out with the old in with the new

westyss

Explorer
Westyss

Just read your whole journey. You have done a great job on your truck both in build and usage. Congrats

T

Thanks, appreciate that!



Nicely done sir! Thoughtful design and very well executed. Any chance you could post pics of the new actuators? I just ordered 4 of the 22" 400# from Progressive for my Alaskan build.

Thanks , the actuators are identical in every way except...I think the jack screw pitch. My issue with the lower rated actuators was that over time they would not HOLD the load, no problem lifting the load at all, just that it would start to wind down as the actuator aged.
So my thinking was that on the higher rated actuators the pitch on the jack screws are at a reduced angle of attack, or maybe referred to as pitch of the screw, whatever it is called, gravity is pulling down on it at a greater angle, or closer to ninety degrees to the pull of gravity than the lower rated actuators and will still hold the weight even though the actuator may wear and have less internal friction as when new. So... no, I will not post pics of the newer actuators as they are identical on the outside so it would be pointless.:)

Of course this is all speculation as I have not opened up any of these actuators yet, but it seems reasonable due to the actual difference of each unit is not visible nor any different in electrical specs.
Obviously the higher the load rating the slower it goes.
 

ripperj

Explorer
Ok thanks
Alaskans have a small hole drilled thru the piston in the raised position. Once the roof is up you put in the pin, which rests on the cylinder, taking the load off the hydraulics. Would this work on the actuators?
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
So my thinking was that on the higher rated actuators the pitch on the jack screws are at a reduced angle of attack, or maybe referred to as pitch of the screw, whatever it is called, gravity is pulling down on it at a greater angle, or closer to ninety degrees to the pull of gravity than the lower rated actuators and will still hold the weight even though the actuator may wear and have less internal friction as when new.

If the load on the actuator is high enough then, despite the mechanical disadvantage, the force on the rod can potentially be enough to turn the gears in the gearbox and allow the actuator to lower over time.
Your assessment that the pitch of the screw will play a part here is absolutely correct. The actuator will extend/retract slower with a greater pitch, but it will also resist more to being pushed back in.

If the actuator is speced correctly then there should be no need for a physical stop, as suggested.
Hydraulic and mechanical actuators are two totally different animals. With hydraulics you should never rely on the oil pressure to hold the load when the pump is not running.

The other option mate... stop transporting elephants on your roof. ;)
 

westyss

Explorer
If the load on the actuator is high enough then, despite the mechanical disadvantage, the force on the rod can potentially be enough to turn the gears in the gearbox and allow the actuator to lower over time.
Your assessment that the pitch of the screw will play a part here is absolutely correct. The actuator will extend/retract slower with a greater pitch, but it will also resist more to being pushed back in.

If the actuator is speced correctly then there should be no need for a physical stop, as suggested.
Hydraulic and mechanical actuators are two totally different animals. With hydraulics you should never rely on the oil pressure to hold the load when the pump is not running.

The other option mate... stop transporting elephants on your roof. ;)

Well the cupboards and drawers are all full so where else would one keep his elephant? The roof is the only spot left! I suppose you are going to have some fancy place for your elephant!:26_13_1:

Ok thats my rhino and not an elephant but they both need storage spots.
 

Nations1

New member
Sika Durability?

I am ashamed that as a grown man I have read this entire thread.... was there a mention of a procrastinators club? You have built an amazing vehicle at a very high standard.

I am Sika certified in the automotive glass replacement industry so I am familiar with their products, I am curious what the durability of the joints on your rig has turned out to be? Did you have to prepare the panels with any UV protection at the joints? They make a wide range of products and I may have missed if you stated which system you used.

Cheers :)
 
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Nations1

New member
All of the joints are covered with aluminium flashings, so I do not think there is an issue with UV affecting the glue.

It appears as though the aluminum corners are structural, not just "flashing". With urethane adhesives UV rays break down the adhesive abilities of the material. That is why on windshields you will see the black band at the edges, it is not just cosmetic. Modern manufactures effort to completely conceal the adhesive from any UV penetration. Some of the marine grade sealant/adhesives have a UV component added. It is amazing the strength of this type of adhesive.
 

westyss

Explorer
It appears as though the aluminum corners are structural, not just "flashing". With urethane adhesives UV rays break down the adhesive abilities of the material. That is why on windshields you will see the black band at the edges, it is not just cosmetic. Modern manufactures effort to completely conceal the adhesive from any UV penetration. Some of the marine grade sealant/adhesives have a UV component added. It is amazing the strength of this type of adhesive.

The structural adhesive is Sika 252, that was used for bonding all the components together and after some curing Sika 221 was used to seal and smooth out seams and joints, it states on the data sheet that it is resistant to aging and weather, take that for what its worth I guess, looking at it now, the joints are over 5 years old now and dont show any sign of cracking or really anything, still holds the right color........as for UV damage that may not show up but it is not being used structurally so it is not a problem, if it needs to be re done that is what I will do, cut out the old, and in with the new.
 

chosen

Observer
Very exciting build thread to follow, thank you so much for sharing and being man enough to mention things like the "heater incident"... Your thread has proven to be very educational. May I ask how you find the Fuso to drive on long journeys and over rough terrain? I am now officially inspired... after such a long search for the next vehicle to base a camper build on I have settled on a 4x4 truck (vs. Landcruiser, pickup, etc.). The features you show and the benefits of the extra weight carrying potential make this a brainless decision really.

I look forward to reading more, if you post your work on the shower area at some stage I will be especially intrigued.
 

westyss

Explorer
Very exciting build thread to follow, thank you so much for sharing and being man enough to mention things like the "heater incident"... Your thread has proven to be very educational. May I ask how you find the Fuso to drive on long journeys and over rough terrain? I am now officially inspired... after such a long search for the next vehicle to base a camper build on I have settled on a 4x4 truck (vs. Landcruiser, pickup, etc.). The features you show and the benefits of the extra weight carrying potential make this a brainless decision really.

I look forward to reading more, if you post your work on the shower area at some stage I will be especially intrigued.

Chosen, thanks for the comments,

we have done a few long drive trips but really the method that we travel is to go slow meandering our way to the next stop, that is not to say that we never do long runs but we do try to avoid them. With that said on those longer runs we find it not too bad, we have air seats and I find mine very comfortable, my wife slouches in hers so she is sometimes achy from the drive, but overall its OK. I can drive many hours if needed but any vehicle gets tiresome, one part of the ride that I don't like much is when there are a certain frequency of whoop de do's where the truck does some pitch oscillations that after a while my shocks don't dampen, new shocks that don't fade are needed.
On rough terrain you have to go slow to prevent side to side motion and it will not absorb bumps like a cruiser or jeep, but basic dirt roads are no problem and this is the preferred road base.

Shower and the final finishing of the truck is on standby for a bit due to house reno's but I will post up any changes.
 

westyss

Explorer
You said you bought your cassette toilet from RUF where and what is RUF? Great build!!

Darrin Fink used to build Fuso based rigs and started up a company called RUF, there are several of these trucks on the portal and I am not really sure if he still deals with them as my purchase was some time ago now, 4 years or so, I do not have his number right now but maybe someone that reads this might help out otherwise I may be able to find out.
Thanks for the kudos
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
there's something to be said for buying RV doors, it's way easier than making your own!!

I would think that getting some panels made would be fairly easy no? Have you heard of anyone trying and being denied?? I haven't talked to the people I got mine from , but I would think they could accommodate a purchaser, I do recommend this product, its just pricey. But I guess you are understanding that with the amount of work to build yours up verses buying, like me, some things are hard to justify the cost for if I can make it, it just shows where the cost is once a guy spends lots of hours and money making something from scratch.

Yes but damn this thing is a work of art! If I ever see you on the road don't get creeped out if some guy is admiring your doors ha ha!
 

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