunded. The tents were courtesy Sierra Designs, and the binoculars and GPS units courtesy of several generous cash donors.

It was a very successful trip, thanks in large measure to the excellent vehicle we were able to drive wherever we pleased. If you've always wanted to experience Africa but are leery of signing on to a big tour, the self-drive option is worth investigating. I can recommend Shaw without reservation:

Shaw Safaris

Next summer we're planning to lead two safaris across northern Tanzania; we'll transect a remote section of Maasai tribal lands, and stay three days in Serengeti. The proceeds will go toward community conservation projects.
 
Last edited:

preacherman

Explorer
I have spent a lot of time driving in northern Tanzania. I still have some great friends in Mwanza. Have a great time.
 

justinhw

Adventurer
Wow this look amazing! I may be interning at a hospital in tanzania next year - I'll definitely be asking for more info later on! Thanks for sharing!
 

Jonathan Hanson

Supporting Sponsor
We passed through Mwanza on our way north into Kenya. It was a busy place with a spectacular view over Lake Victoria.

Justin - if you're going to be in Tanzania for an extended stay you'll have lots of opportunities to visit some really remote and beautiful wildlife areas. We can introduce you to some wonderful people in Arusha.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Arusha is a great place! We spent a lot of time around Arusha and loved every minute of it. The local camp for Overlander could use a bit of love however...and less partying...

:)

Mwanza does sound familiar too...I believe we passed through this city.
 

Jonathan Hanson

Supporting Sponsor
A fully equipped vehicle such as the one we drove runs about $250 per day, including insurance, a satellite phone, and all the kit. You still have fuel, food, and park fees to deal with, plus any campsite fees and/or lodges you might stay at.

Compared with a $19.95 per day rental from Budget, it seems like a lot. But when you think about handing over the keys to a Land Rover full of gear to someone to just drive where they please in Africa, it's a deal. In 10 days out of Arusha you could put together the trip of a lifetime - Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Kilimanjaro.

Most self-drive companies will put together an itinerary for you, and make reservations at lodges or tented camps if you need them.

If you want to skip the camping and just drive from lodge to lodge or tented camp, a bare vehicle is less, around $225 per day. For a couple that's affordable; if you split it between two couples (there's plenty of room in the Land Rover even loaded), it would be even more affordable.
 

preacherman

Explorer
you could put together the trip of a lifetime - Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Kilimanjaro.

The camping at Serengeti and Ngorongoro is fantastic.... here are some pics to prove my point...

The Serengeti campsite

Jane190DSC_0094.jpg


In the parking lot of camp....

Jane198DSC_0097.jpg


The Ngorongoro crater campsite

Jane242DSC_0112.jpg


Mwanza. Eating lunch at the Hotel Tilapia on the lakeside terrace (they have a great breakfast buffet on weekends.)

Jane226DSC_0106.jpg


The campgrounds are affordable (around $20US per night) and have outhouse restrooms and some have running water. You can only camp in designated and permitted campsites in the National Parks, there is no solo camping...

Little known travelers tip.

We didn't take any food...Every night at the campsite we would negotiate with the cooks of some of the safari companies to cook for us their extra food. Most of the sites have cooks who stay at the campsites and cook for the tour companies who bring in a new load of people (who pay out the nose to camp) every night.

Every day we made a point of getting to the campsite by 4 or 430 and we would just ask the cooks how much to add us to the dinner guests. We usually paid $5-7US per night to eat like kings....Most of the tour company quests where European and treated the cooks like "hired help" and were very demanding and rude. We would cut up with the cooks, hang out in the kitchen, and talk with them at length about where they were from and their families. They rewarded us with piles of fresh food and all the daily gossip of where the best animal sightings were. Sometimes they would even call to other drivers and ask them to keep an eye out for us....Which helped when this happened at the bottom of the crater...

DSC_0017.jpg


I have dug out stuck trucks many times, but never while keeping an eye out for lions. At one point I had to crawl on the roof because a pack of hyena came by to check things out. They left quickly however.
 

Jonathan Hanson

Supporting Sponsor
Good tip on the food!

Park campsites are restricted, but there are a lot of adjacent areas where you can pick your own spot, or ask at a village. Camping near a village is fun, as long as you don't mind spectators . . .

We also use independent camps frequently. Just outside parks, usually with facilities, some for $5 per night.
 

Moody

Needs to get out more
Someday, I would really like to travel in just the same manner-on a self drive trip.

In you opinion, would bringing a 5 and 9 year old on such a trip be out of the question? (Both are fairly well-traveled, and behave quite well)
 
********** A man... thats awesome.

My 5th wedding anniversary is next year... trying to figure out what to do.... Wife wants to go to Istanbul... but... well, not going to happen.
 
A fully equipped vehicle such as the one we drove runs about $250 per day, including insurance, a satellite phone, and all the kit. You still have fuel, food, and park fees to deal with, plus any campsite fees and/or lodges you might stay at.

That really is much less than expected and quite reasonable!
A similar itinerary 10 day trip with Geographic Expeditions is nearly 8,000 per person! But then again, its 5 star.

Thank you for the info.
 

Jonathan Hanson

Supporting Sponsor
In your opinion, would bringing a 5 and 9 year old on such a trip be out of the question? (Both are fairly well-traveled, and behave quite well)

Not being a parent, I might be the wrong person to ask, but my answer would be: Go! I wish someone had taken me when I was five or nine.
 

preacherman

Explorer
Someday, I would really like to travel in just the same manner-on a self drive trip.

In you opinion, would bringing a 5 and 9 year old on such a trip be out of the question? (Both are fairly well-traveled, and behave quite well)

Our kids are 7 and 5 and we are trying to go back next year with them. This time we plan on driving all the way around Lake Victoria and staying with different missionary friends we know in each country. We did the math and we know people spaced out almost a days drive every day. Our friends in Mwanza have two boys as well that age and we hope to all go together. Four adults and five kids under the age of 8.

The hardest part of doing africa with kids that age is you have to buy them a full price plane ticket to get there. My family of four will cost almost 9 grand:Wow1:

Go for it.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,939
Messages
2,880,026
Members
225,627
Latest member
Deleman
Top