redman4556
Adventurer
Some points are 6 in (what I imagine is c channel) but most of the portions have 2x2 tubing welded to the bottom of the 6in rails for a total of 8 in.
Our Box Truck RV Conversion
- Thread starter redman4556
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redman4556
Adventurer
Let me rephrase that. Most of the front part of the boxs rails have the extra 2x2 tubing under it. The back is kind of a mess in my eyes with 6in for most of it with little 1in notches every couple feet as can be seen in the pics.
redman4556
Adventurer
Will snap a few pics tomorrow when I'm at the truck. I'm not quite sure what you mean by structure. Are you referring to the bottom of the box or to the frame rails?
java
Expedition Leader
java
Expedition Leader
OK here is a simple plan.
Cut the hunks hanging down off the uhaul box until your left with just the 6" channel rails. Then build a frame using 2x2 steel box tube, (id use 3/16" wall, but maybe someone else can chime in), they will need to go sideways across your frame rails to support the box, (I feel like the box can support itself outside the C channel thats on it currently) that will bridge the gap between your trucks frame and the box C channel. These should have bars between them length wise along your trucks frame rails.
At the back your going to need to build a angled support to help the overhang, if its truly 6" C channel, there is a bit of stiffness there. But a 2x3 or whatever you can get down as low as possible (make the biggest angle you can) to your frame back there. Heavier wall.
I did some quick drawings. I didn't really do mounts as those can go many ways, but simplest is just bolting it to the trucks frame, but then you will be flexing the box itself and relying on the frame twist.
Black is new 2x2, Orange is truck frame, White is Uhaul C channel.
Basic mount. This is what I would do at the cab side anyway, with spring mounts in the rear is probably the simplest.
Cut the hunks hanging down off the uhaul box until your left with just the 6" channel rails. Then build a frame using 2x2 steel box tube, (id use 3/16" wall, but maybe someone else can chime in), they will need to go sideways across your frame rails to support the box, (I feel like the box can support itself outside the C channel thats on it currently) that will bridge the gap between your trucks frame and the box C channel. These should have bars between them length wise along your trucks frame rails.
At the back your going to need to build a angled support to help the overhang, if its truly 6" C channel, there is a bit of stiffness there. But a 2x3 or whatever you can get down as low as possible (make the biggest angle you can) to your frame back there. Heavier wall.
I did some quick drawings. I didn't really do mounts as those can go many ways, but simplest is just bolting it to the trucks frame, but then you will be flexing the box itself and relying on the frame twist.
Black is new 2x2, Orange is truck frame, White is Uhaul C channel.
Basic mount. This is what I would do at the cab side anyway, with spring mounts in the rear is probably the simplest.
redman4556
Adventurer
This looks right to me, I've just been turning over every rock I can find and calling anyone I can to find someone willing/able to do this. Everyone says we are backed up and won't even get to look at it till middle of July.
redman4556
Adventurer
Two quick questions. Likely silly but what's the necessity for the angle in the rear? Also, the C channel rails under the box are closer together than the rails of my truck, not farther apart. From the mock up it looks like the c channel is wider apart than the trucks frame. I assume I would just use the same design but with the white c channel between the trucks frame rails as opposed to outside them?
java
Expedition Leader
The angle is to help support where the overhang is, triangles=strong.
And sorry I didn't catch they were skinnier, but yes same plan.
redman4556
Adventurer
Makes sense. I REALLY appreciate all the help. jaytech welding and fab has given me a 2-4 week turn around time if I bring the truck/box in on Monday to draw up a design. This is a better time frame than I've heard from anyone else and if we can agree on a fair price they may be who I go with. ANY other suggestions seriously welcomed.
redman4556
Adventurer
Stupid question, I've been researching heating options and was wondering if anyone is using a good 12v option?
I have a mr buddy heater right now and was hoping to stray away from unvented propane use as I'm sensitive to it.
I have a mr buddy heater right now and was hoping to stray away from unvented propane use as I'm sensitive to it.
java
Expedition Leader
No, 12v is not a viable option unless you have multiple thousands of amp hours of batteries... Rv furnaces are cheap and vented propane. Espar/webasto are diesel or gas options.
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redman4556
Adventurer
If the fab shop was open on weekends, I would stick to the mounting aspect. Seeing as I have some down time... I figured I'd ask. Thank you Java, I didn't think there was a viable 12v option, glad to hear confirmation. Vented propane sounds MUCH better. I'll look into such rv furnaces. I'm also considering the option of using a solid fuel stove with a chimney.
java
Expedition Leader
Rv furnaces are cheap but eat both propane and electricity. ~$500 or less for a small one.
Wood stoves are awesome, but take space and are hot, not so good with kids /pets in small spaces.
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