Chazz Layne
Administrator
Ugh... good info, sounds like a PITA though. I think we'll take the paid-off truck when we go.
Panamericruiser - An Overland Journey through the Americas
- Thread starter Christian P.
- Start date
Ugh... good info, sounds like a PITA though. I think we'll take the paid-off truck when we go.
For those of you who paid too much at the Honduras border...read this posting (warning, not PG). Pretty funny way to mess up with the helpers...
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14929902&postcount=280
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14929902&postcount=280
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Crossing into Panama
The Costa Rica/Panama border on CA-1 at Pasoa Canoas was a bit of a disappointment.
For various reasons I was expecting it to be much more modern and efficient. I had visions of new buildings, clean windows and lot of computers...not quite right.
The Costa Rica side was very easy and fast. An "Agua de Coco" always helps...
We did not cancel our 3 months permit for Costa Rica as I need to go back there. So we only had to get our exit stamp which took a few minutes.
However the Panama side was pretty brutal. It took us several hours to do just the same steps as usual.
-Get the entry stamp. We had to pay $1 for the local municipality tax (for which you get a cute little stamp in your passport) and the tourist entry fee (can't remember how much right now but not much).
-Apparently the tourist visa is now good to up to 6 months.
-For the car permit, you first need to get the insurance (seguros). It cost us $15 for one month.
-Then you get a seal of approval from someone inside the circular building right behind the immigration office. The officers in this building are also the people who search the bags from people in transit, so depending on the moment they may be really busy or doing nothing.
-The temporary permit for the car is on the other side of that circular room, right next to the empty tourism office. There is now an Expedition Portal sticker on the window to help you find it...
This is where things stopped moving. Again, just some patience and positive attitude and we eventually got our permit. One reason why it took us longer is because the lady had the insurance had put "motorcycle" instead of truck on my permit and had entered the license plate number wrong. So I had to go get a new insurance permit, get the approval seal and go back to the permit office.
-Just like for Nicaragua and Costa Rica, the car permit is free.
-Permit is only valid for one month. I asked for more but no luck. You can extend it somewhere in Panama city.
We did not have to pay any bribe or use any helper. Actually at this point we were almost hoping to get one as it was getting late and wanted to just relax....where are the good helpers when you need them?
The process is easy - it just took a long time. I spend a long time chatting with Costa Rica locals who were going to Panama for a short 8 days visit and they were also there for a few hours.
It always nice to see that even the locals go through the same torture as the gringos...
The border area is also pretty chaotic - not the best first impression of Panama.
Luckily that will change later...
:sombrero:
The Costa Rica/Panama border on CA-1 at Pasoa Canoas was a bit of a disappointment.
For various reasons I was expecting it to be much more modern and efficient. I had visions of new buildings, clean windows and lot of computers...not quite right.
The Costa Rica side was very easy and fast. An "Agua de Coco" always helps...
We did not cancel our 3 months permit for Costa Rica as I need to go back there. So we only had to get our exit stamp which took a few minutes.
However the Panama side was pretty brutal. It took us several hours to do just the same steps as usual.
-Get the entry stamp. We had to pay $1 for the local municipality tax (for which you get a cute little stamp in your passport) and the tourist entry fee (can't remember how much right now but not much).
-Apparently the tourist visa is now good to up to 6 months.
-For the car permit, you first need to get the insurance (seguros). It cost us $15 for one month.
-Then you get a seal of approval from someone inside the circular building right behind the immigration office. The officers in this building are also the people who search the bags from people in transit, so depending on the moment they may be really busy or doing nothing.
-The temporary permit for the car is on the other side of that circular room, right next to the empty tourism office. There is now an Expedition Portal sticker on the window to help you find it...
This is where things stopped moving. Again, just some patience and positive attitude and we eventually got our permit. One reason why it took us longer is because the lady had the insurance had put "motorcycle" instead of truck on my permit and had entered the license plate number wrong. So I had to go get a new insurance permit, get the approval seal and go back to the permit office.
-Just like for Nicaragua and Costa Rica, the car permit is free.
-Permit is only valid for one month. I asked for more but no luck. You can extend it somewhere in Panama city.
We did not have to pay any bribe or use any helper. Actually at this point we were almost hoping to get one as it was getting late and wanted to just relax....where are the good helpers when you need them?
The process is easy - it just took a long time. I spend a long time chatting with Costa Rica locals who were going to Panama for a short 8 days visit and they were also there for a few hours.
It always nice to see that even the locals go through the same torture as the gringos...
The border area is also pretty chaotic - not the best first impression of Panama.
Luckily that will change later...
:sombrero:
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Rock-Wear
Observer
:xxrotflma
lostworldexpedition
Explorer
Pasoa Canoas is a bit of a no mans land, and there is duty free shopping area where you can find just about anything.
While in Panama we got 90 days visa for us and 30 for the Landcruiser. After a month we went to our insurance company (Suramericana) and got another 60 days of insurance after that we went to customs and they extended the vehicle permit 60 days.
The border on the Caribean side at Sixaola is even more interesting
While in Panama we got 90 days visa for us and 30 for the Landcruiser. After a month we went to our insurance company (Suramericana) and got another 60 days of insurance after that we went to customs and they extended the vehicle permit 60 days.
The border on the Caribean side at Sixaola is even more interesting
Panama - Final Destination (for now...)
One of the goals of this trip is to get the LandCruiser down to Panama and ship it to South America where we will be doing more explorations and go at a much slower pace.
While we are here in Panama, we are also trying to gather as much information as possible for our members who are interested in driving down to South America.
Panama City can be a bit daunting at first. Especially after you cross the bridge (Puente de Los Americas) and head toward downtown, you drive through one of the worst neighborhoods of the city.
Arrive at night and take the wrong turn and you will feel like you end up in Zombiland.
It is a bit sad that this is the first impression of Panama City.
Fortunately there is much more to explore and this city is actually very nice.
The area right under the bridge and on along the shore is divided in multiple neighborhoods called Diablo/Balboa/Clayton/etc.
This is where the Americans used to live and it is still one of the best area of Panama City.
So in this post I will try to share as much information as possible on the city itself.
There are not really any campsite or any central gathering place for the multiple overlanders in the city.
Depending on your budget and interest, overlanders are scattered all over town.
The most popular backpacker place is called Luna's Castle. This place is like ground zero for backpackers. I must admit it is a really nice concept. The hostal is in an old colonial building, with great views of the city and has a courtyard inside and a nice bar downstairs in the basement. This is where you want to be if you want to party and meet a bunch of other travelers.
This place however has no parking. There was one bike from Alberta in the entrance hallway but I would not recommend it. The hallway goes to the bar which means you are going to have hundreds of people walking by your bike every hour.
Another hostal type of place that is used by overlanders is called La Casa de Carmen. They had a room for us there for $55 which we decided not to take.
The place itself is clean but we had read reviews of bedbugs and by the look of the mattresses and customers there I am inclined to believe it.
There is a parking outside the gate which the guy at the front desk assured it was safe, but judging by how stressed he was at closing the gate we had some suspicions.
Luis/Lacey stayed there so perhaps he will have an extra opinion.
About 2 houses before the hostel there is a motorcycle repair shop. The owner's son is named Tony and owns a big GoldWing. He said that he regularly sees motorcyclists going to this hostel and often time fixes their bikes.
There are a few other backpackers/hostel scattered around town but when we called them they were all full.
One is called Hostal de Clayton and seemed decent, but a bit out of the way.
We ended up in a very nice hotel for $80 called Coral Suites, right in the middle of El Cangrejo district which after Casco Viejo is probably the most entertaining neighborhood. This is more like an appartment, with small kitchen, wi-fi and plenty of parking, even big enough to fit my Land Cruiser.
We have now rented an apartment as Shaun will be here for at least one month as I go back to the USA this week.
Since then, we have however found another backpacker/hostel near the bridge where we have met 2 other overlanders who are currently staying there. This is in my opinion the most decent place to stay in town. I can't seem to find their website right now unfortunately but I will update this post as soon as I do.
The Balboa Yacht Club is also a place that comes up often in the "overlander circle".
We went there and checked it out.
You can indeed park your vehicle there for free. The guard was very nice and they are used to have overlanders there.
The view is great and the food/drinks at the bar are really cheap.
However when we were there it was raining and the whole parking place was rather very muddy.
They have toilets at the restaurant but not sure if they have shower/wifi.
Here are few pictures of the Yacht Club:
There are a lot of well tricked out 4x4s around Panama City - this one was parked there.
Please also not that there is another Yacht Club on Balboa avenue closer to downtown which is newer and does not really have space for overlanders. There was however one big large RV (from Quebec) parked there when we drove through.
One of the goals of this trip is to get the LandCruiser down to Panama and ship it to South America where we will be doing more explorations and go at a much slower pace.
While we are here in Panama, we are also trying to gather as much information as possible for our members who are interested in driving down to South America.
Panama City can be a bit daunting at first. Especially after you cross the bridge (Puente de Los Americas) and head toward downtown, you drive through one of the worst neighborhoods of the city.
Arrive at night and take the wrong turn and you will feel like you end up in Zombiland.
It is a bit sad that this is the first impression of Panama City.
Fortunately there is much more to explore and this city is actually very nice.
The area right under the bridge and on along the shore is divided in multiple neighborhoods called Diablo/Balboa/Clayton/etc.
This is where the Americans used to live and it is still one of the best area of Panama City.
So in this post I will try to share as much information as possible on the city itself.
There are not really any campsite or any central gathering place for the multiple overlanders in the city.
Depending on your budget and interest, overlanders are scattered all over town.
The most popular backpacker place is called Luna's Castle. This place is like ground zero for backpackers. I must admit it is a really nice concept. The hostal is in an old colonial building, with great views of the city and has a courtyard inside and a nice bar downstairs in the basement. This is where you want to be if you want to party and meet a bunch of other travelers.
This place however has no parking. There was one bike from Alberta in the entrance hallway but I would not recommend it. The hallway goes to the bar which means you are going to have hundreds of people walking by your bike every hour.
Another hostal type of place that is used by overlanders is called La Casa de Carmen. They had a room for us there for $55 which we decided not to take.
The place itself is clean but we had read reviews of bedbugs and by the look of the mattresses and customers there I am inclined to believe it.
There is a parking outside the gate which the guy at the front desk assured it was safe, but judging by how stressed he was at closing the gate we had some suspicions.
Luis/Lacey stayed there so perhaps he will have an extra opinion.
About 2 houses before the hostel there is a motorcycle repair shop. The owner's son is named Tony and owns a big GoldWing. He said that he regularly sees motorcyclists going to this hostel and often time fixes their bikes.
There are a few other backpackers/hostel scattered around town but when we called them they were all full.
One is called Hostal de Clayton and seemed decent, but a bit out of the way.
We ended up in a very nice hotel for $80 called Coral Suites, right in the middle of El Cangrejo district which after Casco Viejo is probably the most entertaining neighborhood. This is more like an appartment, with small kitchen, wi-fi and plenty of parking, even big enough to fit my Land Cruiser.
We have now rented an apartment as Shaun will be here for at least one month as I go back to the USA this week.
Since then, we have however found another backpacker/hostel near the bridge where we have met 2 other overlanders who are currently staying there. This is in my opinion the most decent place to stay in town. I can't seem to find their website right now unfortunately but I will update this post as soon as I do.
The Balboa Yacht Club is also a place that comes up often in the "overlander circle".
We went there and checked it out.
You can indeed park your vehicle there for free. The guard was very nice and they are used to have overlanders there.
The view is great and the food/drinks at the bar are really cheap.
However when we were there it was raining and the whole parking place was rather very muddy.
They have toilets at the restaurant but not sure if they have shower/wifi.
Here are few pictures of the Yacht Club:
There are a lot of well tricked out 4x4s around Panama City - this one was parked there.
Please also not that there is another Yacht Club on Balboa avenue closer to downtown which is newer and does not really have space for overlanders. There was however one big large RV (from Quebec) parked there when we drove through.
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Scott Brady
Founder
the Yacht club bar and restaurant has WiFi and decent gin and tonic.
I strongly believe that knowing ahead what to expect at the border helps tremendously when crossing.
So here are pictures of some of the documents you will be getting along the way:
This is the certificate to confirm that you have cancelled your Mexican temporary permit:
This is the sticker that you need to put on your windshield for the car permit in Guatemala:
This is just a receipt to show that you have passed the inspection entering Costa Rica - this is free:
This is the insurance certificate for Costa Rica:
This is the temporary importation permit for Costa Rica:
This is a $4 receipt for entering Nicaragua:
This is the insurance certificate for Panama
This is the $10 receipt for the tourist visa for Nicaragua
This is a $3 receipt for entering Honduras
This is the fumigation certificate for Panama ($1)
This is the temporary importation permit for Guatemala
This is the receipt for the importation permit for Guatemala (55 QTZ)
As you can see, everything is pretty clear and well documented.
There is not that much room for bribes and extra - there is nothing really mysterious about it.
So here are pictures of some of the documents you will be getting along the way:
This is the certificate to confirm that you have cancelled your Mexican temporary permit:
This is the sticker that you need to put on your windshield for the car permit in Guatemala:
This is just a receipt to show that you have passed the inspection entering Costa Rica - this is free:
This is the insurance certificate for Costa Rica:
This is the temporary importation permit for Costa Rica:
This is a $4 receipt for entering Nicaragua:
This is the insurance certificate for Panama
This is the $10 receipt for the tourist visa for Nicaragua
This is a $3 receipt for entering Honduras
This is the fumigation certificate for Panama ($1)
This is the temporary importation permit for Guatemala
This is the receipt for the importation permit for Guatemala (55 QTZ)
As you can see, everything is pretty clear and well documented.
There is not that much room for bribes and extra - there is nothing really mysterious about it.
lostworldexpedition
Explorer
the Yacht club bar and restaurant has WiFi and decent gin and tonic.
Indeed wi-fi and good G&T's (Lacey's drink of choice, I am more of a vodka tonic). There are also showers downstairs towards the docks; however, we never asked if we could use them we just did.
As far as Casa de Carmen Hostal goes, we paid $45 for a private room with AC and TV -quite a splurge for us- and the beds although definitely not the best, did not have bed bugs... we have experienced bedbugs in this trip -first time was at a North Carolina Motel 6- hate them and that is one reason we love our RTT; our bed, our sheets, our pillows=no bedbugs
Can it be driven to Costa Rica - and then driven back in after 3 days? Or does it need to leave for good?
Also - any insight on the importation procedure? I'm starting to work on this right now but was wondering if anyone could shed some light.
lostworldexpedition
Explorer
Yes, after 3 months- 3 days in Costa Rica and you get another 90 days. We met a couple in the Highlands of Panama that did that for years before importing the vehicle.
As far as importing the vehicle... Sorry can't help you there.
Costa Rica on the other hand is 90 days in 90 out! Once your 90 day vehicle permit is up the vehicle has to leave the country for 90 days. You may "pause" the visa at customs when the vehicle leaves the country or if the vehicle is stored at a government sponsored facility.
We had a really busy schedule exploring Panama City and making great local connections.
Among other activities, we spend a good amount of time in Casco Viejo. The old city is changing quickly, with more and more buildings being restored and new businesses opening everywhere. But for now, it still has an authentic feel to it - with people still squatting abandoned building. It is a great mix of locals and tourists. You can just wander around and enter old courtyard, and find yourself in a middle of an impromptu bar and art gallery.
Go now before it becomes too popular and touristy.
We had the chance to be there right for the Jazz Festival - a small but colorful event.
While in Panama City, we also found ourselves attending the Bike week show.
You have to have neon lights...even on your bike:
A classic Yamaha in excellent shape:
Shaun did try his luck at the "Ride as slow as you can" contest but unfortunately did not win...
Among other activities, we spend a good amount of time in Casco Viejo. The old city is changing quickly, with more and more buildings being restored and new businesses opening everywhere. But for now, it still has an authentic feel to it - with people still squatting abandoned building. It is a great mix of locals and tourists. You can just wander around and enter old courtyard, and find yourself in a middle of an impromptu bar and art gallery.
Go now before it becomes too popular and touristy.
We had the chance to be there right for the Jazz Festival - a small but colorful event.
While in Panama City, we also found ourselves attending the Bike week show.
You have to have neon lights...even on your bike:
A classic Yamaha in excellent shape:
Shaun did try his luck at the "Ride as slow as you can" contest but unfortunately did not win...
Back to Costa Rica
After almost a week in Panama City, it was time for me to get back to the USA.
I left Shaun in his new apartment downtown (he has an extra room for rent btw - perfect for overlanders) and hit the road alone back to Costa Rica.
Again, I left Panama City around 7pm in pitch dark...and made it to David around midnight.
There is a reason why I love the Land Cruisers so much and that illustrates it - I need a vehicle I can trust anytime.
In fact, I like it so much that I may have been driving a bit too fast....like 90 km/h in a 60 or 40 zone. In both Panama and Costa Rica they have these silly speed limit along CA-1 that keeps changing all the time and are always too low it seems.
So I get pulled over and handed my first bribe to avoid the fine...if you can call it this way. Shaun, following some random advices from a surfer friend who goes to Mexico a lot, had purchased a couple of 80's era Spanish Playboy magazine - just in case. We actually got them in a very cool used book store in Phoenix after finding in their secret closet...
Well, the only one I had left in car is now in the hand of a Panamanian police officer somewhere around Santiago.
We had a good chat and he showed me their latest gadgets to report the fine(s). He has a cell phone with a camera and take a picture of the license plate then send it directly to the head office and you get charge $70. Apparently when you try to leave the country you have to pay the fine at the border. The whole thing seemed pretty legit and well put together.
To be honest, I could have probably gotten away without giving anything as he had already handled me back my driver license. But I felt good knowing that the magazine would have a second life.
And $70 is almost enough to fill up half of my tank.
After almost a week in Panama City, it was time for me to get back to the USA.
I left Shaun in his new apartment downtown (he has an extra room for rent btw - perfect for overlanders) and hit the road alone back to Costa Rica.
Again, I left Panama City around 7pm in pitch dark...and made it to David around midnight.
There is a reason why I love the Land Cruisers so much and that illustrates it - I need a vehicle I can trust anytime.
In fact, I like it so much that I may have been driving a bit too fast....like 90 km/h in a 60 or 40 zone. In both Panama and Costa Rica they have these silly speed limit along CA-1 that keeps changing all the time and are always too low it seems.
So I get pulled over and handed my first bribe to avoid the fine...if you can call it this way. Shaun, following some random advices from a surfer friend who goes to Mexico a lot, had purchased a couple of 80's era Spanish Playboy magazine - just in case. We actually got them in a very cool used book store in Phoenix after finding in their secret closet...
Well, the only one I had left in car is now in the hand of a Panamanian police officer somewhere around Santiago.
We had a good chat and he showed me their latest gadgets to report the fine(s). He has a cell phone with a camera and take a picture of the license plate then send it directly to the head office and you get charge $70. Apparently when you try to leave the country you have to pay the fine at the border. The whole thing seemed pretty legit and well put together.
To be honest, I could have probably gotten away without giving anything as he had already handled me back my driver license. But I felt good knowing that the magazine would have a second life.
And $70 is almost enough to fill up half of my tank.
When we met with the German couple traveling in their
, they mentionned coming in Panama through a different border crossing, just a bit East of Pasao Canoas.
Turns out there is actually 3 border crossing,s and not 2 like I believed.
The main one is Pasao Canoas on CA-1. There is another one at Sixaola on the East Coast, up from Bocas del Toro.
But there is a third one in the mountain, about 50 km in straight line from Pasao Canoas - at Rio Sereno.
I decided to go check it out - purely for research purposes...
I left David around 3pm but unfortunately 2 hours were not enough for me to get there in time. I got there at 6pm. They close at 5pm and reopen at 8am.
There are several ways to get there - the most beautiful is probably through Volcan. On the way up I took the road at Gariche which is very nice but very narrow with multiple ups and downs. This road send me to Volcan but is not as direct.
Since I had to be in Costa Rica the next day and did not want to sleep at the border, I had no choice to get back on the road.
The officer directed me to a new "shorter" road that goes directly to Pasao Canoas. They are building a huge dam in that area and I suspect this is a new road - if you are coming through the border keep your right and you can follow it. It wasn't on my map. This takes you directly in the free zone about 50 feet from the border.
If you are heading to Panama City I would not take this one, I would go left at the border and head toward Volcan.
What the officer had neglected to mention is that the road gets entirely cover with fog as the sun sets.
Driving with my head out of the car at 5 miles/hour with cliffs on each side of the road is not exactly my definition of fun anymore.
I eventually made it back to Pasao Canoas around 9 pm.
If you have the time, I would indeed suggest going through this border. The border area is 100 times more relax than Pasao Canoas.
It will however add at least a day to your itinerary - but it is worth it. The scenery is amazing, everything is green and clean, there is no traffic and really great people.
The good thing about getting at the border so late is that there wasn't any traffic anymore. About 20 minutes later I was back in Costa Rica!
Turns out there is actually 3 border crossing,s and not 2 like I believed.
The main one is Pasao Canoas on CA-1. There is another one at Sixaola on the East Coast, up from Bocas del Toro.
But there is a third one in the mountain, about 50 km in straight line from Pasao Canoas - at Rio Sereno.
I decided to go check it out - purely for research purposes...
I left David around 3pm but unfortunately 2 hours were not enough for me to get there in time. I got there at 6pm. They close at 5pm and reopen at 8am.
There are several ways to get there - the most beautiful is probably through Volcan. On the way up I took the road at Gariche which is very nice but very narrow with multiple ups and downs. This road send me to Volcan but is not as direct.
Since I had to be in Costa Rica the next day and did not want to sleep at the border, I had no choice to get back on the road.
The officer directed me to a new "shorter" road that goes directly to Pasao Canoas. They are building a huge dam in that area and I suspect this is a new road - if you are coming through the border keep your right and you can follow it. It wasn't on my map. This takes you directly in the free zone about 50 feet from the border.
If you are heading to Panama City I would not take this one, I would go left at the border and head toward Volcan.
What the officer had neglected to mention is that the road gets entirely cover with fog as the sun sets.
Driving with my head out of the car at 5 miles/hour with cliffs on each side of the road is not exactly my definition of fun anymore.
I eventually made it back to Pasao Canoas around 9 pm.
If you have the time, I would indeed suggest going through this border. The border area is 100 times more relax than Pasao Canoas.
It will however add at least a day to your itinerary - but it is worth it. The scenery is amazing, everything is green and clean, there is no traffic and really great people.
The good thing about getting at the border so late is that there wasn't any traffic anymore. About 20 minutes later I was back in Costa Rica!
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